I had my ball joints replaced about 1.5 years (30000 miles ago) and the drivers side is binding up on me. It's bad enough that I cannot steer without putting great pressure on the steering pump whenever I turn right into a parking space, or turn right out of a drive. All other times, it creaks and squeaks with a low tone whenever I turn the wheels in either direction. And it pops loud occasionally when pulling into lots or from a stop.
The ball joints were pressed in with those caster camber sleeves.
Is there anyway to grease these things? I cannot find any zerks.
I sometimes wonder if the sleeve hasn't fused itself to the ball joint and if the sleeve itself is grinding in the knuckle.
Does it just need replacing?
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Hey Travis. Yes the ball joint needs to be replaced if the symptoms you describe are in fact being caused by the ball joint. Jack up that wheel and remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle. try to swing the tire to the left and right. If it is real stiff then the problem is either the ball joint or axle u-joint (4x4 models only). I would never replace with a balljoint that can not be greased. I would use Moog, or Perfect circle brand parts. You maybe need to find a better shop since they installed IMO inferior parts. I am from the Chicago area, I bring all my front end work to B-Line in Elgin. I have also heard of good things about Addison wheel alignment.
disconnect the tie rods--jack up the front and put on axle stands--then turn to see what is bound up for sure--and if its the balljoint--replace quickly--before something happens you dont need--and how come the balljoints dont have a grease zerk??? make sure the replacements do--dont need to be greased all the time--but occasionally--
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94 f250 idi turbo sc e4od alum fac rims 149,289 --dana 60 frt with posi--10.25 rear w/posi--shouldnt get stuck!! ats turbo 3" parts on--what a diff from stock turbo!!!!!--- also 96 F250 with 305,000 is fixed!!-- 7.3 rattler-also 85 6.9-needs new engine!! tired!!
I agree to get zerk fittings on the joints, though it's almost pointless to get a greasable top joint. You can't leave the zerk on the top joint without it getting ripped off by the axle, and you have to take the whole thing apart to put the zerk back on to grease it. How often will that happen?
I've never heard of a ball joint causing that kind of bind. Mine were SHOT, I mean, fell apart when I took it apart, but it steered fine. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
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Black, '96, F-350, 4x4, Day Cab.
Black/Silver, '97, F-350, 4x4, CC Short Bed. DzlJim.com for some redneck engineered projects.
FYI, I have NOT done balljoints on my PSD, however, I just went through the front axle on my Jeep and the best price I could find was at www.rockauto.com
With shipping included, I saved $50 over what I could get them at my local Napa. I purchased greasable Moog parts - with standard shipping, they got to my house in two days. Sadly though, their price on filters ain't the greatest. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]
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96 F-250 SC 2WD 5spd
Added TS Performance 6 pos. chip and a few exhaust mods.
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I've never heard of a ball joint causing that kind of bind. Mine were SHOT, I mean, fell apart when I took it apart, but it steered fine. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
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My experience too. Normally they get sloppy. I suppose if it was bad enough tho it could cause other components to bind up.
Get both top and bottom Ball joint's with Zerk fittings. Get a 90 degree fitting for the top and file it till it clears the front axle U-joint. It will have enough clearance. I have done this numerous times. Hope this helps.
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