General QuestionsGeneral questions related to 1999-2007 Super Duty trucks. If it doesn't fit the other categories, post it here. Gas engine discussion that pertains to all models is allowed. Specific gas engine questions should use the Gas Engines forum.
My door ajar light stays on all the time. I have made sure that the doors are shut hard countless times. Another weird twist to the story is the dome light will come on whenever I start to stop and will stay on until I accelerate. I finally had to pull the fuse so it wouldnt run the battery down over night. Does anyone have any idea on trouble shooting or has had this problem?
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99 f-250 powerstroke XLT auto 4X4 35" pro comps, Dp-tuner 80 econ tune
It's the switch(es) inside the door latches. You can fix it up by spraying WD40 or PB Blaster into the latch opening in the doors (where it contacts the bolt on the door frame). That should free up the sticking switch.
Mine was having the same problem with the door ajar/dome light (what was really annoying was the key in ignition chime if you didn't have the engine running). For a while, it was an intermittent problem that went away after driving a few miles, but lately it had been on all the time. I figured I would have to pull the door panel off, so I did a search for "dome panel" and found this post (Thankfully)! Sp today I sprayed some lube on the latch, opened and closed the door a few times and problem solved!!! Thanks guys.
i do alot of these. it not that hard to replace them. pull the panel,remove the 10mm bolt holding the window trk. at the rear portion of door. just pulls right out & will be out of the way. unplug the sw. at the inside portion of latch by pushing against it at the plugin till you hear it snap then pull it out of the latch. the trickey thing is getting it alighned in the hole going back & pull against it till it locks back in. we don't lube them here cause we don't want a comeback which it will give you trouble later. you may have to loosen the 3 screws that hold the latch the dorr to get enough room to turn it all the way in to remove it. depends on what model you have & body style.takes me about 15 mins to replace one. the panels are a snap to come off. thats what i like about them.
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i do alot of these. it not that hard to replace them. we don't lube them here cause we don't want a comeback which it will give you trouble later. That's what i like about them.
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Please don't take this the wrong way but I can't see all this simple work and parts costs when a 2 second spray of WD40 fixes the problem. As far as the comeback, I did mine over a year ago and still no problem. Took me less than a minute and cost me about $.05 of WD40.
I ran into this problem with the owner of the marine dealership where I worked as a mechanic. Push/pull light switches usually quit working from corroded contacts. Replacing one usually meant cutting off the spade terminals on the wires and replacing with ring terminals to match the new switch. Not me, I'd remove the switch and disassemble it. Then I'd hit the slider plate and contacts with the wire wheel and reassemble the switch with a dab of anti-corrosion grease. Took a fraction of the time over installing the new switch and I never had a comeback. The owner however, felt that he was losing money on parts even though the labor savings made up for that and I did more billable work than the other mechanics.
My point of the above is that you may be just caught in the middle of an unsuspecting vehicle owner and a dealer that wants to sell switches.
CaptRon
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May 2003 F-350, CC, DRW, 6.0L, 6sp man, LB, Al Wheels, Moon Roof, 52gal tranfer tank. Hitches: Draw-Tite 16K 4X and B&W GN, 8040lbs GVW. Towing 35' Newmar Kountry Star 5th Wheel Camper, 14,000lbs GVW, or Wells Cargo 24' Car Hauler, 12,000lbs GVW.
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but I can't see all this simple work and parts costs when a 2 second spray of WD40 fixes the problem.
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I replaced my door switch this week. I tried the WD-40 trick, and went from having an intermittant problem to a constant one. I finally got fed up and bought the new switch for about $20 from Ford. After I installed it (took me about 30 mins) I was able to get the old switch working. But I had to soak it with brake cleaner to free it up, then hose it down with WD-40 to lube it again. Then I put it in the box for the new switch, and put it in my toolbox. That way I have a spare if my truck or one of the 2-3 friends with SuperDuties has this problem again.
Sorry to all the loyal 7.3 guys, but I traded my '91 7.3 in on a 2002 F250 Ex cab V10 4x4. SCT Xcalibrator2 with tunes by Powerplay Performance. 285/75/16 Toyo M/T's. Took a long time to get used to the ping-pop of a cooling catalytic converter...LOL.
'85 Bronco swapped up to a 302 4bbl from the 300 I6, NP435 4spd, NP208, 32x11.50x15 Radial RVT's, Soon to be 6.9 turbo powered.
86 F350 Cab&Chassis with a dump bed. 2wd 6.9 and 4 spd tranny. No mods to engine.
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but I can't see all this simple work and parts costs when a 2 second spray of WD40 fixes the problem.
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I replaced my door switch this week. I tried the WD-40 trick, and went from having an intermittant problem to a constant one. I finally got fed up and bought the new switch for about $20 from Ford. After I installed it (took me about 30 mins) I was able to get the old switch working. But I had to soak it with brake cleaner to free it up, then hose it down with WD-40 to lube it again. Then I put it in the box for the new switch, and put it in my toolbox. That way I have a spare if my truck or one of the 2-3 friends with SuperDuties has this problem again.
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Yes, it may not work for everyone as well as others, I did my early 99 very shortly after I got it, (Bought in July of 01) it worked flawlessly until I sold it September of 06, and still is working I think, (know the guy that bought it, he has not mentioned any problems yet) So,, guess you take the chance... if it does not work, then a new actuator is in order.
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Jim T.*48* SLAPS Co-Founder, 30.8 yrs RETIRED UAW 6/01/06, Now a full time Technician in the MOANG 12/10/07 My pics! and my New'03 Dually pics!, Charcoal Grey, Black and Grey interior, Black leather seats, Van Turbo/ATS ported housing/WW, Quad "A" pillar pod with Carbon Fiber series AUTO METER Gauges, FUMOTO Valve. BTS BUBBA" /TS 4pos chip, 4" Turbo back straight pipe/stainless 5" tip 131st F/W St.Louis MoAirNatlGuard We're losing the F-15s. BUT BEING HANDED THE KEYS TO THE B-2 BOMBERS at WHITMAN AFB, Near Kansas City, MO.!! We are Lindburghs OWN! Suffering from *PMS,, "Powerstroke mod syndrome"
Thanks once again, TDS. Just got here to post a question about fixing this exact issue. Saw the sticky at the top, and I'll be pickin' up some WD40 tomorrow.
So...since my driverside front door actuator seems to be not working...will this cause my door ajar light to illuminate. Its been on for months and it is getting pretty annoying. Any info is appreciated! Thanks guys.
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2002 Ford SuperDuty CrewCab ShortBed 4X4.
Dark Green/Blue.
6.5" ProComp Explorer All Spring Lift.
Black 17x9 raceline wheels with 37x12.50R17 BFG Mud Terrains.
7"touch screen in dash dvd system, 2 10" Pioneer Thin Mount Subs 2ohm Bridged in Bassworks Channeled Boxes, Planet Audio 1350w 2ohm Amp, Infinity Refrence Front And Rear 6x8's.
), AIS, 
Linear Mode
