Last night I went to go to the store and my truck cranked slow, batteries were at 11.5v and got 5v when cranking, today i charged them up and cleaned the terminals, and fired right up. when i was putting the cables back on, I got a good size spark, looks like something is draining them when sitting. Are there any common issues with these trucks. Im thinking of pulling one fuse at a time tell the spark goes away. Or is there a more simple way to find the problem? Any ideas out there?
1964 F350, 24v 5.9 Cummins not even close to broke in, New Nv4500, Turned Np205, Custom Dana 70s Front and Rear, Two 20000lb PTO winchs, 14' lift, 49" iroks!!, 97 PSD acc. with wire harness swap, 87 F350 frame (still sits in shop with fresh coat of JD green paint "Built Not Bought" 0 miles,
That just may be it, i have had some problems with it in the pass, i just replaced the gp's but not relay, i will unhook it and see, i think i will replace it anyways so when it does get real cold out i can make it to school. more then likely it was the same one that it rolled out of the line with back in 94. May just have something to do with that melted gp wire.
1964 F350, 24v 5.9 Cummins not even close to broke in, New Nv4500, Turned Np205, Custom Dana 70s Front and Rear, Two 20000lb PTO winchs, 14' lift, 49" iroks!!, 97 PSD acc. with wire harness swap, 87 F350 frame (still sits in shop with fresh coat of JD green paint "Built Not Bought" 0 miles,
Still cant find it? unhooked every thing i could think of and pulled every fuse! when it stops raining i will hook my cables back up and see how many volts i have and keep a eye on it to see how fast it goes down. any more ideas out there?
1964 F350, 24v 5.9 Cummins not even close to broke in, New Nv4500, Turned Np205, Custom Dana 70s Front and Rear, Two 20000lb PTO winchs, 14' lift, 49" iroks!!, 97 PSD acc. with wire harness swap, 87 F350 frame (still sits in shop with fresh coat of JD green paint "Built Not Bought" 0 miles,
1964 F350, 24v 5.9 Cummins not even close to broke in, New Nv4500, Turned Np205, Custom Dana 70s Front and Rear, Two 20000lb PTO winchs, 14' lift, 49" iroks!!, 97 PSD acc. with wire harness swap, 87 F350 frame (still sits in shop with fresh coat of JD green paint "Built Not Bought" 0 miles,
To check amp draw you would have to install either a gauge or multimeter in between one of the batts and the cables. How old are the batts? Might be worth just getting them load tested to see if they're any good.
1964 F350, 24v 5.9 Cummins not even close to broke in, New Nv4500, Turned Np205, Custom Dana 70s Front and Rear, Two 20000lb PTO winchs, 14' lift, 49" iroks!!, 97 PSD acc. with wire harness swap, 87 F350 frame (still sits in shop with fresh coat of JD green paint "Built Not Bought" 0 miles,
I would start by disconnecting the alternator to eliminate a bad diode and power going to ground in it. Then there are two fuses under the hood number 1 witch is a 20 amp fuse for the audio power and then the last one is number 9 witch is a 20 amp maxi for the PCM. Those should be the only two that should draw power with the key off I believe. Also how good are your batteries? If they are getting low on power and if one is going bad they could be your problem.
Jim
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96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages,Dark Toumaline, add a leaf,Dale's TYMAR,and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter with coolant eye
I know my batteries are on there way out but i don't think it should be drawing 175mA i would think around 20mA. I was also thinking the alternator, i will give it a try and see what what happens, I would like to try to make my batteries last 10 more months tell I go home since I have a good set sitting on some battery tenders but dont think it will happen. If i do get a set i was thinking of getting some gel cells, would it be worth it? should I get red or yellow tops? I have a winch i use some time but no very often.
1964 F350, 24v 5.9 Cummins not even close to broke in, New Nv4500, Turned Np205, Custom Dana 70s Front and Rear, Two 20000lb PTO winchs, 14' lift, 49" iroks!!, 97 PSD acc. with wire harness swap, 87 F350 frame (still sits in shop with fresh coat of JD green paint "Built Not Bought" 0 miles,
Your batteries should have a couple hundred amp-hours of storage capacity. Let's simplify, and say they only hold 100 amp-hours (they actually hold a lot more). Now let's say your current drain is a full amp (actually yours is a lot less). The batteries should power the 1 amp load for 100 hours...but apparently they become discharged overnight.
So the batteries have a) a storage capacity issue (sulfated) and/or b) an internal short, inside the battery itself, which is discharging the battery. Either scenario occurs frequently, batteries have a finite life.
edit: this link has a good explanation of battery ratings and other good info Deep Cycle Battery FAQ
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'94 F250 supercab 4x4, original owner, 4.10LS, shimmed FPR, Tymar air intake, DP Tuners 80 Econo burn, VDO gauges (boost,pyro, outside temp), Ford digital AIC, DPPI downpipe, gutted EBPV, add-a-leafs front and rear, Monroe Reflex shocks, Milemarker 449SS hubs, towing 25' Mallard travel trailer
Last edited by nashvillebill : 09-01-2008 at 12:02 PM.
175mA is not much of a draw. I am thinking you have at least one bad batt.
One thing that seems to always draw is the keyless module. That could be drawing more, but I would look at the batt's fist.
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 8/1/08 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 6 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 3.0 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 14.8 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
how many volts should they have just sitting, they are gel cells, they have 12.50v and droped .03v in a day unhooked and droped .10v in a few hours hooked up
1964 F350, 24v 5.9 Cummins not even close to broke in, New Nv4500, Turned Np205, Custom Dana 70s Front and Rear, Two 20000lb PTO winchs, 14' lift, 49" iroks!!, 97 PSD acc. with wire harness swap, 87 F350 frame (still sits in shop with fresh coat of JD green paint "Built Not Bought" 0 miles,
1964 F350, 24v 5.9 Cummins not even close to broke in, New Nv4500, Turned Np205, Custom Dana 70s Front and Rear, Two 20000lb PTO winchs, 14' lift, 49" iroks!!, 97 PSD acc. with wire harness swap, 87 F350 frame (still sits in shop with fresh coat of JD green paint "Built Not Bought" 0 miles,
if it still goes down---disconnect the hot wire to the alt at night---and see where the batts are in the morning---as that would point to the bad alt diode spoken of--those diodes can short three ways---
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94 f250 idi turbo sc e4od alum fac rims 149,289 --dana 60 frt with posi--10.25 rear w/posi--shouldnt get stuck!! ats turbo 3" parts on--what a diff from stock turbo!!!!!--- also 96 F250 with 305,000 is fixed!!-- 7.3 rattler-also 85 6.9-needs new engine!! tired!!
F250HD, Single Cab XLT, 7.3 PSD, 5 Speed, 33in tires, level kit, straight piped! 12000lb warn, Canada made, 234000miles w/97 parts truck
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