I'm trying to locate a fuel leak that causes fuel in the valley and puddles on ground (I've read dozens of posts here about it, thanks!) So I degreased the area underneath the fuel pump and filter and dried it out.
Then I removed the filter, only to find the bottom plate from a previous filter (pic 1.) I removed the filter plate and found the heater in bad shape. Half the wire was missing, and nothing was soldered to the heater plate. I unplugged the heater and removed it, then cleaned the crud out from the bottm of the filter housing. I found some heater pieces buried in the gunk at the bottom of the housing (see pic 2.)
Problem 1) I reassembled the filter without the heater, and now the check engine light is on. Is that because I removed the heater, or does that mean something else is wrong? (I plan on replacing the heater, but I'm waiting to see whether I replace the entire fuel filter assembly.)
Problem 2) This thing won't leak when I'm watching (I guess she's a bit modest ) Normally I notice the leak when I turn it off (like when I stop to re-fuel.) Do I take the filter housing off and replace all of the hoses and inspect the housing for cracks or holes? Or do I wait for it to leak and see if I can locate the source. With all of the stuff in the way, I don't see how I could ever pinpoint the leak, even with my telescoping mirror and flashlights. (see pic. 3)
Removing the fuel heater will not set a check engine light or around half of the posters on here would have it. As far as finding the leak it may be the weep hole on the fuel pump. What I would do is clean the area as good as possible, even a little brake cleaner will help. Then sprinkle some baby powder between the filter housing and fuel pump and just let the truck idle for a while and see if you can tell from witch direction the leak is coming.
Thanks, I saw the Baby powder tip, but I don't have any. I'll take it for a drive and see if I can get it leaking again. While I'm at it I'll pick up some baby powder!
When people disconnect the fuel heater, do they also unplug the heater cable on the outside of the filter housing? I'm searching for the cause of the check engine light. Anyone got an idea what I might have done to cause the check engine light to come on? (I only worked in the area of the housing.)
Do a good inspection of the wiring around the fuel heater external plug (ans basically the whole fuel bowl harness) since fuel leaks cause the wiring insulation to turn into mush (and lead to shorts especially with the IPR wiring). You can leave the external plug connected. If you removed the heater plate, you may want to reinstall it without the element attached thus keeping the standpipe and filter geometry the same. Cheers!
Yesterday evening I drove about 2 miles and parked so I could walk my dog. It ran great like it always has, but the check engine light was on the entire time. When I got back to my truck an hour later, I started it up and it wouldn't idle. It was really rough, rev up then almost stall, repeating that cycle until it would die. Kind of like a gas engine with a bad vacuum leak. The check engine light was off, but it was running horribly. This is obviously related to something I did, but I don't know where to begin looking. Any help is really appreciated.
I'll try putting the heater plate back in, and I'll check the wiring as best as I'm able. It's pretty difficult to inspect anything down there with the filter housing in place. If that doesn't help, I'll probably remove the housing for a better look.
Yesterday evening I drove about 2 miles and parked so I could walk my dog. It ran great like it always has, but the check engine light was on the entire time. When I got back to my truck an hour later, I started it up and it wouldn't idle. It was really rough, rev up then almost stall, repeating that cycle until it would die. Kind of like a gas engine with a bad vacuum leak. The check engine light was off, but it was running horribly. This is obviously related to something I did, but I don't know where to begin looking. Any help is really appreciated.
I'll try putting the heater plate back in, and I'll check the wiring as best as I'm able. It's pretty difficult to inspect anything down there with the filter housing in place. If that doesn't help, I'll probably remove the housing for a better look.
Well I would not put the heater plate back in, I have mine without it and no problem and not CEL, and when I clean the fuel bowl its easier to do it without the plate. if you remove the housing check in the bottom for corrosion, it could be a small pinholes there, like mine, I just JB welded it and thats it.
Hello every one, I am new here and wondering what is the rigth way to remove the uprigth pipe iside the fuel fiter canister, Should i use a bent wrench to turn it as a regular bolt would or is it held from underneath??
I have a lot of mud under the fuel heater, needing to be out of there and never put it back to be able to clean it (not need for that here in Houston)
Like Patrick mentioned in a previous post. I would double check all the wiring around the fuel bowl.
Including the ipr like mentioned, also check the icp sensor, check the valve cover wiring.
While the truck is running go under the hood and gently wiggle/move the connectors and wires right behind the connectors. See if you get any changes in how the engine is running.
If all else fails get it scanned.
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Matt Rajewski
97 F-350,SC,LB,4x4,resisted,straight pipe,ITP downpipe,pyro & boost gauges on pillar mount,Diesel Power Chip,MADDOGAFIED,k/n cone filter, GTP38R BB, Hx line, 2001 hp oil pump, BTS Tranny, custom fuel and tank mods, 3" intakes, 360/#2 437/propane. My truck
The Dorman one looks like the SD-style unit, so one might have to slightly modify the inside of the filter bowl (unless they made a slight tweak to the SD design). Cheers!
I have a question about the forum, is it possible to up load video??. Since I have video on my phone about what is going on with my truck, yes...I have something else going on besides the dirt at the bottom of the filter canister!!!!. (wonder if are related or not)
I just got this new to me truck a few weeks ago it is a '95 F350 2WD Crew/ logn bed.
From time to time while warming up, the engine just stalls and the tach meter goes crazy, ABS, CHECK ENGINE and WAIT TO START lights blink, and loud clicking noises coming from iside the valve covers (or very close) it cranks but won't start while this is happening. When it goes away it starts rigth up.
If I take off rigth after starting the truck it won't stall, it hessitates two or trhee times while driving and then runs perfect all day until it's parked overnight.
Help please!!!!
and thanks in advance.....
Last edited by 90mx5texas; 01-24-2011 at 06:21 PM.
Tach issues, no run/start are often the CPS. Sounds like you have some intermittent issues. The clicking maybe coming from your GPR - if it's clicking, the glow plugs aren't getting steady power and therefore not heating, so no start. Check all your connections, including those to the PCM & IDM as the truck is new to you. Check the IDM for water inside it, as they sometimes leak and then wierd things happen.
Hello every one, I am new here and wondering what is the rigth way to remove the uprigth pipe iside the fuel fiter canister, Should i use a bent wrench to turn it as a regular bolt would or is it held from underneath??
I have a lot of mud under the fuel heater, needing to be out of there and never put it back to be able to clean it (not need for that here in Houston)
Quote:
Originally Posted by jabbster
Use a crowfoot socket, kinda looks like the head of an open end wrench that fits on a socket wrench. I think it's 7/8", but I could be wrong.
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) Normally I notice the leak when I turn it off (like when I stop to re-fuel.) Do I take the filter housing off and replace all of the hoses and inspect the housing for cracks or holes? Or do I wait for it to leak and see if I can locate the source. With all of the stuff in the way, I don't see how I could ever pinpoint the leak, even with my telescoping mirror and flashlights. (see pic. 3)
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