1996 F350 dies - Help

[windsqueezer]

Last year my truck died and I had to be towed home. The truck would not start, but would run as long as I was spraying starter fluid in it. I had another running truck, so I started the process of elimination, by swapping parts. PCM, IDM, CPS....no luck. My buddy hooked his Snapon Scanner up to it, no codes, injectors buzzed, everything check out. Business then got really busy, and the truck has been sitting ever since.

Yesterday, I decided its time to get it fixed. Towed it into the shop with a forklift, charged the batteries since it had set for 10 months, still wouldn't start. I fired it on starting fluid, and ran a whole can through it. It died as soon as the can was empty. Five minutes later, I cranked it over, and it STARTED. It ran for 5 minutes and the died. Would not start again. I spray a shot of starting fluid in it and cranked, it STARTED again, idled for a few minutes, and died again.

I just tried to start it, no start. Sprayed starting fluid, it STARTED. Its running right now, but sure it will die again.

Here is the stats: 127k miles, new AD injectors, new SD HPOP, new glow plugs & controller, new batteries, no chip currently installed, new oil and filter, new fuel filter, fuel pressure check while cranking and is OK. HPOP res is full.

TRUCK JUST DIED! Walk back to the shop and cranked it, no start. Gave it a shot of fluid, truck STARTED, just died as I'm typing this.

What should I replace next?

Thanks

[julyer]

checked the ipr?

[ArrowHeadJim]

Thinking out load...Sometimes it just jogs the memory...

What does it take to make this thing run...

Quickly compressing of air to a high preasure (creates heat to burn the injected fuel ), Inject a fine mist of Fuel to burn which creates more preasure to provide power , repeat.

Forget about all the changes you made and go back to the basics.

Power from the batterys: Check

Spin the crank at a desent rpm: Check
( did you notice the tach while cranking. Should move. )
You need enough RPM to get the Hpop to put out enough presure.

The IPR controls the injection presure. Not enough and you won't run.

Did you confirm the high preasure oil with a gauge? You do have preasure right?

Did you check the Fuel quality. Crap in the fuel could plug stuff up. Like your filter or injectors.

Compression: This one is harder to check but maybe needed to rule it out.

Take a look in the intake and turbo for any thing that might lead you to suspect a major engine issue.

You said you use starter fluid to start it. and it runs on the starter fluid. I would say your using an external source of fuel. Which I don't recommend. But I think is implies the possiblility that you are fuel starved. So if you have compression, I would look at the high preasure oils, preasure. The Fuel preasure. The tach while cranking. Is it cold where you are? Are the glow plugs required? if not you could save some amps by disconnecting the relay. That would also help with cranking speed. Stupid stuff like oil level is correct?
You have Fuel?

If none of these help. back track your changes and remake all electrical connections verify your connectors are in good servicable condition. Check even those you didn't disturb. Check your grounding on the electronics too.

I know this is really disjointed but it has been a while since I had to think about a problem like this.

[windsqueezer]

Thanks for the responses.

Julyer - I haven't changed the IPR, but everything checked out on the Snapon scanner.

Jim - I have already covered the basics. Truck was running like a new one and just died while driving 55mph, so things like bad batteries, fuel, compression, etc really don't apply. When we scanned, high pressure oil was in range while cranking, but didn't start.

For some reason, something is not letting the injectors fire, like they are not getting 110V, but the buzz test was fine. Since I can get it to run, with help from starting fluid, I'm guessing the IPR, ICP, or some other sensor must be failing. I plan to change them this weekend. Like I say, I can get it to run, it sounds fine when running, but always dies after a few minutes.

Any other items I should check?

Thanks

[ArrowHeadJim]

I think your on the right track, as far as a lack fueling. If you have HPOP and you don't loose it. You may be lookin at the IDM unit. No wait, you changed it. MMmm...With the scan tool you can monitor the IPC for preasure. And see if it drops out on you.

Sat for 10 months, did ya check the fuel in the bowl. Anything growin in there?

When it did run, could you throttle up?

[ArrowHeadJim]

Did you try the removed parts in the donor truck?

Here's some information I picked up at dieselmans site.
Has some details on the ICP IPR diagnosis.

For no-start concerns check Injection Control Pressure (ICP) sensor readings with a scan tool or pressure gauge (500 min), or with DVOM at pins 87 to 91 (.83volt min) while cranking.
By using adapter fittings and plugs you can isolate and measure each cylinder bank to see if there is a high pressure oil leak in one head, or connect both HP oil pump hoses to the pressure gauge to measure pump pressure. NOTE: The 98.5 and later HP oil lines have special couplers requiring special tool 303-625 to disconnect, and tools 303-627 and 303-628 to connect to the coupler along with a pair of F4TZ-9N332-A elbow fittings to adapt to the HP oil gauge hose.
If isolated pump pressure is low, short break-out-box pin 83 to ground to run IPR valve to full duty-cycle. If the pressure comes up (3600 psi) replace the PCM; if it remains low, remove and inspect the IPR o-rings for damage; a kit is available if they are. If the IPR o-rings are undamaged, replace the IPR valve. If there is still low oil pressure, replace the HP oil pump.
If isolated HP oil pump pressure is 500 psi, or only one bank reads low, remove all the fuel injectors and replace their o-rings using the latest kits P/N F8TZ-9229-AA.
If the concern is a jerky, irratic idle when hot, unplug the ICP sensor (will set a code, causes the PCM to default to a pre-selected IPR duty cycle) to see if it the idle stabilizes. If it does, check the ICP voltage with a scan tool or breakout box at pins 87 to 91 with the sensor plugged in and the key on/engine off. It should be .20-.25 volts. If the base ICP voltage is within specs, replace the IPR; If not, replace the ICP and retest.

[action4478]

ICP readings on a scanner during a no start ,IIRC ,Are what the PCM is calling for , not what you have ..Unplug the ICP sensor ,see if it starts , look for oil leaking from the sensor itself ...

[action4478]

If you dead head both lines to the heads , one with a gauge & one with a cap . The gauge will tell you if the IPR is stuck open ...