Hello Everyone:
Here is a new one for ya. I don't think I have ever seen this one on the sight although I can't keep up with them all. My friend and I were replacing injector o-rings tonight and he bumped the dipstick and it felt like it came loose. I went under the truck to ck it out and there is a gaping hole in the side of my oil pan where something has come loose. I have the large nut hanging on the dipstick but cannot find whatever it is on the inside. This does not look good to me but I'm sure if anyone has seen this before they would be here. Any ideas on how to retrieve this piece? Any pics of what I am looking at would be helpful as well.
Thanks for any help and advice.
Troy
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1996 F-350 CC 4x4. Banks stinger plus kit.
Oh man oh man.....
That should say it all!
The part is aluminum and the other half must be inside the oil pan.
You may get lucky and fish it (and the oring) out with a stiff piece of wire, but thats only half the battle, you have to get a new one in there! Some have done it with needle nose vice grips, other wise, the un thinkable... you have to pull the egine and drop the pan to reinstall the part. I guess one other thought, cut a hole in the bottom of the oil pan, get the old parts out, put in new and weld a patch back on. I dunno know, real tough situation!
Best of luck to you, your gonna need it!
Rick H...
__________________ Omaha Metro Powerstroke Diesel Club
Pres Omaha Metro PSD Club Biodiesel Calculator
HIS
96 F250 4x4 auto super cab.
TS 4 Pos Chip, addaLeaf, Boss 8'-6" plow, , DIY AIC, Tymar DP, gutted EBPV, JS IDM, Tymar Intake, 4" Open exhaust, trio a-pillar gauges + 6 overhead gauges. TruCool 4590 Tran Cooler. On board air with dual horns. 4 corner strobes. AC mod with Twist, ISSPro Turbo Temp Monitor, Power Pedel mod, turbo ped mod, Warn Lock-outs, Swamps 175/173 99 IC & GTS Pipe Kit,Snow Performance Water/Meth inj (NOT hooked up!), chicken to use it!
Garmin GPS,Toughbook Laptop, All Mode Ham Radio.
HERS
97 F250 CC SWB 100% stock and going to stay that way! I lied, Shimmed, Tymar Intake. I lied again, kat dead! More lies.. 3" DP, Gutted EBPV, Turbo Pedistal Mod. Dyno'd 263 hp [color:"RED"] RDRCM#20 [/color]
mine just presses in and is held in by a bracket on the valve cover, no nut or anything on the pan.
I am a lil confused on the gapping hole you speak of.
Diesel Rod
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Formerly Diesel Rod.
A '97 F250 with 295K miles, 90 LED's and 5" stacks, among other things....
A '96 F250 Reg cab with 210K miles, Needs to go away. PM me. '86 359 Peterbilt SHORT HOOD. The ongoing "project" it aint pretty but its got a 425 air to air Cat motor .....13 speed Eaton. Corvette Dash, 17 gauges, 8" black stacks, 63" flat top---> 36" sitting here waiting for paint. 1.305 Million Miles.
I don't know what I am doing, I just know I don't have time to do it.
I can't imagine why they would design this like it is. The hole is machined with a tit to hold the inner piece. I would guess it is about an inch and a quarter hole. I am amazed at this one myself.
I was really afraid that the motor would have to come out, is there any way to just pull it up a bit to get the clearance or does it absolutely have to come out?
Now I'm really depressed.
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1996 F-350 CC 4x4. Banks stinger plus kit.
the haynes manual says that you can loosen the motor mounts and jack up the motor until the transmission hits the cab and then you have enough room to remove the oil pan, i dunno if its true but its an idea [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
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96 cc f-350 4x4 Auto 305k d/p,straightpipe,chip,diy tymar
tntknc,
I almost had the same thing happen to me. The nut on the outside was within a couple of threads of coming off. The reason I even found it in time was that oil was pouring out onto the driveway at an idle. Instead of replacing the O-ring, I just simply backed the nut almost all the way off, and put silicone sealer under it and tightened it back up. I noticed another post a week or so ago about someone else's that had come off in the pan. Maybe this is a common problem on these trucks? Anyway, hope you can get it without having to pull the motor. Let us know how it works out, OK?
__________________
'95 XL SuperCab, LWB, 4X4, 204,000 miles, E4OD, 4.10 LS(when it wants to be!), body lift, 305-70-16 Cooper STT's on 10" Eagle Alloy wheels, "Brand X"-inspired home-made open-element air filter, 3" downpipe & 4" straight pipe with 5" stainless tip exiting in front of the rear wheel, 6 pos. TS Performance chip (going to visit T. Wildman soon, I hope), FPR mod, A/C mod, MileMarker manuals, onboard air (York running off the alternator...1 five gallon tank) with dual Grover air horns
2000 Jeep Wrangler Sahara Edition, white w/tan top & interier, 119,000 miles, 4.0L, auto, loaded.....no mods, yet!
[ QUOTE ]
The reason I even found it in time was that oil was pouring out onto the driveway at an idle. Instead of replacing the O-ring, I just simply backed the nut almost all the way off, and put silicone sealer under it and tightened it back up.
[/ QUOTE ]
had the exact same thing happen to me, ford wanted 1300 bucks to fix it, so i also put silicon under it, worked great for about 2 months then started to leak again (musta been a bad bottle of silicon [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]), did it again and holds fine.
good luck
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96 cc f-350 4x4 Auto 305k d/p,straightpipe,chip,diy tymar
Hmmm:
I wish that mine had shown oil on the ground. I have a gravel driveway and never saw oil even when I parked it in a lot. I am usually pretty attentive to fluid under my vehicles. I can see where it has been leaking down the pan though. I guess I just missed this one. I will try to fish it out this morning. Hopefully I won't have to tow it to a stealership. I will let you know what happens.
Thanks again.
Troy
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1996 F-350 CC 4x4. Banks stinger plus kit.
Regardless of what the Haynes manual says, I do not see anyway to get the oil pan down with out pulling the engine.
Good luck fishing!
Rick H...
__________________ Omaha Metro Powerstroke Diesel Club
Pres Omaha Metro PSD Club Biodiesel Calculator
HIS
96 F250 4x4 auto super cab.
TS 4 Pos Chip, addaLeaf, Boss 8'-6" plow, , DIY AIC, Tymar DP, gutted EBPV, JS IDM, Tymar Intake, 4" Open exhaust, trio a-pillar gauges + 6 overhead gauges. TruCool 4590 Tran Cooler. On board air with dual horns. 4 corner strobes. AC mod with Twist, ISSPro Turbo Temp Monitor, Power Pedel mod, turbo ped mod, Warn Lock-outs, Swamps 175/173 99 IC & GTS Pipe Kit,Snow Performance Water/Meth inj (NOT hooked up!), chicken to use it!
Garmin GPS,Toughbook Laptop, All Mode Ham Radio.
HERS
97 F250 CC SWB 100% stock and going to stay that way! I lied, Shimmed, Tymar Intake. I lied again, kat dead! More lies.. 3" DP, Gutted EBPV, Turbo Pedistal Mod. Dyno'd 263 hp [color:"RED"] RDRCM#20 [/color]
Well after a nights sleep and a fresh eye. I went out and looked at the dipstick. The piece on the inside is still attached to the dipstick and the o-ring was still hanging there. I guess I was really tired last night and didn't pull the dipstick out far enough. I have ordered a new o-ring as the old one looks way to big. I hope now that I can get the new one on there and get it secured properly.
At least I have a bit of good news.
Thanks for the help and info.
Troy
__________________
1996 F-350 CC 4x4. Banks stinger plus kit.
I would not start the truck or even slam the door!
I hope it stays put and you can get it changed ok.
Rick H...
__________________ Omaha Metro Powerstroke Diesel Club
Pres Omaha Metro PSD Club Biodiesel Calculator
HIS
96 F250 4x4 auto super cab.
TS 4 Pos Chip, addaLeaf, Boss 8'-6" plow, , DIY AIC, Tymar DP, gutted EBPV, JS IDM, Tymar Intake, 4" Open exhaust, trio a-pillar gauges + 6 overhead gauges. TruCool 4590 Tran Cooler. On board air with dual horns. 4 corner strobes. AC mod with Twist, ISSPro Turbo Temp Monitor, Power Pedel mod, turbo ped mod, Warn Lock-outs, Swamps 175/173 99 IC & GTS Pipe Kit,Snow Performance Water/Meth inj (NOT hooked up!), chicken to use it!
Garmin GPS,Toughbook Laptop, All Mode Ham Radio.
HERS
97 F250 CC SWB 100% stock and going to stay that way! I lied, Shimmed, Tymar Intake. I lied again, kat dead! More lies.. 3" DP, Gutted EBPV, Turbo Pedistal Mod. Dyno'd 263 hp [color:"RED"] RDRCM#20 [/color]
Your new o-ring is going to be much smaller than the one you remove. But after a day, and a little heat, your new o-ring will be the same size as the old. It swells pretty quick.
I had to remove mine a day later to reposition, it didn't work well because is was so swollen. I had to use silicone also. Mine still has a small leak and I can tighten the nut every now and then. I'll have to re-silicone when I run out of thread.
Get some vice-grips on the inside piece before you loose it.
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-Shanon
'96 4X4 CC/ShortBed F-250, Hypermax Downpipe, Four" exhaust, ISSPRO EV Gauges in Rockin S Pod, Bilsteins, Hx Crossover, Open Air Element, Bill's chip (now with TWildman burns), BTS trans, <font color="red">Baby Swamps</font>, Gentex mirror with temp/compass, and Dana 60. My Photos
How are you going to get it together without knocking the rest into the pan?
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 1/1/09 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 7 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet, 1 total paint job.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 4.6 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 16.5 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
Right now I have the outside nut on the inside piece. So for now it won't go anywhere. The dipstick tube is pretty tight on the inside piece so I'm not going to touch that. I might even consider putting a dab of J-B weld on the tube to the inside piece so that it will not come off. Then I am going to try and slide the new o-ring down the tube from the top and very carefully try to position it. I hope that it works. Any other suggestions are very helpful.
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1996 F-350 CC 4x4. Banks stinger plus kit.
Well. So far so good. I put a dab of JB Weld on the dipstick tube and put the new oring on from the top. Unless it is misaligned which it didn't look like it did. It went very well. I did however remove the starter to give myself some more room. Now I just have to put everything back together and get her started to see if it all works now. Thanks for the help everyone.
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1996 F-350 CC 4x4. Banks stinger plus kit.
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425 air to air Cat motor 
.....13 speed Eaton. Corvette Dash, 17 gauges, 8" black stacks, 63" flat top---> 36" sitting here waiting for paint. 1.305 Million Miles.
XL SuperCab, LWB, 4X4, 204,000 miles, E4OD, 4.10 LS(when it wants to be!), body lift, 305-70-16 Cooper STT's on 10" Eagle Alloy wheels, "Brand X"-inspired home-made open-element air filter, 3" downpipe & 4" straight pipe with 5" stainless tip exiting in front of the rear wheel, 6 pos. TS Performance chip (going to visit T. Wildman soon, I hope), FPR mod, A/C mod, MileMarker manuals, onboard air (York running off the alternator...1 five gallon tank) with dual Grover air horns
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