I went on a trip that is about 8 hours and the a/c was icy cold- then when I came back to the truck a week later it does not work at all. Can anyone tell me where to start checking. I do not think the compressor is kicking on at all but I will try to verify that first.
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1994 F250, Tymar, Tuff country 2" lift
Make sure that the compressor is working. I had the top connector go open on mine last year. If you wiggled it it would work for a while and then quit. If you can find the right dealer there is a aftermarket connector for it or you may try the one for the 99+ years.
Jim
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96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages,Dark Toumaline, add a leaf,Dale's TYMAR,and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter with coolant eye
I had the same problem with the connector on mine, I just moved it around until it started to work, been working fine for two years without anymore problems.
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1996 F-350,CC,LB, Rebuilt Tranny,Billet Trq conv,shift kit, AFE Stage 2 intake, 3' dp, 4''Diamondeye exh with flow through muffler, 35"BFG's,no lift,new engine wiring harness,new fuel heater(dealer fixed due to a short before I found this site,knowing what I know now I would have just unplugged it),new glow plugs at about 145,000 mi,balljoints,bearings,rotors,all new steering linkage,GPR,powersteering pump,steering wheel bearings,IDM mod,rebuilt turbo and gutted EBPV and pedestal,just over 175,000 mi,
the compressor is not kicking in - and wiggling the connector makes no difference. There are two connectors on top- which one and how do I test it? Is there a way to tell if the compressor clutch is bad? Is it easy to change?
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1994 F250, Tymar, Tuff country 2" lift
Test resistance across the two terminals to test. Good should be about 1 ohm or so. If you have resistance, see if you have voltage at the connector with the ac on.
If there is no voltage there, then you have a bad switch, or low freon (or bad wire, etc.). If open circuit across terminals, then bad clutch. If there is voltage and resistance, the clutch itself may be bad. It might be possible to readjust, although it's probably shot.
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2006 GMC K3500 CC DRW 4x4
1994 F-350 DRW PS w/ zf5
1996 Town Car
The resisitance is 3.4 ohms and there is voltage- what now? Clutch coil is probably good,right? How to test clutch- do I need some kind of puller to change the clutch?
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1994 F250, Tymar, Tuff country 2" lift
That's probably a good coil. You need to check ground as well. You have voltage and ground at the plug, and a good coil - so the only conclusion is that the coil is engaging but the friction material for the clutch is missing enough that it's not engaging the compressor.
There's a nut at the middle of the clutch. You need to pull the bolt out and disassemble the clutch. There may be some shims in it that can be removed to get it to work, but it will probably fail again soon. I would just get a new clutch.
When the clutch is engaged, it is supposed to move the outer plate .080, IIRC.
Does that make sense?
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2006 GMC K3500 CC DRW 4x4
1994 F-350 DRW PS w/ zf5
1996 Town Car
Before you tear into the compressor buy a $30 gauge to see if you are low on r134a.
I would start there.
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1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 8/1/08 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 6 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 3.0 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 14.8 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
I believe that there would be no voltage to clutch coil if it was low on refrigeranr, right? My understanding is that the pressure switch must prove refrigerant pressure or the voltage will not be sent to clutch coil? Somebody please correct me if this is not right.
I will dissassemble clutch next. BTW- there is very noticeable play in the clutch.
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1994 F250, Tymar, Tuff country 2" lift
I believe that there would be no voltage to clutch coil if it was low on refrigeranr, right? My understanding is that the pressure switch must prove refrigerant pressure or the voltage will not be sent to clutch coil? Somebody please correct me if this is not right.
I will dissassemble clutch next. BTW- there is very noticeable play in the clutch.
Correct. If it's low on refrigerant, it would either have the compressor engaged or not have voltage to the clutch. You have a compressor cycling switch that is a NO switch, and does not close until a certian pressure is reached. It's on the return line located at the back of the compressor.
Please explain the play in the clutch. Does the face of the clutch have up and down movement? That's likely a bad front bearing in the compressor. I have the same problem in mine currently.
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2006 GMC K3500 CC DRW 4x4
1994 F-350 DRW PS w/ zf5
1996 Town Car
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