7.3L quit running and won't re-start - Diesel Forum

Bux n dux · 12-20-2012, 08:17 PM

I have a 96 f350 with 363,000 miles and it was running fine and died. Had it towed and noticed oil cooler leaking pretty bad. Would this shut truck down. I guess it won't start cause it doesn't have enough oil pressure to fire injectors. The wait to start light is not working either and the 30A fuse seems good. Should I replace whole cooler or just do the o rings and gaskets?

AaronSEIA · 12-20-2012, 08:53 PM

It'd keep the truck from running if it ran out of oil. Did it stumble around for a few seconds or minutes, or was it just lights out? Check the oil level, I bet it's a couple gallons low. Rings and gaskets aren't a bad job. Just need a long bar clamp to pull it all back together.
AaronSEIA

**bugman** · 12-20-2012, 09:19 PM

Get a volt meter out and make sure that you are getting power to one of the small post on the glow plug relay. You would not be the first owner that thought that the #22 fuse was good only to find out that it is really bad. Also like Aaron said check you oil. These trucks need oil to fire the injectors and if it gets low enough the engine will just stop.

Bux n dux · 12-21-2012, 11:04 AM

I just got the truck from work so I'm not sure how it died. I will also check for power at glow plug relay. As bad as the cooler was leaking I think that is the root of the issue. It had oil on dipstick but not even close to safe range.

DaveH. · 12-21-2012, 06:15 PM

If you are low enough on oil, your hpop resevoir may be too low to feed the injectors, you can check it and it should only be 1/4 inch from top, if the cooler is leaking as bad as you say. yes that could be all whats wrong.
If it is low, add oil to fill the reservoir before trying to start the truck when done.

Bux n dux · 12-22-2012, 05:30 AM

I have not looked for the hpop yet. Where is it at?

blageurt · 12-22-2012, 11:16 AM

On top of the engine in the front above the Timing Cover...the square thing is the Resevoir.....there should be a plug on top...look inside it after removing the plug...the HPOP is mounted on the back of it

Bernhardt · 12-22-2012, 11:33 PM

No wts light means no power to pcm. Check fuse, relays in box and input voltage from ignition switch. Is fuel bowl heater connected? If so, disconnect.

Bux n dux · 12-23-2012, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bernhardt

No wts light means no power to pcm. Check fuse, relays in box and input voltage from ignition switch. Is fuel bowl heater connected? If so, disconnect.

Not sure if bowl heater is connected. Is the bowl you are speaking of where the filter sits in? If so, where is the heater connected to it?

Do I need to remove the plastic cover that says powerstroke in order to view all the mentioned items such as pcm or relay? Is is possible that the light is just burnt out in the dash? I hope to rebuild oil cooler tomorrow and then do I need to flush cooling system? I cant seem to see if there is oil in the coolant cause there is no radatior cap just a tank and its hard to tell if its contaminated.

After I replace the cooler orings should I change oil or see if it starts first then do that?

Thanks, Mike

Bux n dux · 12-23-2012, 05:58 PM

Just because the wts light is out, is that enough to cause it not to start? I am thinking that had been out for some time and the oil cooler leak causes it to loose enough oil to keep hpop from firing injectors and keep it from starting. Any chance it would have still ran with the light not working? Just harder to start I assume?

**bugman** · 12-23-2012, 07:07 PM

If the wts light is out odds are it is because of a blown #22 fuse under the hood. This fuse also controls the Fuel Line Heater, 215 Amp Generator/Voltage Regulator, PCM Power Relay Coil, Glow Plug Controller. So if it is blown you are going nowhere.

If you oil cooler was leaking enough oil to keep the truck from starting you would have a gallon of oil under your truck whenever you parked it and the oil would not register on the dip stick.

Bux n dux · 12-24-2012, 07:29 AM

OK fuse #22 30amp is good even switched it out with another just to make sure and still no WTS light. Just cranks and wont start. Tach moves when cranking. Checked relay for glow plugs with a test light (not a volt meter) and with the key on both large posts have power. HPOP level is within 1/2 or 3/4 " from the top when i pulled plug. Oil level is full on dipstick. Now What???

AaronSEIA · 12-24-2012, 09:23 AM

Sounds like it time to find a good scanner and see what it's got going on. Might want to check the tin nut on the back side of the IPR. I've read if that comes off it won't run either. The WTS light could simply be a blown bulb. I'd check out the nut and get a good Ford enabled scanner and check your high presure oil pressure, think you need around 500 psi to fire. Might not hurt to check your fuel pressure as well. You can do that at the schraider valve by the fuel filter. Will need a second person to crank. Should see 45-65 lbs if I remember right.
AaronSEIA

Bux n dux · 12-24-2012, 11:07 AM

thanks aaron. I got the oil cooler off and waiting on the rebuild kit to arrive in three days. In the meantime I tested the glowplug relay and I have just under 12v going in and when the key is on I have 11 or so coming out. That should be enough correct? If ive got power there that means my 30A fuse is good then right?

Bux n dux · 12-27-2012, 02:29 PM

I got the oil cooler orings replaced and I put the cooler back on. (didnt even have to loosen motor mount) that went very easy. I filled the truck with oil and coolant and tried to start. NOTHING! Just cranks. I load tested the batteries and they seem OK not great but OK. Now im wondering if im getting fuel so I drained the bowl and with the top off while cranking I can see fuel shooting in from the bottom. I have no fuel coming out at the schrader when I depress the needel in it. I do have smoke while cranking though so I assume Im getting fuel. Im stumped?