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1999-2007 General Questions General questions related to 1999-2007 Super Duty trucks. If it doesn't fit the other categories, post it here. Gas engine discussion that pertains to all models is allowed. Specific gas engine questions should use the Gas Engines forum.

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Old 01-22-2013, 09:12 AM   #76 (permalink)
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Does anyone know of an official article addressing the issue of the crank case vapors seeping through the IC boots causing the oil residue in the engine bay?
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:16 AM   #77 (permalink)
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Go to this website - DTS Articles - Coffee Table Books

And download the Ford publication called - "7.3L Turbocharger Guide"

On page 3 it shows the oil boot and states it is normal.
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:20 AM   #78 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Does anyone know of an official article addressing the issue of the crank case vapors seeping through the IC boots causing the oil residue in the engine bay?
Incompatible materials, nothing more. They just don't hold up over time.
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:29 AM   #79 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Go to this website - DTS Articles - Coffee Table Books

And download the Ford publication called - "7.3L Turbocharger Guide"

On page 3 it shows the oil boot and states it is normal.
Ha, I got that link (in that file I sent to you). Thanks
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:39 AM   #80 (permalink)
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Old 01-23-2013, 04:08 PM   #81 (permalink)
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Re: Totaled-continued

If a rod did bend, would I be able to tell by getting the engine to turn over with the starter?

If not, I think I'm down to where I have to do is pull the VC's. Would Oriellys, NAPA or bumper to bumper have a compression tool? If not, how I build one?

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Old 01-23-2013, 04:15 PM   #82 (permalink)
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Re: Totaled-continued

It would be nice if there was some kind of formula if you knew the current height of one piston, then "this" piston should be this high. Or do the glow plugs stick in at an angle where you couldn't stick something straight to the piston?

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Old 01-23-2013, 04:19 PM   #83 (permalink)
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No - if a rod arched, it would just achieve a lower piston height than before - effectively lowering your compression ratio. For a compression tool, you're going to either need one with an adapter or if you can weld really well, you can convert an old glow plug into an adapter. You'll need a higher pressure gauge than most parts stores carry. You could probably get one in 2 days from Amazon cheaper than you could get one at NAPA anyway.

If I remember right, the glow plug is an M10x1.0 thread, so this kit has the right adapter -
Professional Diesel Direct and Indirect Engine Compression Pressure Tester Gauge 1000psi : Amazon.com : Automotive Professional Diesel Direct and Indirect Engine Compression Pressure Tester Gauge 1000psi : Amazon.com : Automotive

This looks like the same kit, and is cheaper by the time you account for shipping -
Amazon Amazon
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Old 01-23-2013, 04:55 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Re: Totaled-continued

Thanks RT, I ordered that second link. Only 14 for 2 day shipping. So it will be here Friday. Gonna go buy a starter this evening. Then I'll install it tomorrow and start looking at pulling the VCs. Is there an educated way to see which cylinder to test? Or should I just pull all 8 then start turn the engine over? And do y'all think it would be OK to put jumper cables from the 95 F250 to my truck to get juice to it? I could see turning the engine over a lot and running the batteries down quickly. Wouldn't be a problem though if its hooked to a running diesel.

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Old 01-23-2013, 05:35 PM   #85 (permalink)
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Totaled-continued

I always jumper the vehicle I'm testing. You want to pull all the glow plugs anyway- reduces the load on the starter, so test them all. About 10 revolutions per test.


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Old 01-23-2013, 05:50 PM   #86 (permalink)
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Re: Totaled-continued

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I always jumper the vehicle I'm testing. You want to pull all the glow plugs anyway- reduces the load on the starter, so test them all. About 10 revolutions per test.


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Thank you sir.

Also the insurance has changed their tone since my counter offer. They want it to be inspected further to see if there is any internal damage.

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First vehicle (still driving): 96 F250 XLT 2x4- All factory (injectors & turbo) except straight exhaust. 570k miles
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Old 01-23-2013, 07:00 PM   #87 (permalink)
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Rammertide, I'm new here but IMHO it sounds like they just wanted you to take the offer and run. Sometimes you have to fight a little to get a fair shake since the ins. co.s responsibility is to save money for the company, not make you happy. Best of luck.
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Old 01-23-2013, 08:23 PM   #88 (permalink)
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Re: Totaled-continued

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Rammertide, I'm new here but IMHO it sounds like they just wanted you to take the offer and run. Sometimes you have to fight a little to get a fair shake since the ins. co.s responsibility is to save money for the company, not make you happy. Best of luck.
Yea I know. That's why I think they originally deducted $1855 for the inside of the bed being scratched. I fussed and they quickly dropped it to $855... like they are doing me a favor. I typed a full page about their offer and how it was flawed. Then another half page counter offer. 12 pages total I faxed to them. Then another 1 page email to them responding to my FAX.

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First vehicle (still driving): 96 F250 XLT 2x4- All factory (injectors & turbo) except straight exhaust. 570k miles
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:19 PM   #89 (permalink)
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I bet if you were to look at these "comparison vehicles" the are showing they would have similar wear and tear. Even my wifes truck (03 GMC Denali) has the bed scratched, and we baby that one.
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:25 PM   #90 (permalink)
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Re: Totaled-continued

Quote:
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I bet if you were to look at these "comparison vehicles" the are showing they would have similar wear and tear. Even my wifes truck (03 GMC Denali) has the bed scratched, and we baby that one.
Exactly the point I made to them. Among other things such as their pricing software (Autodex??) Gave 3 different prices for my truck. And it had 2 separate places that listed optional equipment. One page gave me $5 credit for cab lights and another page gave me $55. Its also a software targeted for insurance use, not consumer like NADA or KBB.

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First vehicle (still driving): 96 F250 XLT 2x4- All factory (injectors & turbo) except straight exhaust. 570k miles
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