I can only go about two months between thorough cleanings of the battery terminals. They are constantly building corrosion on the wires or bolts.
I have put baking soda on them many times and they should be neutralized of any acid sitting on them.
Is this corrosion an indication of something going on like a short or other similar problem?
__________________
95 f350 crew cab. 280K mi 4x4 K+N in chopped up stock box, 3.55 rear, 3" downpipe. Electric fans. No EBCV. 8K miles on 2 tank system heated veggie fuel.
84 mercedes 300sd 12k miles on veggie blends.
I can only go about two months between thorough cleanings of the battery terminals. They are constantly building corrosion on the wires or bolts.
I have put baking soda on them many times and they should be neutralized of any acid sitting on them.
Is this corrosion an indication of something going on like a short or other similar problem?
Very often corrosion is caused by gas coming up around the battery posts. Try using those impregnated felt rings over the posts before replacing the terminals. Cheers.
Brian.
__________________
94 PSD. Supercab, LB. 5spd.
Autometer oil & coolant temp gauges.rancho 9000
shocks.Smitty tube step bars.Pulsetech battery
maintainer.Rhino spray on box liner.Towing mirrors.$20 exhaust brake.Inside/outside thermometer.Radio shack CB.Still a building.LUK single mass flywheel and clutch.DIY oil bypass filter.DIY air filter.
i have tryed everything but standing on my head, if anyone solve this problem please post
__________________
1997 F 350 4X4, idm mod, bean` s stage 2` s and d66 turbo, intercooler, 4" no muffler and stack, fuel pressure mod and trans from brians truck shop rear disk brakes, and a stecher stage 1 hpop chip with bean` s programs crane valae springs
__________________
FEBRUARY 2004 F350 CREW DUALLY,50K, 6.0L/6 SPEED/3.73/2WD,
EGR SPOOL, INSULATED WRAP CAC,BUTTERFLY DELETE,ACCUFAB INLET ELBOW,MUFF TUBE,BED COVER,BREATHER VENT MOD,OB1308 BY-PASS FILTER BASE,velvet ride shackles, tranny cooler/filter,COOLANT FILTER,redline wetterbetter,1704A SUPERCHIP, 22MPG EMPTY @ 55MPH in cruise. Last fill up calculated @ 18mpg Hobbies- sticking my head out the window like a dog
Last edited by pigsbreath : 11-05-2009 at 05:18 PM.
I'm not sure of the name of it but it's at auto zone and It's called battery terminal anti corrosion spray. My wifes mini van was doing the same thing and I pb blasted it wire brushed it and put the terminals back on and sprayed the red colored terminal protector on it and that was last winter. . I felt the same way your feeling now an this took care of it. O yeah an old timer trick is to lay a penny dead center of the battery and it will draw all the corrosion to the penny.
They sure do corrode fast. Since the PO of my truck hosed the cables and connectors up I haven't really worried about it as yet. Just clean them with baking soda and water. Get some spray stuff for the terminals. Worked OK for me in the past.
I buy the spray at the auto parts store, clean everything up, spray the stuff on, and it is done until I replace the batteries. Oh, I use the felt rings, too. As silly as it seems they do seem to help.
__________________
'03 Excursion, 7.3L, 4X4, 4" MBRP exhaust, TS performance chip, K&N FIPK w/ an Amsoil EA filter, Hellwig anti-sway bar, drilled/slotted front & rear rotors. Bilstein shocks, Rancho steering damper. Airlift 5000. This baby surprises a lot of, so called, performance cars.
'04 F 350, extended cab, 6.0L, FX4, manual tranny, 4" MBRP exhaust, Bully Dog Triple Dog downloader w/ Outlook moniter, 2m-70cm Yaesu ft-8500.
'96 Mustang Cobra convertible, B&M short throw shifter, Koni adjustable shocks, viper chip, drilled/slotted rotors front and rear, rear sequential turn signals.
Maybe you should look at your alternator. You shouldn't be corroding your terminals that fast. If you're boiling the acid in the batteries you might have a bad regulator. I cleaned mine twice in the 10 yrs.I had the truck. Once when I finally replaced the batteries 3 yrs ago and once before that. I haven't had to clean mine yet. No sprays or felts. Just a coating of grease. It's been said that any kind of grease or Vaseline makes a flux and could solder your cable to your terminal if it gets loose and arcs heating it up to the melting point of the lead but I never had that happen since I started driving in 1972.Oh, new cables should have a plating on them, if you brushed that off and you're down to bare steel there's your biggest problem.
__________________
97 F250 HD XLT SC long bed, built 12/97,E4OD,4x4,Auto hubs,4.10 LS,AMSOIL lubes, Air Lift air bags,TYMAR, SCMT, Cooper 265/85/16 Discoverer "E" rating tires.Tough Country add-a-leafs in front. 19.4 mpg best in summer
I cleaned mine twice in the 10 yrs.I had the truck. Once when I finally replaced the batteries 3 yrs ago and once before that. I haven't had to clean mine yet. No sprays or felts. Just a coating of grease.
Sometimes as batteries age they will have minor leakage around the posts, that's why the felts will help on some of them.
Most times short of buying batteries you just have to fight with them......
__________________ I have a philosophy? Who knew. Ok, where's the beer?
2002 F-250 XLT CC SB\HPX\ITP prepump mod\Harpoon\DI 65psi fuel shim\4" SS turbo back Magnaflow\Fumoto\FTVB\Edge Evolution2\Zoodad\2008 Diff cover
Since Jcart's corrosion went away when he changed batterys that seems to suggest that the theory of gas coming up through the posts is pretty solid. I suppose there can still be other problems internally in the battery that are causing it though.
Ill try the felt pads right away.
I've already done the baking soda thing. Cola would just be a temporary fix to bubble away the debris and would leave the surface pH too acidic I think.
No success with dialectic grease. Ive never had a straight answer on if it is a conductor or an insulator but it sure seems to act like an insulator. When it gets in between the strands of wire it builds up the corrosion even faster.
Ive always had my doubts about the batteries themselves. They always test fine at the parts store but I have never ever had reliable starting under 60f degrees. After a difficult starting session I can usually start it when boosting off of another car.
I bought a desulfator today. Im looking forward to seeing if that changes the game but it will be a couple weeks until I know if it does any good.
Does anyone have any thoughts on "tinning" the ends of the wires with solder? It seems like at least in principal it would increase the contact between the individual strands and increase the amount of amps it can deliver and also reduce the corrosion. Any potential downside of doing this?
__________________
95 f350 crew cab. 280K mi 4x4 K+N in chopped up stock box, 3.55 rear, 3" downpipe. Electric fans. No EBCV. 8K miles on 2 tank system heated veggie fuel.
84 mercedes 300sd 12k miles on veggie blends.
Sometimes if you solder a stranded wire it becomes stiffer of course and it can snap off from vibrations but you'll never get the tin to go all the way to the insulation without melting some of it and exposing the bare copper. Try it though.It don't cost nothing. I didn't think of gas or acid leaking past the posts. I guess it can happen when someone "pounds" the terminals on. A BIG No-No. I'd still check your voltage. New batteries shouldn't gas off like an older calcified one so it might seem that the new batteries fixed a problem. Simply checking that voltage with a known good voltmeter will tell you in a few seconds. I just looked at my batteries today and the terminals are just fine. Just some dust on the neg. ones making them look dirty.
__________________
97 F250 HD XLT SC long bed, built 12/97,E4OD,4x4,Auto hubs,4.10 LS,AMSOIL lubes, Air Lift air bags,TYMAR, SCMT, Cooper 265/85/16 Discoverer "E" rating tires.Tough Country add-a-leafs in front. 19.4 mpg best in summer
My understanding of dielectric grease is it is a conductor, also according to the tech support guys of an engine manufacturer I deal with dielectric grease is hydroscopic.
This particular engine mfg was using dielectric grease inside electrical connectors used in an off road application and it was absorbing water causing corrosion inside the connectors and giving the computer fits. Now they recommend waterproof grease in this particular application. It does not retain water, but does not promote conductivity.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.