This started yesterday but was intermittent so I ignored it. I have a problem with my engine running very rough and it has just a little blue smoke at idle and then when you rev it up to about 1300, it smooths out a little but bluish smoke is still there. Exhaust doesnt smell at all like burning oil. If i get near my tymar air filter, I can hear a somewhat of a chuff/woof but its not either a woof or a chuff. If i get inline with the tail pipe, I can hear like a pinging. I cant hear anything out of ordinary on top of the engine. Get this, at higher rpms it runs like it has a TINY tiny miss but is better than at idle. I turned my AIC on and let it idle at 1850 rpm and there is pretty much no chuffing of woofing at the air filter. I test by putting my ear right up on the filter element.
It got REAL bad and now its seeming to let up, there would be a light banging like the downpipe was hitting something, sorta like a slap. It got real bad today while driving and truck ran REAL rough, it hasnt gotten to normal since that but its not that bad. It still idles rough but the "slapping" is not there.
I was thinking I have a bad exhaust/intake valve(s) but there are things that make it seem so and things that make it not seem so. If one of my UVCH wires was bad, would it cause blueish smoke? Is it possible that its a messed up sensor somewhere? I changed the PCM with a good one without a chip and it did the same thing. Im going to let it cool down and see if it still does it. This seems to be an intermittent problem except for today. It went away yesterday and for most of this morning.
shoot me,
anthony
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1994 F-250 PSD, 280+k and still strong, 2wd, zf5 close-ratio, 4.10 rear, Tymar intake, Valeo SMF, 205* T-stat, DIY Aux idle control,shot the cat, dual trucker antennas, 5600 pounds, matching autometer ultra lite boost and pyro. DIY stage 1's, ts 6 pos chip (stock anti-theft 50 75 100 140), excursion HFCM fuel pump on its way
Nicknamed the american bear http://community.webshots.com/user/91diesel **91diesel AKA anthony2010**
If you are hearing a woof/poof from the air intake and a pinging from the exhaust, is it possible you have a bent fin on your turbo wheel? Blue smoke could also be oil in the fuel system. Have you had it scanned?
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Travis
1996 Extended Cab Long Bed XLT, 4x4, 3.55LS, Tymar Intake, Diamond Eye Performance 4" Exhaust, Meyer C-8 Plow, Timbren Load Levelers
Case 1845c Uni-Loader
PowerStrokes And Duck Hunting-It Doesn't Get Any Better
I have a scan gauge, but its not very reliable and doesnt always work but according to it there are no codes. I had batteries off and it didnt change anything. I recently (sunday) rebuilt the turbocharger, maybe something is hitting, im going to take the intake y off in a few minutes and run it. Could it be the seals in the turbo leaking oil? I replaced them. I will check for oil in fuel in a few minutes too and report back.
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1994 F-250 PSD, 280+k and still strong, 2wd, zf5 close-ratio, 4.10 rear, Tymar intake, Valeo SMF, 205* T-stat, DIY Aux idle control,shot the cat, dual trucker antennas, 5600 pounds, matching autometer ultra lite boost and pyro. DIY stage 1's, ts 6 pos chip (stock anti-theft 50 75 100 140), excursion HFCM fuel pump on its way
Nicknamed the american bear http://community.webshots.com/user/91diesel **91diesel AKA anthony2010**
Its confirmed, burnt intake valve. Took the y off and started, passenger side manifold has loud chuffing.
How bad would it be for me to replace just the bad valve (OR VALVES) and the guide (OR GUIDES)? I dont have a lot of money, I have done heads before and I have the tools and know-how to do it. I just want this thing to run, not going for performance here. And where the heck do I get a valve for this thing? Are the guides something you press in or what, assuming my guides are bad.
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1994 F-250 PSD, 280+k and still strong, 2wd, zf5 close-ratio, 4.10 rear, Tymar intake, Valeo SMF, 205* T-stat, DIY Aux idle control,shot the cat, dual trucker antennas, 5600 pounds, matching autometer ultra lite boost and pyro. DIY stage 1's, ts 6 pos chip (stock anti-theft 50 75 100 140), excursion HFCM fuel pump on its way
Nicknamed the american bear http://community.webshots.com/user/91diesel **91diesel AKA anthony2010**
Tear off the head and take the head to an engine shop to do all valves in that head. Better off doing all than the one valve since you already have it off. If you do it your self, you will need a valve clamp to squeeze the spring to get thoes little clips off to remove the valve.
And I know the feeling of not having a lot of money since my truck took it all in its repairs and school.
__________________ 1997 F350 4door 2wd long bed white 7.3L Powerstroke, E4OD, C5 4:10LS diff 326K miles on org engine and been rebuilt again
Against your guyses better judgement, i think im gonna do pushrods only for now, all the valves are free moving. There were 3 pushrods that were bent, im going to replace all 8. I had 3 guys say I should just TRY it first before I go through all the other work.
So whether its for better or for worse, thats what im gonna do.
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1994 F-250 PSD, 280+k and still strong, 2wd, zf5 close-ratio, 4.10 rear, Tymar intake, Valeo SMF, 205* T-stat, DIY Aux idle control,shot the cat, dual trucker antennas, 5600 pounds, matching autometer ultra lite boost and pyro. DIY stage 1's, ts 6 pos chip (stock anti-theft 50 75 100 140), excursion HFCM fuel pump on its way
Nicknamed the american bear http://community.webshots.com/user/91diesel **91diesel AKA anthony2010**
Against your guyses better judgement, i think im gonna do pushrods only for now, all the valves are free moving. There were 3 pushrods that were bent, im going to replace all 8. I had 3 guys say I should just TRY it first before I go through all the other work.
So whether its for better or for worse, thats what im gonna do.
Make sure the motor is clocked properly before torquing the rockers ...
IIRC ....The mark on the balancer needs to be lined up with the pointer on the CPS ....
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Rick.....
97 F 350 ...Lucky 13 "Most stuff's just stuck & needs hittin with a hammer"....
Supporter/End user of ShiftSolutions THE CURE E4/4R Trans Control. Helping Cancer patients and families
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I did that on my old IDI when I did the heads...do you have to turn it over so that each pushrod is at the lowest point when you torque each rocker? I know the manual I had didnt say I had to make sure each one was down when torqued.
and whats the torque on the rocker bolts?
I just bought 16 new pushrods, I will probably end up replacing the other side sometime during the winter when im all snowed in and have some time. its only a hour job..
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1994 F-250 PSD, 280+k and still strong, 2wd, zf5 close-ratio, 4.10 rear, Tymar intake, Valeo SMF, 205* T-stat, DIY Aux idle control,shot the cat, dual trucker antennas, 5600 pounds, matching autometer ultra lite boost and pyro. DIY stage 1's, ts 6 pos chip (stock anti-theft 50 75 100 140), excursion HFCM fuel pump on its way
Nicknamed the american bear http://community.webshots.com/user/91diesel **91diesel AKA anthony2010**
You want the motor clocked as Rick pointed out to avoid "lifter jacking". I'm guessing that when the motor is in this position, the residual oil pressure to the lifters is relieved. Rocker bolts are 20 ft-lbs. Cheers!
Against your guyses better judgement, i think im gonna do pushrods only for now, all the valves are free moving. There were 3 pushrods that were bent, im going to replace all 8. I had 3 guys say I should just TRY it first before I go through all the other work.
So whether its for better or for worse, thats what im gonna do.
Keep us posted and hope luck is on your side and you don't have to pull the head.
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Tom
95 F250XL PSD SuperCab AUTO E4OD TEE5 code, Diablo Delta flip chip, 3"Downpipe, Vegistroke V3 , HX Mod, Glowplug Bypass switch, JVC MP3 Player, Tymar Intake, Sonnax valve and Tricumulator springs, 4R100 Tranny Pan W\drain plug, Autometer Lunar Boost, Tranny Temp and Pyro gauges in a A-Pillar Pod, Gutted EBPV, Magnafine ATF Filter, Tymar Coolant Filter, Crystal Headlights, AC Mod, OilGuard Bypass, BABY SWAMPS!! 288k and still Smokin
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1997 F350 4door 2wd long bed white 7.3L Powerstroke, E4OD, C5 4:10LS diff 326K miles on org engine and been rebuilt again
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