'97 7.3L Won't Start, Cranks Ok, No Wait to Start Light - Diesel Forum

AA3NK · 06-05-2006, 01:13 PM

When you turn the key on, the regular lights come on including Check Engine, sometimes Water in Fuel, and the ABS all seem Ok. The failure to start happened at the same time the Wait to Start light quit coming on.

The engine turns over like ordinary, the tachometer shows indication of turning over and the fuel pump can be heard when the key is on. Also, the voltmeter shows a big draw when the key is switched on, as though the glow plugs are being heated.

This is the first time the engine has failed to start but there have been indications that the cam position indicator may be failing such as cruising along and seeing the Check Engine Light come on and then experiencing a signifcant loss of power. Restarting the engine usually clears up the problem.

Would anyone know if the Wait to Start Light is associated with the cam position module? From what others have posted, there is a likely problem with the cam position sensor but I hate to be a parts changer when there are diagnostic processes available.

Yep, I checked the fuses and the engine oil, all were fine.

This 1997 truck has 147,000 trouble free miles and other than replacing the water pump last summer has been completely reliable. The batteries are the factory installed units as are the brakes! The truck is an HD with floating rear axle but I am amazed that the brakes are in such good condition. The mechanic was not surprised with them.

Thanks for any advice, Bob

MarkEkberg · 06-05-2006, 01:33 PM

Check the fuses under the hood. I bet there is one blown #22 I think. It is the fuel bowl heater. It has shorted out in the fuel bowl and popped the fuse. Only bad thing is that it is the same fuse for the computer.

You can buy a new heater from Ford for less than $50 or just unplug it beside the fuel canister on the drivers side of it.

Shuold get you going.

Forgot to mention the stand pipe in the fuel bowl is a reverse thread. Many people have broken them not knowing.

AA3NK · 06-05-2006, 02:04 PM

Mark,
Thanks for the help. I checked #22, it is a 30Amp big fuse and it was Ok. Also pulled the red lead from the side of the fuel bowl--I am guessing that it is the actuator for the fuel preheater--and had no luck there.

Is the Glow Plug Relay mounted on the front of the fuel bowl on the alternator corner?

Do you know of any places online where I can see mechancial drawing and/or schematic diagrams of the system? I am not confident in identifying the various components.

Any more ideas are welcome, thanks again,
Bob

MarkEkberg · 06-05-2006, 04:22 PM

I had the similiar symptoms before i found this site. Found a local tech that knew many of my friends so I figured I would not get screwed.

The connectors on top of the valve covers decided to smoke themselves. In dong this and in me driving until it would not run resulted in a smoked computer and IDM. I have no way of knowing if I was screwed or not, but maybe this has happened to you?

You can easily check the three of the valve cover connections. The one under the intake plumbing is a bit harder to get to. See if they are burnt/melted/damaged.

Partsman · 06-05-2006, 04:37 PM

If you have a chip, pull it before you do anything else.

Fleagle · 08-13-2008, 08:04 PM

I have the same problem with my '97 7.3 PSD. Cranks normal, no WAIT TO START light, engine will not start.

Checked all fuses, (even used meter to be sure there was continuity between the fuse blades), and swapped #1 and #4 relays. No joy.

I do not see a happy ending to the AA3NK's thread. Any updates or suggestions would be appreciated.

blageurt · 08-13-2008, 10:36 PM

Get a scanner and monitor ICP pressure while cranking . . . If you have less than 500 psi it will not start. Maybe IPR is stuck or nut is loose . Also check fuel pressure . Might have HPOP system leak. What Mark said is also a big possibilty . IDM's can go just like that . I hope not for your sake .

fireguywtc · 08-13-2008, 11:59 PM

Try this real quick for a trouble shoot. I had a 97 that did the same thing one time and had it towed. Cranked fine, no start. All that was wrong with it was the batteries where going dead. Tech. said it needs a certain amount of amps to turn on the injectors, if the batteries are too weak it will still crank but not fire. If you hook up a battery charger to it and it starts thats likely your problem. Not sure about the wait to start light though since I was starting it in warm weather at the time. Good luck!!

91diesel · 08-14-2008, 06:38 AM

10.5 volts to be exact

Rogerta · 09-02-2008, 04:56 PM

Same sort of problem with my 97. It took a few more cranks than the norm the other day. Started then quit right away. Started a bit hard again, then ran fine to work. Then wouldn't start at all when it was time to go home. CPS is fairly new and tach shows 200 or so rpm's while cranking. Batteries are good. I figured it was the computer so I got a rebuilt and replaced it. Still no go. It shows no codes. Checked all the fuses too. Fuel bowl is full?

**action4478** · 09-02-2008, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AA3NK

When you turn the key on, the regular lights come on including Check Engine, sometimes Water in Fuel, and the ABS all seem Ok. The failure to start happened at the same time the Wait to Start light quit coming on.

The engine turns over like ordinary, the tachometer shows indication of turning over and the fuel pump can be heard when the key is on. Also, the voltmeter shows a big draw when the key is switched on, as though the glow plugs are being heated.

This is the first time the engine has failed to start but there have been indications that the cam position indicator may be failing such as cruising along and seeing the Check Engine Light come on and then experiencing a signifcant loss of power. Restarting the engine usually clears up the problem.

Would anyone know if the Wait to Start Light is associated with the cam position module? From what others have posted, there is a likely problem with the cam position sensor but I hate to be a parts changer when there are diagnostic processes available.

Yep, I checked the fuses and the engine oil, all were fine.

This 1997 truck has 147,000 trouble free miles and other than replacing the water pump last summer has been completely reliable. The batteries are the factory installed units as are the brakes! The truck is an HD with floating rear axle but I am amazed that the brakes are in such good condition. The mechanic was not surprised with them.

Thanks for any advice, Bob

If you are running a chip , make sure it didn't come loose ,,make sure the key is off before messing with it ,,,If you have power to the PCM ,,(all fuses good )Ect ..

May need a PCM

Check the small relays in the power distibution box under the hood ,,switch them around ,,make sure they are properly seated ,,,

Rogerta · 09-07-2008, 06:40 PM

Update on my issue.......Two injectors had bad o-rings. So the high pressure oil was blowing buy. Not enough pressure to operate the injectors. Now what do I do with my extra PCM? Hang on to it I guess.