Hey there,
new to fords and new to the forum. I'm hoping somebody out there can help. Got a '95 e350 a week ago. It immediately needed a new fuel pump. Had that changed and immediately noticed my battery light was on. Had to make it home and it ran like a champ. Ran the tank low, refilled and had running probs so I changed the fuel filter (ugly). Now it won't run for more than 30 secs then dies. Then I have to wait a long time (overnight) before it willl even start at all. I've recharged the batteries but can't get good amps, and the battery light is still on. Does this sound familiar to anybody? Big thanks for any and all help!
No, I didn't run it out of fuel, but I thought maybe I ran it far enough down that 12 years of tank gunk might have gotten sucked up into the fuel lines,causing the original rough running. Also I'm still not sure what is important, so I thought Id include anything that might be. Now it just seems like I get one start in the A.M. for 30 secs, after which it dies even if I'm flooring it, and then it will turn over but wont start again.Thanks for the reply!
Fpr screen, that sounds promising. I think that is part of the package on the side of the fuel filter bowl, right? Hey thanks for the input, I'll go out and try that and let you know if it works. Cheers.
Well, Igot all the other parts out of my way so I can access the fpr. That led me to a question; where is the screen in the fpr? Do I have to break a gasket seal to get to it? And is that a shrader valve coming out the side of it? If anybody can weigh in with a few details before I start ripping into it I'd appreciate it. Thanks.
Well, Igot all the other parts out of my way so I can access the fpr. That led me to a question; where is the screen in the fpr? Do I have to break a gasket seal to get to it? And is that a shrader valve coming out the side of it? If anybody can weigh in with a few details before I start ripping into it I'd appreciate it. Thanks.
The shrader is a test port for high fuel pressure. You don't have to take the fpr off to clean the screen. Take the lid off the fuel bowl and pull the filter. On the drivers side of the fuel bowl a bit down from the top is a drilled hole. It is the port that leads to the "screen", you can clean it with a qtip from here.
That being said, You may want to check your ipr, or the orings, maybe they have a massive leak to sump....this is an odd scenario, have any codes?
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Sold, back when the snow was on...
1997 PSD 3/4 ton 4x4 SC LWB SRW; 5 spd; 3:55; K&N open element/homemade intake; gutted EBPV piston, plugged hole; 3 in. downpipe; SCMT 1705; shimmed to 70 psi; 120,000; TTB DiPricol 0-60 white face boost gauge, DiPricol 0-1600 white face pyrometer, SOLD in between gauges for now; A-Pillar mount for now. DIY 160cc Injectors.DIY IDM mod. ValAir O-FE w/3400# plate; Front and rear tank filler neck mods
Hey there jdb
thanks for the post. I already did it the hard way, but now I know for next time.
Boy getting to this stuff on a van is a challenge-at least for me. I'm waiting for my batteries to charge before testing the fpr theory. Where is the Ipr located? I've got a feeling I'm going to find out! Thanks again for the post.
Forgot to add, I don't know about codes yet because I cant get it into a shop. I'm looking for a code reader to borrow but for now I'm in the dark. Crossing things off the list though....
Some of this you may have done ... I just did a cut and paste from another post i just did...
I would start with the easy things... if you have done them then go on to the more expensive issues... I would start with air filter, fuel filter, FPR filter, add some staydene (sp) to the fuel tanks to get any water out, drain fuel filter before you change the filter.
It does sound like you are on the right track with the GPR. The harness can be an issue as it is built into the valve cover gasket. What that means is it could be a wiring issue or some bad glow plugs or both. I would consider just doing all of it that will relieve having to take it apart several times.. While the relay is a do it yourself the glow plugs are a pain and if only 1 is a trouble having it in the shop (at least for me) is worth the $$$$. Make sure that you use Ford glow plugs you can get them cheaper at Auto Zone and just take them to the dealer.
If none of these improve the issue I would look into the fuel heater in the bowl as a possibility of causing a short but that is getting out my area of expertise... or stuff that I have dealt with .... good luck...
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I hope whoever has my next truck is taking care of it....
When I haul it's a 30 ft. Thor filled with 4 Quads, 1 Kayak, 3 bikes and a dog, (about 9K plus the truck)
97 F-350 4x4 Quad cab,Bully Dog w/4 position switch (run @ #4 most of the time), Western Diesel TurboBrake III, Pyrometer preturbo, Autometer Boost gauge, Third tranny cooler and gauge on the piller, Tymar intake, Raven canopy, BD downturn exhaust, 4:10 rear, Bilstein shocks, Velvet Rides, manual hubs, 295 75R 16 BFG KO A/T's, BB in FPR, Home made ram cold air intake, Eclispe stereo, 203 degree thermostat.
HeyQR,
thanks for the input. The fpr was definitely dirty, but when I started it up it still only ran for 30 sec or so then died, and wont catch after that, so same ol' same ol'. I like the idea of going from simple (and cheaper) to complex, but now I think I'm geting beyond my knowledge/comfort level. I think I'm going to tow it in to a shop tonight and get a computer on it tomorrow. I'm wondring if a sensor is shutting it down to prevent major damage, or if something is still restricting fuel delivery, and that the fuel can seep by and collect for one good start before burning off. I don't know, but I sure appreciate everybody's help. This is a great site, especially for a newbie like me. I'll post what the pro's find. Thanks all!
To help us all when you find out what it was drop a note... thanks
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I hope whoever has my next truck is taking care of it....
When I haul it's a 30 ft. Thor filled with 4 Quads, 1 Kayak, 3 bikes and a dog, (about 9K plus the truck)
97 F-350 4x4 Quad cab,Bully Dog w/4 position switch (run @ #4 most of the time), Western Diesel TurboBrake III, Pyrometer preturbo, Autometer Boost gauge, Third tranny cooler and gauge on the piller, Tymar intake, Raven canopy, BD downturn exhaust, 4:10 rear, Bilstein shocks, Velvet Rides, manual hubs, 295 75R 16 BFG KO A/T's, BB in FPR, Home made ram cold air intake, Eclispe stereo, 203 degree thermostat.
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