Ok so a while ago I replaced the brake pads on the front of my truck, the truck was sitting due to not running, well now it's running .. I drove it around and noticed my brake light was on and the brakes were not responding unless I pumped them a couple times? I then went back and proceeded to bleed them the passenger side took a bit and then was fine tue drivers side however started letting fluid out as soon as I cranked it loose, and did not stop until I tightened it back up.. I then checked the fluid level and plug on the reservoir. Got in started it and same issue except no brake light, drive it for 20-30 minutes pulled In the driveway and brake light came on??? Now should I be bleeding them a certain way? Is there something I am missing??? Let me know thanks!!!
With the engine off, Pedal should be Rock Hard with NO fade with a proper operating system....Now if the pedal goes to the floor immediately you either screwed up bleeding it ( you somehow got air in the system ) OR you need a new Master Cylinder due to an Internal leak ....Try bleeding it again ( All 4 Wheels ) and if it does the same thing you either have a pinhole leak ( rust ) in the line somewhere or master is baked....Do not buy a CHINA master...buy a American /Canadian one ....and don't forget to bench bleed it BEFORE you connect the lines or you will be bleeding for a long time ....Good Luck
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95 E350 PSD HD Cargo , BB shim , E4OD , B&M aluminium Trans pan , Twin HD coolers , Cat sleeps with the fishes , 3:55 D60FF, EBPV Delete , DP flashed 60 Tow , 140 V idm , Autometer Triple pod , Michelin LTX
1977 F350 Dually Dump , 460 , 429 POLICE heads , 4:56 D70FF, Edelbrock Intake , Holley 850 , MSD IGN , Custom C-6 Trans , Dual Exhausts , Bridgestone "E" Tires
Ok I will try bleeding it again from the rear to the front and see how that goes, I will let you guys know, and also I only by American made for the ford thanks for the help
Ok so I finally got around to bleeding the brakes all of then I noticed that I needed a new caliber on the front passenger side I replaced and bleed the brakes.. I still have a soft pedal until I pump it but when I push down the truck does not stop as it should, the ABS light is on but no brake light, could this be master cylinder or vacuum pump, the master cylinder isn't leaking I looked around the truck and see no leaking lines? What would cause the brake pedal to be hard to push until you hold pressure and it goes to the floor??? Let me know thanks
If pedal is hard with engine running it is either a Vacuum Pump issue or Booster ..So I would test the Vacuum at the tree ( that thing that all vacuum lines come of) beside the booster first ........you should have 17-19 " of vacuum IIRC....if you have good vacuum you need a new booster....If you have low vacuum you need a new pump or you have a major leak in the system...Does the heater/AC control work as they should ? They also rtun off Vacuum as does the 4X4 hubs...
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95 E350 PSD HD Cargo , BB shim , E4OD , B&M aluminium Trans pan , Twin HD coolers , Cat sleeps with the fishes , 3:55 D60FF, EBPV Delete , DP flashed 60 Tow , 140 V idm , Autometer Triple pod , Michelin LTX
1977 F350 Dually Dump , 460 , 429 POLICE heads , 4:56 D70FF, Edelbrock Intake , Holley 850 , MSD IGN , Custom C-6 Trans , Dual Exhausts , Bridgestone "E" Tires
It's 2wd but the heater controls work so no major vacuum leak, I will hook a gauge to the T tomorrow and see what kind of numbers I get also, what is a good place to purchase a booster... Btw every time I fix one problem on this truck I get another so I have yet been able to drive it daily....
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