7.3L quit running and won't re-start

[Bux n dux]

I can't wait to try this. I may put mine which may be bad in the running truck first and see if it runs and if not then I know mine is bad.

[themule67]

Originally Posted by Bux n dux

I can't wait to try this. I may put mine which may be bad in the running truck first and see if it runs and if not then I know mine is bad.

Good Luck! Let us know the outcome. Mike

[Bux n dux]

OK, So i took the pcm out of the truck not running and plugged it into a truck that is in running order and the truck fired up but still threw a pcm fault code. It did not keep it from starting though. So now why is my non running truck not starting? I also had a code of PO470 which is exhaust pressure circuit fault. Would this keep my truck from starting? If so what do I need to do to fix this fault?

[themule67]

Hey! bux n dux 0470 will not keep it from running there is a copper or stainless tube coming from the front of the passenger side exhaust manifold mine goes up top to the left of the HPOP oil resevoir tank easy to get to.I have never had to replace the sensor just clean it from time to time.Pull it out I use a small eyeglass screwdriver and scrape the carbon build up out spray it with brake cleaner tap it on a rag and repeat step a couple of times.I have replaced the tube as mine was pretty clogged up when you pull the sensor out look down into the top of tube. Were the part #'s on the PCM's the same if so I myself would try swapping from the running truck to the non running.Over the years from junk trucks I have accrued 4 spare pcm's and 4 idm's (injector driver module) located on your driver side fender always good to have spares just in case.Did you check all electical connections going to sensors up top ICP front of driver side head unplug check inside of plug for oil residue if so spray electrical cleaner and or a little brake cleaner.I did confirm with my mech. the rom error was my pcm.Make sure you have no chaffed wires hopefully someone else will chime in for ideas.Keep posting your findings and hang in there.Mike

[Bux n dux]

Well when I removed PCM and put it in the good truck I got a PCM fault code. I was looking at the pcm and it had duct tape on the back and when removed I found a Banks Big Hoss chip. So i guess the fault code is just because it has a chip on it. If that is the case I only have the exhaust sensor code and the glow plug indicator code and now a new one which is P1711 tft sensor out of range.

I lead myself to believe that the pcm is good only throwing code cause it has the banks.

I checked the icp plug and its full of oil! while taking loose i dropped the yellow watertight gasket in the valley.

Fingers crossed!

[themule67]

Originally Posted by Bux n dux

Well when I removed PCM and put it in the good truck I got a PCM fault code. I was looking at the pcm and it had duct tape on the back and when removed I found a Banks Big Hoss chip. So i guess the fault code is just because it has a chip on it. If that is the case I only have the exhaust sensor code and the glow plug indicator code and now a new one which is P1711 tft sensor out of range.

I lead myself to believe that the pcm is good only throwing code cause it has the banks.

I checked the icp plug and its full of oil! while taking loose i dropped the yellow watertight gasket in the valley.

Fingers crossed!

Hey! bux n dux for sure I would swap pcms or open up the pcm and remove the chip it should just unplug and it will probaly say banks on it as mine said BD bullydog.I promise you it is not uncommon for a chip to fail as I stated in previous message once you remove chip try restarting with fingers crossed.Let us know.Mike

[themule67]

As far as the 1711 TFT transmission fluid temp sensor out of self test range I'm not sure I have never had that code come up maybe someone else might know.Once you try swapping the pcm or removing chip after you hook batt.back up see if that code comes back up.Usually when you disconnect batteries for 15-30min ? that will reset pcm if code comes back up then I would persue it if not then don't worry about it.We got to get the truck running first then move onto other codes.Good Luck! Mike

[Bux n dux]

I tried unplugging the chip and it made no difference. I got a PCM code but not the rom code I think it was a kar or something. Will I have to pull in Ed fender well to get the PCM out of the good truck.

[themule67]

Originally Posted by Bux n dux

I tried unplugging the chip and it made no difference. I got a PCM code but not the rom code I think it was a kar or something. Will I have to pull in Ed fender well to get the PCM out of the good truck.

It was probably KAM (keep alive memory) that will come up when you put a chip or a program in and remove it nothing to worry about.Loosen the 1st few bolts on the fender liner closest to firewall the liner is plastic use a prybar with a rag wrapped around it so it will not scratch the paint slide it in about 6-8" lift up on prybar which will push down on the plastic liner giving you enough room to slide the pcm out.Mike

[themule67]

If you would like you can give me a call at 928-600-4578 my name is Mike Miller

[themule67]

Hey! bux n dux did you clean the oil out of the icp sensor and plug I cleaned mine with brake kleen.I have read on this forum most people will say you need to replace the sensor when oil is found in plug other people say you can just clean it.Mine I was able to just clean and it was fine a new one is $120-150.But,since you have an extra truck you might just try and swap it out with the other one you will not hurt a thing there is an o-ring on the sensor that can get damaged or gets hardened from the heat and cracks.I have a multi-oring kit that you get from the partstore and was able to use one of them.Mike

[bugman]

Just as a WAG can you change out the IDM with the one in the working truck? It is located on the drivers side fender.

[Bux n dux]

Did not have a chance today to switch PCM or ICM. I did inspect and clean the idm and the one on the running truck had a lot of oil in it also so I didnt bother switching. Even after cleaning nothing happend.

The WTS light is now working since I put a new little cluster in from a salvage yard. The light must have been bad. So now I have a no start with a good WTS light so that should rule out some stuff.

I really want to get a reading on fuel pressure since when i bleed off schrader valve while cranking and even after cranking I have no fuel coming out of it. That concerns me a little bit.

This thing is getting one step closer to being a piece of scrap metal.

[Bux n dux]

I wanted to check fuel pressure so I hooked up the gauge at the schrader valve and while cranking I have 0 fuel pressure. So I open the bowl and drain it. Then I depressed the center part of the standpipe in the middle while cranking and I got no fuel in the bowl. At this point I can't get the bowl to fill or even get anything. Is there any testing I can do to see if the fuel pump is bad. It there an electric fuel pump or just the mechanical one behind the bowl? This is a 96 not a new body superduty.

[bugman]

You only have the one pump in the valley and it is a mechanical pump. It sounds like it has gone out if it isn't filling the bowl while you are cranking the engine over.

This thread has the write up the Sam Miller did for it's replacement.