General QuestionsGeneral questions related to 1999-2007 Super Duty trucks. If it doesn't fit the other categories, post it here. Gas engine discussion that pertains to all models is allowed. Specific gas engine questions should use the Gas Engines forum.
Hi all. I'm planning on doing my ball joints this weekend and I have the list of parts ready to go in the garage. I've read several writeups and something is still unclear to me...
The writeup on TDS says that a shop should press the seals on for you; but the dealer said that it can easily be done by hand. Can anyone clarify what exactly I will have to do? It will have to be done on a Sunday, so I doubt any shops will be open. I'm not even sure which seal the writeup is talking about.
Thanks for any help!
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-kb
-2000 F250 x-cab sb 4wd; dp tuner f5, magnaflow exhaust, ais intake, john woods valve body; 18k original miles!
-1997 F250 PSD, 4L10, E4OD, 10k mod, Cali shim to 80 lbs, Tymar HPX crossover, K&N air filter, Sonnax Valve & Tricumulator, Banks Transcommand /// SOLD 2004
-1973 Bronco Kenne Bell Supercharged/Fuel Injected 5.0, 700R4, AtlasII, Detroit/ARB w/ 5.13's, Full-Width Axles, 35" MTR's, AGR close-ratio box/pump, Tom Woods l/t driveshafts /// SOLD 2005
It's a large seal in the hub. The dealer has a tool that will press it in to the proper depth. It's a pain to do without the proper equipment. You can make a seal driver out of a 4" plumbing floor flange and 1-1/2 pipe. You will need to grind a bit off the edge of the floor flange to make it fit.
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Here is most of what you need to know on getting your 7.3L started and how to operate it in the cold winter months. These posts use to readily available, but they've been hid in a subforum top of the 7.3 Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain forum. Winter Operation (How I Do It) Hard/No Start? Check here first
The seals can be installed by hand with the proper tool. A press isn't necessary. A 12" long 1-1/4" pipe nipple with a cap screwed on one end and a flange on the other will easily install the seal that goes just ouboard of the u-joint. That's the toughest seal to do. You'll need to whack on the end of the tool with a medium hammer to drive the seal into place.
IMO, R&R'ing ball joint in the knuckles is the hardest part. You need to have the right adapters for the ball joint press. I have an OTC ball joint press and needed to make a couple of extra rings to get the job done. A 2" long piece of 2" schedule 40 pipe, another 1" long piece, and a 3" long section of 2" ID driveline tubing will do the trick.
[ QUOTE ]
The seals can be installed by hand with the proper tool. A press isn't necessary. A 12" long 1-1/4" pipe nipple with a cap screwed on one end and a flange on the other will easily install the seal that goes just ouboard of the u-joint. That's the toughest seal to do. You'll need to whack on the end of the tool with a medium hammer to drive the seal into place.
IMO, R&R'ing ball joint in the knuckles is the hardest part. You need to have the right adapters for the ball joint press. I have an OTC ball joint press and needed to make a couple of extra rings to get the job done. A 2" long piece of 2" schedule 40 pipe, another 1" long piece, and a 3" long section of 2" ID driveline tubing will do the trick.
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Here is a picture of the seal tool that "Kanman" showed me.
I'm going to be doing my ball joints soon also. Let me know how it goes.
Good Luck
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Big E and family of Three
2002 F250 4X4 CREW CAB PSD 4" LIFT
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2004 Keystone Sprinter 297fwbhs 5th wheel
with most of the goodies
Thanks for the photo, that really helps! I know exactly what I have to do now; that is only for driving in the seal then? it doesn't slip 'over' the axleshaft or anything?
__________________
-kb
-2000 F250 x-cab sb 4wd; dp tuner f5, magnaflow exhaust, ais intake, john woods valve body; 18k original miles!
-1997 F250 PSD, 4L10, E4OD, 10k mod, Cali shim to 80 lbs, Tymar HPX crossover, K&N air filter, Sonnax Valve & Tricumulator, Banks Transcommand /// SOLD 2004
-1973 Bronco Kenne Bell Supercharged/Fuel Injected 5.0, 700R4, AtlasII, Detroit/ARB w/ 5.13's, Full-Width Axles, 35" MTR's, AGR close-ratio box/pump, Tom Woods l/t driveshafts /// SOLD 2005
Not many tools to fab, don't know what you have in your area for Boys Toys but KMS Tools up here in Canada sells a 12T shop press for a hundred bucks!! I bought one did my ball joints and U joints and saved a ton of money on labour costs, more than paid for the press. Its definitely an all day job and the first one takes the longest, of course, but the second side went twice as fast once you knew how to do it..........Sherm
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2002 F350 S/C 4 x 4, K & N filter, Rancho R9000s
Can someone direct me to a picture of this seal showing its location? I did the ball joints (with my mechanicuncle) on my truck and don't remember doing anything with new seals??
Did we miss doing something?
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Two ideas when combined together will always make a third better idea!
I don't have to be wrong for you to be right.
Kent
@235K miles @ 071127
>202K miles @ 070828
2001 F350 7.3 PSD SD CC DRW Lariat, 4R100 (replaced at 41k w/rebuilt by dealer), 3.73, FX4 ESOF, Long Box - 3rd CPS. CPS in Glove Box MOD. K&N Filter. 6.0 OTA Cooler. Green to Red Coolant. Water filter. 203º T-stat. Fumoto Valve. Monroe Gasmatic Shocks.
there are two seals if it is a four wheel drive with dual wheels. the inner spindle seal is about 6 inches in diamter and needs a special tool to bang on (press with a hammer). This can weasily be made out of tube and pipe welded together. Since i didnt have that i pressed on with a steel bar and hammer, gently tapping around in 1/8 intervals. This did cause a a slight mushrooming on one side because i went too far. I needed to grind the side of the seal to clean up the edge. Ensure that the plastic thrust washer still spins freely when installed and is perpendicular and not at an angle.
The outer axle seal can be pressed on with your fingers. It mates withthe axle tube.
You can check the inner spindle seal by inspecting it with the wheel turned. If there are any loose parts or cracks it needs replacement. this seal costs about 65 dollars.
i would also get the spindle bearing (small one inch bearing not the hub) and use a pilot bearing puller to remove the old one. I did not know about this bearing and did not replace it at the time. However, mine was in really good condition, so i cleaned it well and re-lubricated it.
Hope this helps. To pull the wheel hubs from the knuckle/spindle i used a 12 inch three jaw puller, some liquid wrench and a hammer and bar to bang the studs from behind (need to remove the track bar and also install a nut to not cause damage to the stud). my left one was really seized and i ended up damaging a nut that costs 8 dollars.
upon reassembly, i cleaned allparts (wheel hub, locking hubs, spindle seal seats .... etc) with a wire wheel, applied anti seize and then reassembled. I also dismantled the locking hub completely, cleaned and relubed everything with a silcon based wheel bearing grease with ptfe additive.
good luck.
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Kincade</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I didn't know about the ball joint press though... This job is really sounding like a PITA now.. I have the too from harbor freight:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335</div></div>
That looks like an offshore knock off of the OTC tool set I mentioned. If it stands the gaff for one or two jobs without taking off a finger [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shocked.gif[/img] it will probably be worth the price you paid. I was able to get the extra rings I mentioned gratis from the plumbing shop and driveline shop. For them, they're just scrap pretty much. They may charge you 50c for cutting them.
The job isn't that bad. The first one will take a little while to figure out how to use the press, but after that, it goes pretty well.
To the poster that had trouble getting the hub/bearing loose, I would have recommended just loosening the nuts on the hub/bearing assy, dousing it with PB, reinstalling the wheel temporarily and using a heavy hammer on the sidewall of the tire. That should jar the assy loose pretty easily and be a lot less work than removing the track bar and hammering on the studs from the inside. In the case where something is stuck, the bigger hammer the better. If a small hammer is used, you just wind up peening over the end of whatever you're hammering on. Voice of experience.
on edit: HERE is the ball joint installation article.
All this work for nothing ! I replaced mine with a piece of rod about 1/2" in diameter, I believe it was also brass. I just took my time and kept tapping while going around the edge, taking care not to tap too hard and get the seal ****ed. Took all of about 5 minutes and did'nt spend a dime. Just make sure both mating surfaces are clean and undamaged.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> reinstalling the wheel temporarily and using a heavy hammer on the sidewall of the tire. </div></div>
Never hit the side if a tire with a hammer. You will distroy the belts.
Wayne B
__________________ 2000 F-250 XLT PSD 4X4 ESOF Auto, SC, LB, Gauges, Mag-HyTech Trans Pan & Rear End Cover, <font color="red"> (((XM))) Inside</font>, ATV Racks w/ Two Kawasaki Prairie 400 4X4's sitting on them, 25' Rockwood TT. Ashburn, Va. Member # 103 Pictures
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Wayne B</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> reinstalling the wheel temporarily and using a heavy hammer on the sidewall of the tire. </div></div>
Never hit the side if a tire with a hammer. You will distroy the belts.
Wayne B</div></div>
Well perhaps he meant (it was implied) to use a 18"x4x4 block as most know with the tire just an inch off the floor.
I am confident there is an amount of force that you can hit a tire with a "heavy hammer" that will not "destroy" any side wall belts.
My real life experience does not have any resulting broken belts in sidewalls of tires.
Just another opinion.
OP should make up their own mind what they comfortable doing.
__________________
Two ideas when combined together will always make a third better idea!
I don't have to be wrong for you to be right.
Kent
@235K miles @ 071127
>202K miles @ 070828
2001 F350 7.3 PSD SD CC DRW Lariat, 4R100 (replaced at 41k w/rebuilt by dealer), 3.73, FX4 ESOF, Long Box - 3rd CPS. CPS in Glove Box MOD. K&N Filter. 6.0 OTA Cooler. Green to Red Coolant. Water filter. 203º T-stat. Fumoto Valve. Monroe Gasmatic Shocks.
), AIS, 
Linear Mode
