what would cause the pins that supply the gps on some of the connectors to be burnt and while i have the vc's off anything to look for or do seeing that it wont start yet.
thanks
__________________
97 F350 CC LB PSD AIC 4" Superlift 2" reverse shackle 44" dick cepecks custom bumpers and headache rack Rancho 9000 shocks 4 in straight pipe and soon to add DP (old style)
There is a whole lot of heat with the high amps going to the GPs. That and the fact the relay is activated way too long time wise. Unless its really cold where you are leave the control lead to the GPR disconnected. At least in summertime. Or you can put a switch on it. There are a couple ways to do it. Neither of which I am familiar with. But it can be done.
I believe you can ohm check the glow plugs. They should be .8 ohms as far as I remember. I'm sure if I'm mistaken someone will correct me.
__________________
97 Ford F250 4x4 Extra Cab Longbed Power Stroke (no mods) Front tow hitch, rebuilt E4OD at 162,000
Truck is up to 193,000 and counting as of 11-14-09
If the beast will not start then it could be either the glow-plugs or the gp switch. The plugs were on sale 2 years ago so I just replaced them. I found 3 burn't pins so I made a new harness just for the LS glow plug circuit. I had both under rocker cover harness burn on me so I replaced both harnesses under both sides and both cover gaskets. All 3 years ago. I was at 8700 ft and it was 16*F thursday and it started w/o the plug and I just waited 1 time for the wts light. Fired up on about 6 then the other 2 kicked in. In other words, if in doubt and you need it to start, replace the gp's.
__________________
95 F250,XLT, 4WD, Auto Trans,bbshimmed,synthetic trans oil,4:10 gears ,Truck Trunk ,Nerf Bars ,crome Mud flaps, Aux. trans cooler, front diff. drain plug. External trans.filter, trimmed snorkel. American wheels water temp guage, front fuel tank mod,Warn Manual hubs,Putman class 4 hitch 181k mi.
It is said if you sit by the river and watch the water flow by long enough, your enemies will pass by. This I believe to be true. It is also possible to watch your loved ones pass by as well.
Wife Candi 08/14/07 missing her always
yeah my initial problem was the truck would die and then not restart at least for a while then restart so i swapped the cps it was doing the same thing then scanned and swapped the oil sensor near the front lift eye (forgot name) still did the same thing and then i parked it for the weekened and it decieded not to start at all.
__________________
97 F350 CC LB PSD AIC 4" Superlift 2" reverse shackle 44" dick cepecks custom bumpers and headache rack Rancho 9000 shocks 4 in straight pipe and soon to add DP (old style)
If you feel like extra work you should check the armature clearances on your injectors. You can use a T15 torx screwdriver to remove the solenoid. There is a pretty good write up on diy-injectors.com on how to check clearances. You probably should have the tool to tighten the poppet screws on hand as they are known to loosen at times. One coomonly used tool is a 4mm hex bit, edges ground down. A better fit is a 4.5mm linehead bit, commonly available on Ebay as a 4.5mm or large "Nintendo Tool"
Also keep one of your uvch pigtails to the injectors so you can energize the solenoid.
__________________
97 Ford F250 4x4 Extra Cab Longbed Power Stroke (no mods) Front tow hitch, rebuilt E4OD at 162,000
Truck is up to 193,000 and counting as of 11-14-09
Whoa..hold on. If you have burnt pins on the vch then you need to find out why! Usually burnt pins indicate a bad plug, which draws more current, which builds heat, which burns the weakest link where the resistance is the greatest. Check your plugs out..check your connections out.
__________________
Randy
Midnight black '94 * F-250 * 4x4 * ZF-5 * 4:10 * cc/lwb * RDS Single Shot Stage I's* TDP 6pos chip * BDP electric fuel * BDP 1.0 exhaust housing * Hypermax 3x4" dp * Authentic Tymar intake* 7.3 Intercooler * gutted ebpv * 4" exhaust & 5" tip * LUK clutch * A-pillar pod w/ Auto Meter NV boost, pyro and water temp gauges * reverse dash lighting and hvac controls * Optima yellow top batts D75/25, both on the right side * HPO X-over mod * manually controlled gp's * cruise control mod * add-a-leaf (front) * AC mod
That should do it. I just didnt want you to rebuild the connectors without finding the reason they burnt.
__________________
Randy
Midnight black '94 * F-250 * 4x4 * ZF-5 * 4:10 * cc/lwb * RDS Single Shot Stage I's* TDP 6pos chip * BDP electric fuel * BDP 1.0 exhaust housing * Hypermax 3x4" dp * Authentic Tymar intake* 7.3 Intercooler * gutted ebpv * 4" exhaust & 5" tip * LUK clutch * A-pillar pod w/ Auto Meter NV boost, pyro and water temp gauges * reverse dash lighting and hvac controls * Optima yellow top batts D75/25, both on the right side * HPO X-over mod * manually controlled gp's * cruise control mod * add-a-leaf (front) * AC mod
I'm not loosing any oil from the hpop but there was oil on the conectors any reason to crank whil the vc are off to look for leaky orings on injectors?
__________________
97 F350 CC LB PSD AIC 4" Superlift 2" reverse shackle 44" dick cepecks custom bumpers and headache rack Rancho 9000 shocks 4 in straight pipe and soon to add DP (old style)
Oil on the connectors is usually because the connections got very hot and melted the plastic in the gasket around the feed-thru pins. Might as well crank her over with the VCs off so you can look at the injectors and possible oil leakage. Cheers!
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
Linear Mode
