1999-2007 General QuestionsGeneral questions related to 1999-2007 Super Duty trucks. If it doesn't fit the other categories, post it here. Gas engine discussion that pertains to all models is allowed. Specific gas engine questions should use the Gas Engines forum.
Originally started this thread in this section because I knew I would have related questions coming up...just didn't know what at that time.
This morning I went to go get my personal belongings out of the truck. I talked to the guy that runs the shop, looks mostly body shop but he said he works on diesels. I was talking to him about maybe water going into the intake and into the motor. He said, " probably so, we didn't have the key to try to start it to find out". I laughed and told him that engine isn't turning over until the glow plugs come out. I got all my personal belongings, chip, batteries, gauge cable, steering column pod... The truck radio was on with no key in the ignition and I could here and "sick" buzzing sound looking down in the engine bay under the fuse box. Gonna put the batteries on my 95 F250.
Talked to the insurance rep today and we originally agreed to move the truck to a holding yard (insurance auction yard) to avoid any more storage frees, but I went back and told her I'm going to have the truck brought back to my house. And I asked if I did any preventative maintenance work if it would affect the trucks value, and she said that as long as it was not damaging the vehicle it would not affect it. I did pull the passenger side IC pipe. First the top side had residual water, and then I pulled the bottom out and water come pouring out Any thought on if chances of 1. just the driver side filling in with water then coming to level ground evened the water level 2. The water being sucked in that far cutting off air supply eventually smothering the engine 2B. Water made it into the cylinder(s) but causing no physical damage 3. Bent/broken pistons.
So... obviously I'm going to pull the valve covers and glow plugs. How do you spin the engine manually? Any special tools needed for that job? I'm also going to pull the turbo, should I just spray it with WD-40, wipe it down and run some fresh oil through it? If any rods are damaged I'm considering putting forged rods in...assuming they are PMR. Is there a good brand or place to buy them?
I'm also thinking about pulling out most of the wiring, PCM, and IDM (if I can get to it). I figure it will all have to be replaced, so I'm gonna get the real mechanic a jump start. My dad planned on visiting me anyways, so if I get the truck back, he's going to pull it back to the guy that does all of our diesel work to work on it.
Any other recommendations on what I should do or have done? I've also considered to upgrading push rods, valve springs, and head studs depending on how far I have to go into the engine.
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2001 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/ Aeroforce Interceptor/ BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/ 4" turbo back straight exhaust / CCV Mod /DIY 6637/ TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40 Tow WITH Whsiper tune, 80 Daily Driver, 100 Race, 140 Extreme, 140 smoke show)//Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Hood/HPx/FRx/GPR switch-Indicator
First vehicle (still driving): 96 F250 XLT 2x4- All factory (injectors & turbo) except straight exhaust. 570k miles
You can turn the engine over with a 1" socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt. Once you get the glow plugs out, you should be able to purge it of whatever may have gotten inside.
Did the tow company charge you for the tow? They should have written it off because of causing the damage they did.
Did the tow company charge you for the tow? They should have written it off because of causing the damage they did.
You ain't kidding. I was shaking my head and mumbling under my breath the whole time. The guy almost seems to want there to be problems with the truck...that's why I'm getting it out of his place and not messing with him again.
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2001 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/ Aeroforce Interceptor/ BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/ 4" turbo back straight exhaust / CCV Mod /DIY 6637/ TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40 Tow WITH Whsiper tune, 80 Daily Driver, 100 Race, 140 Extreme, 140 smoke show)//Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Hood/HPx/FRx/GPR switch-Indicator
First vehicle (still driving): 96 F250 XLT 2x4- All factory (injectors & turbo) except straight exhaust. 570k miles
You can call me crazy but I looked at the pictures and if it was mine, I would do exactly what you said, I would pull the glow plugs, turn the motor over by hand, take the CAC tubes off, unplug all of the electrical plugs in the engine bay and if I could get it in a garage I would put a space heater in front off it and dry that baby out for at least 8 hours. I would change the oil, plug everything up and try to start it, but I would be prepared to buy a PCM and IDM, but at this moment what do you have to lose?
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1989 F-250 4x4 7.3 C-6 315000 miles and counting-sold
2001 Excursion Limited 4x4 7.3 165000 miles-new transmission-12-24-12
2008 F450 XLT CC 4X4 4.88 gears 11' Reading Service Body 168000 miles-too nice to be a work truck-new engine, 5th radiator
2001 F250 4X4 Lariat CC bought April 2011 185000 miles
Holy crap Rammer, sorry for the bad luck. I think you are on the right track.
I think the insurance co gives you a couple options. They should allow you to keep it and should give you the money for the damage amount.
Keep us posted
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03 F350 7.3L Auto CC LB Dually 410's (LS Rear)
I'm an idiot. In my defense batteries were dirty and didn't have much daylight. I was hooking up grounds first. Putting the old batteries back on, a thought hit me. I looked at the other batteries and it was a positive terminal with burn marks on it:banghead: Surprised it didn't blow up!! How can I tell if it screwed them up? They both still have 12+ volts on them.
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2001 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/ Aeroforce Interceptor/ BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/ 4" turbo back straight exhaust / CCV Mod /DIY 6637/ TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40 Tow WITH Whsiper tune, 80 Daily Driver, 100 Race, 140 Extreme, 140 smoke show)//Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Hood/HPx/FRx/GPR switch-Indicator
First vehicle (still driving): 96 F250 XLT 2x4- All factory (injectors & turbo) except straight exhaust. 570k miles
Im following your problem. Sounds like you married your truck, but the same can be said about me.
Have you checked the oil for water yet? How about spinning it over by hand? It can be done without removing the glowplugs, just eat some Wheaties first. If water did get injested, it would fill the cac first, so put that on the list too.
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__________________ Tom
99.5 PS CC 4x4 SRW ZF-6
Triple Pillar Gauges; Fuel pres, Pyro, Boost
AE, Alldatadiy, and half a clue
- AKA "The Big White Truck"
Im following your problem. Sounds like you married your truck, but the same can be said about me.
Have you checked the oil for water yet? How about spinning it over by hand? It can be done without removing the glowplugs, just eat some Wheaties first. If water did get injested, it would fill the cac first, so put that on the list too.
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Its a sentimental value to me. CAC? Think I'll remove the glow plugs before anything. Could I bend a rod by hand by manually turning the engine?
Thanks
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2001 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/ Aeroforce Interceptor/ BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/ 4" turbo back straight exhaust / CCV Mod /DIY 6637/ TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40 Tow WITH Whsiper tune, 80 Daily Driver, 100 Race, 140 Extreme, 140 smoke show)//Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Hood/HPx/FRx/GPR switch-Indicator
First vehicle (still driving): 96 F250 XLT 2x4- All factory (injectors & turbo) except straight exhaust. 570k miles
Oh, I haven't checked the oil yet. Should I just drain the oil and see how it comes out...water would come first?? Should have the truck back at my house tomorrow.
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2001 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/ Aeroforce Interceptor/ BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/ 4" turbo back straight exhaust / CCV Mod /DIY 6637/ TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40 Tow WITH Whsiper tune, 80 Daily Driver, 100 Race, 140 Extreme, 140 smoke show)//Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Hood/HPx/FRx/GPR switch-Indicator
First vehicle (still driving): 96 F250 XLT 2x4- All factory (injectors & turbo) except straight exhaust. 570k miles
Your not going to be able to bend the rods by turning it with a breaker bar.
I would do that before I took the valve covers off.
I was close, I was thinking "cold air cooler"...kinda redundant I guess though.
I did pull the passenger side IC pipe and water did come out. I think there would be water under the valve covers too if it made it that far??
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__________________
2001 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/ Aeroforce Interceptor/ BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/ 4" turbo back straight exhaust / CCV Mod /DIY 6637/ TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40 Tow WITH Whsiper tune, 80 Daily Driver, 100 Race, 140 Extreme, 140 smoke show)//Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Hood/HPx/FRx/GPR switch-Indicator
First vehicle (still driving): 96 F250 XLT 2x4- All factory (injectors & turbo) except straight exhaust. 570k miles
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Any thought on if chances of 1. just the driver side filling in with water then coming to level ground evened the water level 2. The water being sucked in that far cutting off air supply eventually smothering the engine 2B. Water made it into the cylinder(s) but causing no physical damage 3. Bent/broken pistons.
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