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Power Strokes 1994-1997 General Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the Power Stroke engine in 1994 through 1997 models.

       
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Old 06-17-2009, 11:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Another No Start

I have a 96 that wont start. Ran fine no issues next day it wouldn't start. I have been reading on causes and made a list of things to check . The oil level is good. The HPOP is full. Installed new NAPA fuel filter and cleaned housing. Cleaned screen and checked fuel pressure at schreader valve(75PSI). Checked #22 fuse 10.7v while cranking not blown. Checked #9 fuse not blown. Turning the key on the CEL light flashes and the WTS lights for about 5 sec. There is no white smoke while cranking and no change when unplugging ICP. Batteries are 5 months old and fully charged (1000 CCA Each).The tach reads 200 rpm while cranking. The only code reader I have available wont read all codes, but shows codes 603, 606, 196. Is there something I missed that would be easy to check please let me know? How can I check the PCM and IDM? Any info or suggestions would be welcome. I have learned a lot about this truck on here. Thanks Tim
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Old 06-18-2009, 06:34 AM   #2 (permalink)
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could check the wiring to the ipr as well as the tin nut on it.

did you also try swapping the #1&2 relay for the #3&4
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Old 06-18-2009, 07:56 AM   #3 (permalink)
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196 expected with a cold engine. 603 and 606 and flashing ce light are all possible pcm failures if battery connections and grounds are good. like said, check ipr nut and 12vdc at connector, koeo. If you have a chip, disconnect. Do you know anyone with a psd that will let you borrow their pcm?
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Midnight black '94 * F-250 * 4x4 * ZF-5 * 4:10 * cc/lwb * RDS Single Shot Stage I's* TDP 6pos chip * BDP electric fuel * BDP 1.0 exhaust housing * Hypermax 3x4" dp * Authentic Tymar intake* 7.3 Intercooler * gutted ebpv * 4" exhaust & 5" tip * LUK clutch * A-pillar pod w/ Auto Meter NV boost, pyro and water temp gauges * reverse dash lighting and hvac controls * Optima yellow top batts D75/25, both on the right side * HPO X-over mod * manually controlled gp's * cruise control mod * add-a-leaf (front) * AC mod
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Old 06-18-2009, 04:28 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I swapped the relay, no start. I will check volts and make sure nut is tight. Can a PCM be tested out of truck? Thanks for the help, Tim
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Old 06-18-2009, 05:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Sounds like the IPR is stuck open ....
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Old 06-18-2009, 09:36 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by action4478 View Post
Sounds like the IPR is stuck open ....
Can be verified with a gauge while cranking, hpo needs to be verified anyway.

Rick, stuck ipr will flash the cel?
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Midnight black '94 * F-250 * 4x4 * ZF-5 * 4:10 * cc/lwb * RDS Single Shot Stage I's* TDP 6pos chip * BDP electric fuel * BDP 1.0 exhaust housing * Hypermax 3x4" dp * Authentic Tymar intake* 7.3 Intercooler * gutted ebpv * 4" exhaust & 5" tip * LUK clutch * A-pillar pod w/ Auto Meter NV boost, pyro and water temp gauges * reverse dash lighting and hvac controls * Optima yellow top batts D75/25, both on the right side * HPO X-over mod * manually controlled gp's * cruise control mod * add-a-leaf (front) * AC mod
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Old 06-19-2009, 08:53 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Rick, stuck ipr will flash the cel?
The CEL comes on for a split second just from turning the key from off to start , I took that as normal ...

Like you said , a guage is needed to verify HP oil pressure ...
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Last edited by action4478 : 06-19-2009 at 08:56 AM.
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Old 06-19-2009, 11:31 AM   #8 (permalink)
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The nut is tight on the IPR and 12.7 volts at connector with key on. The truck is stock , no chip. What is the best way to check HPOP pressure?
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Old 06-19-2009, 12:37 PM   #9 (permalink)
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If you use a guage ,,unhook one of the lines from the pump & attach the guage to the line note pressure ,,,

Then ..re attach the line to the head & do the same thing with the other head , note pressure

If need be , un hook lines to both heads ,attach the guage to one ,& cap the other ,,note pressure ,,this will dead head the pump itself & tell you if the IPR is stuck open (no pressure)

The other tests are mainly for injector o rings ,,may just need to verify IPR ,,if presure there , then move on to the heads ...
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Old 06-20-2009, 06:19 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I checked the pressure at the plug in the head. It has 3750psi right side and 3700psi left.
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Old 06-20-2009, 10:05 PM   #11 (permalink)
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in your oe post, when you said the ce light flashes, do you mean continuously? or just once when the key is turned from off to the run position?
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Old 06-20-2009, 11:25 PM   #12 (permalink)
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The CEL comes on then shuts off. Long crank time does not turn light on. I think the next thing is to check the valve cover harnesses. Checking glow plugs now. Thank for any ideas , Tim
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Old 06-21-2009, 04:47 AM   #13 (permalink)
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does the cel turn on with the key on then immediately shut off without trying to start the engine? if so, pcm shutting down. 5 volt reference from pcm to input sensors could be grounded/shorted to ground. unplug each input and see if change in cel light status. if light stays on, attempt to start engine with sensor(s) unplugged. pcm will set default parameters and engine should start. what i seen before is the exhaust back pressure sensor shorting internally causing a no start by shorting 5 volt reference to ground and pcm shuts down.
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Old 06-21-2009, 06:26 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I disconnected each sensor one at a time. The CEL will stay on with the upper connector at the peddle disconnected. Truck still will not start with it disconnected.
No shorts found in UVCH using ohm meter. Glow plug #4 shows an open. What should the ohms be though the injectors.
Thanks Tim
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Old 06-22-2009, 08:17 AM   #15 (permalink)
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A good gp should read around 5 or 6 ohms. You could lose a third or maybe half of your gps and it should still start, if not, you would see alot of smoke, which you are not seeing.

Have you pulled your idm to check for water/moisture yet?

Reread your op, you spoke of a fuel filter change and fpr maintenance. Was your truck running before you done that?
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Midnight black '94 * F-250 * 4x4 * ZF-5 * 4:10 * cc/lwb * RDS Single Shot Stage I's* TDP 6pos chip * BDP electric fuel * BDP 1.0 exhaust housing * Hypermax 3x4" dp * Authentic Tymar intake* 7.3 Intercooler * gutted ebpv * 4" exhaust & 5" tip * LUK clutch * A-pillar pod w/ Auto Meter NV boost, pyro and water temp gauges * reverse dash lighting and hvac controls * Optima yellow top batts D75/25, both on the right side * HPO X-over mod * manually controlled gp's * cruise control mod * add-a-leaf (front) * AC mod

Last edited by 94strokerace : 06-22-2009 at 08:19 AM. Reason: Additional questions
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