I'm not sure about this on a brake caliper, I was taught to do it on blocks and other metal parts without brake fluid in them. You might want to pull the hose and drain the fluid first if you try this trick...
Use a torch to head the bleeder and area just around it. It's best to get it hot enough to begin to glow, but it works most of the time if you stop short of that. After you heat it press a piece of wax to the point where the treads enter the caliper. The wax will get drawn into the threads and the bleeder will come out easy after that.
Of course, you will want to get rid of the wax before reassembling the caliper and using the brakes. Like I said, not sure if it's appropriate but might be better than a new caliper.
'96 Supercab long bed 4X4 - Only mods are for wvo - tank heater, fuel line bundled with coolant lines, and heat exchanger before fuel filter, 80k miles on used veggie oil and counting. 330K total miles so far.
I had this problem recently, and did a bit of searching on the net. Here's what the general consensus was...
Lots of penetrating oil overnight.
Get a good 6 point socket or box end wrench. Turn until it breaks free or you round over the flats. (I actually used a smaller metric socket and hammered it on, but it still wouldn't come out)
When the flats round over, get a GOOD vice grip. Heat the bleeder until it glows, then pour water on it to quickly cool it. Use the vice grip adjusted as tight as you can get it, and remove. People have said the heat/quench/vice-grip method is successful almost all of the time. Its best to do this in a vice or on the bench.
In the very few cases when heating doesn't work, you can drill out the bleeder. Use a drill bit the same size as the minor diameter of the threads. The hole should self center the drill fairly well. Use the correct tap to chase the threads and clean out the old metal.
If the bleeder is this bad, I would suggest looking at the rest of the caliper, especially if you have to buy the proper drill bit and tap. I went through all this, and then just replaced the caliper because it had a cracked phenolic piston. Less than $40 and everything was rebuilt.
its looking like new calipers, the ends of the pistons are rough and the aluminum covering on them is gone most spots, the one i was working on has a score under the boot that will likely hang up again after new pads wear some. no dice on the bleeder screw it ended up sheering off even after all the recomended treatments..........and to top it off i blew a rear line when i moved the truck in the driveway last night
certainly not worth the retap and rebuild yourself for the price of remans.
1995 F-250 PSD 4X4 EXTRACAB LONG BOX AUTO
TYMAR FILTER, 4" MBRP STAINLESS TURBO TO TAIL
EOT MOD FOR COLD STARTS
CUSTOM RUNNING BOARDS
STANDENS FULL 3 LEAF FRONT SPRINGS
1990 25th Anniversary 5.0 GT
2012 F150 4X4 supercab longbox HDPKG 5.0