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Power Strokes 1994-1997 General Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the Power Stroke engine in 1994 through 1997 models.

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Old 12-06-2010, 09:25 AM   #1 (permalink)
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clutch pedal assembly

Putting a clutch in my truck and i have a lot of slop in clutch pedal. Does anyone know where to get a pedal assembly rebuild kit? Better yet, is this going to be an odd job and hard to do? Never took this out of any vehichle , so not sure what I am up against. Just would like to have the pedals like they were when it was new and no play in clutch pedal.
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Old 12-06-2010, 03:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Replacing the pedal box bushings is not that bad, but you do need to get the clutch master cylinder rod actuating arm clocked in the correct position. You also will probably need to replace the clutch master cylinder rod bushing if the rod end is not damaged (if the original bushing is bad ... common problem). There are various fixes from just replacing stock, doing the "drill stop method", or using the heim joint mod typically found on ebay. If you want more info, just ask (myself or the other folks here are happy to help). Stock parts:

Pedal Box Bushing Kit
(Ford) F3TZ-2C342-A

Clutch Master Cylinder Rod Bushing
(Ford) E69Z7526A

Cheers!
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SOLD: 94 F350 CC DRW, 5 Speed, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, 3 DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer O/H Console, Trans Temp, Boost, and Pyro, Pedestal Mod, Gutted EBPV
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Old 12-07-2010, 01:40 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Take a very close look at the pedal assembly. If the bushings were bad for long, you may have wear in the metal. The pedal assembly for a 95 F-150 was $150 list in 12/2009. Buy from Tousley Ford and it's probably under $100 assuming they are the same. I intentionally am not posting the part number since I don't know for sure it's the same.
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'94 F350 4x4 PowerStroke, 5-speed, 4.10 gears, crew cab, XLT, Luk Clutch, ZF-47, Hydroboost, AIC, Max A/C Assist, 95.5 radiator and degas bottle 318,000 miles

'96 F350 4x4 PowerStroke, auto, 4.10 gears, crew cab, XLT, DRW conversion, AIC, 502,000 miles

'02 F350 4x4 PowerStroke, 6-speed, 3.73 gears, crew cab, XLT, DRW, AIC, 223,000 miles
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Old 12-08-2010, 06:22 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Master cylinder was replaced 2 years ago and bushing also. Bushing still looked good the other week, but no biggie. Got some extra's in glove box. Surprisingly, this bushing has lasted longer than the others have over the years, but also I dont drive this truck as much as I used to either.

the old pushrod was well wore out when I changed the cylinder last time, to the point I couldnt push pedal in far enough to activate safety start switch . This in turn kept someone from stealing my truck and trailer once, although I still had to fix the door and locks and a new ignition since they tore the other one out.

Thanks for the heads up, as I have one on the way now and hopefully have truck back in service friday. Thanks again.
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Old 12-08-2010, 10:58 PM   #5 (permalink)
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You may also want to check the reinforcement around the bushing closest to the clutch master cylinder rod actuating arm for broken welds. It has been mentioned here before.

I too was searching for the pedal bushing kit number, thanks Patrick.

I have been searching for the heim joint mod specs as well, they have not been listed on Ebay for a while now, that I can find. I know Garbage Mech has assembled and installed a number of these. I will have to ask him, I have searched.

Aggie, I was quoted at $180, local stealer, for the pedal assembly when I asked for the bushings. Was told that was the only way to get the bushings, so thanks again guys.

I have not been on here long, but there is a wealth of knowledge here.
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94.5 F350 CC DRW 2WD 7.3 Powerstroke, 5spd. 4.10. Purchased 10-01-2010 w/229090 miles, w/worn clutch linkage for $1395, fixed the clutch function for $25 in parts and drove it off the lot!! 11-29-2010 @ 233122 miles=Baldwin P2818/DIY Tymar and BB mod. 12-26-2010 @ 233944 miles=heim joint mod. The rest is stock, for now. Looking to increase power and MPG's!

Last edited by catch22; 12-09-2010 at 01:59 AM.
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Old 12-08-2010, 11:22 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Hahaha! So the bushing number Patrick gave you is the number that they can't sell you by itself? I spent 7 years as a parts guy (not Ford) and the incompetence, lazyness and unwillingness to try always amazes me. You should take the part number in and ask if they can sell you that number. Then tell them you don't want it since it only comes as a pedal assembly.

Both bushing kit numbers are also correct for a 95 F-150. Just compared them. If someone gets the full pedal I'd like to compare that part number too.

catch22: Make sure you check out site sponsor Minneapolis Ford Dealer - Tousley Ford - New & Used Ford Cars, Trucks, SUVs & Hybrids - Minneapolis Minnesota Dealership - Serving Saint Paul, Stillwater, Hudson, Hastings, White Bear Lake, Anoka Prices can't be beat. Spoke with them on the phone Monday when I had a question ordering oil cooler parts and help was superb.

Just read your sig...congrats on the truck. Get any good looks when you drove it off the lot?
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'96 F350 4x4 PowerStroke, auto, 4.10 gears, crew cab, XLT, DRW conversion, AIC, 502,000 miles

'02 F350 4x4 PowerStroke, 6-speed, 3.73 gears, crew cab, XLT, DRW, AIC, 223,000 miles
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Old 12-09-2010, 07:32 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks Aggie, it was a small dealer and only the secretary was in on the Sat. I picked it up and did the paperwork. So no good looks on the way out, but I had a big smile!! Didn't go down exactly the way you mentioned at the stealer, he pulled up the pedal assembly and the bushes had numbers for them. I asked for those parts and that is when he said "you can't get those part #'s separate". But with the part number from Patrick it took all of 5 seconds on the phone and I picked them up today, $18.

I have spent waaaaay tooo many hours searching and gleaming info from the experience that can be found here. Thanks Aggie, Patrick, Garbage and many others for all of the free exchange of info here.

Oh also I looked at another $1500 PSD dually yesterday. I have vehicle issues!
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94.5 F350 CC DRW 2WD 7.3 Powerstroke, 5spd. 4.10. Purchased 10-01-2010 w/229090 miles, w/worn clutch linkage for $1395, fixed the clutch function for $25 in parts and drove it off the lot!! 11-29-2010 @ 233122 miles=Baldwin P2818/DIY Tymar and BB mod. 12-26-2010 @ 233944 miles=heim joint mod. The rest is stock, for now. Looking to increase power and MPG's!
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Old 01-03-2011, 05:41 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Feeley View Post
Replacing the pedal box bushings is not that bad, but you do need to get the clutch master cylinder rod actuating arm clocked in the correct position. You also will probably need to replace the clutch master cylinder rod bushing if the rod end is not damaged (if the original bushing is bad ... common problem). There are various fixes from just replacing stock, doing the "drill stop method", or using the heim joint mod typically found on ebay. If you want more info, just ask (myself or the other folks here are happy to help). Stock parts:

Pedal Box Bushing Kit
(Ford) F3TZ-2C342-A

Clutch Master Cylinder Rod Bushing
(Ford) E69Z7526A

Cheers!
Whats the "drill stop method"? And what are any other fixes you know?
Thanks, Joe-
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Old 01-03-2011, 06:52 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Welcome to the forum, Joe!

There is the "ebay heim joint fix" which replaces the bushing and rod end with a heim joint (some other little mod in there too), the drill stop method, and the e-clip method. The drill stop method is simple and effective if the rod end is still in good shape. First, get a new bushing and trim off the tabs that are supposed to keep the bushing in the rod end. Get a 7/16" shaft collar (also called a drill stop) from you local hardware store (should be less than $2). Install the trimmed bushing in the rod end and put a dab of grease on the pedal linkage stub. install the rod/bushing on the stub and then put the shaft collar over the rest of the stub that sticks out. Tighten the allen screw to secure the shaft collar. My original stock bushing lasted 75k miles. At that point I had to replace the master cylinder, line and slave (due to slave cracking). With the new rod and bushing, the new bushing lasted all of two weeks. I then did the method described above and everything was still fine with 250k on the truck when I sold it (same bushing!). The e-clip method is similar in concept to the drill stop method but uses an e-clip to hold things together. Cheers!
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SOLD: 94 F350 CC DRW, 5 Speed, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, 3 DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer O/H Console, Trans Temp, Boost, and Pyro, Pedestal Mod, Gutted EBPV
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Old 01-03-2011, 11:03 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Sounds good man, thanks for your input. As everything is egged out and destroyed, i think im going to try the heim joint fix. Im guessing any basic heim joint will work? Only ones im finding are a threaded female end..
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Old 01-04-2011, 10:50 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I just pulled the pedal assembly and replaced all the bushings and completed the heim joint mod. I sourced all the parts and installed it in one afternoon. The removal of the pedal assembly was the hardest part. the bushings took about 5 min. and reinstall was better than removal. I did remove some additional material from the pedal bracket to more easily clear the brake booster rod on the way in. I have pics of the area I removed this from and of most of this install, will try to add later.

All I can say is this makes a huge difference in the function of the clutch. I have not had the privilege of driving one of these as new from the factory. But I'm willing to guess that this is now better than new. I was already having problems getting it into 2nd and reverse from a stop. This is with a brand new clutch master cylinder rod actuating arm and bushing, but also with a worn out clutch master rod end after one month of use.

I did build another complete setup for the truck I looked at last week, may not need it now. It has the already modded clutch master cylinder rod actuating arm with heim and all hardware needed. For the next one all I need to do is cut off the stock clutch master rod end, remove stock clutch master cylinder rod actuating arm and install new modded arm with heim installed and done.

Joemumm, you need:

Parts:
-3/8" female heim = 3/8" both rod end and threaded opening, trim length of the threaded portion of the heim. Then drill and tap for a set screw.
-3/8" x 1 1/2" to 2" bolt, threaded to the base of the head/no non threaded shank.
-3/8" nylock nut
-set screw and appropriate drill and tap for it's installation
-3/8" washers, to space the heim away from clutch arm.

Do work!
-remove the stock clutch master rod from the stock clutch arm=flat screw driver/small pry bar
-remove that stock clutch arm = 18mm socket and med pry bar
-cut "only the head" off of the clutch master rod end, even leaving the rod section with the 2 flats. This allows enough movement of the clutch rod without the heim getting into the switch that lives on the clutch master rod's shaft. This is also why you need to trim the female portion of the heim!
-slip modded clutch arm, with 3/8" bolt installed, onto clutch pedal pivot shaft and tighten 18mm nut. Only to where it is snug on the pivot shaft and the arm is still able to rotate on shaft, not onto the splines yet.
-on mine I installed a couple 3/8" washers onto the bolt to space the heim away from the arm.
-slip the heim onto clutch master rod, then other end of the heim onto bolt that is in the clutch arm.
-push heim towards fire wall/preload onto clutch master rod and tighten set screw.
-hold clutch pedal up=away from the fire wall, while holding clutch arm toward the fire wall and tighten up the 18mm nut. Yes, this takes 2 hands and one knee or elbow.
-check for free play, should be almost nonexistent.
-check full range of motion of the pedal and watch for clearance at the switch that lives on the clutch master rod"s shaft.
-enjoy correct clutch functions!

Sorry this was long winded, but this is what I found/did with mine. Also trying to pay forward for the info that I have already gleamed from here. I will also be trying to add pics of this job as well.


I may be offering this as a kit to cut down on the time needed to perform this job. Think of it as the ebay kit with a better quality heim plus the already prepped clutch master cylinder rod actuating arm. Also included is all of the, correct hardware needed.


So the end user would not have to remove and then prep their clutch master cylinder rod actuating arm in the middle of the job. So just remove stock clutch master cylinder rod actuating arm, cut clutch master rod end and install kit.


Thanks again to all of the guys that supplied me with info for this job.


On to the next mod!
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94.5 F350 CC DRW 2WD 7.3 Powerstroke, 5spd. 4.10. Purchased 10-01-2010 w/229090 miles, w/worn clutch linkage for $1395, fixed the clutch function for $25 in parts and drove it off the lot!! 11-29-2010 @ 233122 miles=Baldwin P2818/DIY Tymar and BB mod. 12-26-2010 @ 233944 miles=heim joint mod. The rest is stock, for now. Looking to increase power and MPG's!

Last edited by catch22; 01-04-2011 at 10:55 PM.
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Old 01-05-2011, 07:09 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Sounds like a good plan, how did you get the pushrod out of the master cyclinder without breaking the clips ?

Thanks 97Mule
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Old 01-05-2011, 10:27 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97Mule View Post
Sounds like a good plan, how did you get the pushrod out of the master cylinder without breaking the clips ?

Thanks 97Mule
97Mule - I did not remove the pushrod from the clutch master cylinder. Some just pop the pushrod off and cut the rod end off of it there under the dash. With a hacksaw, air cutoff wheel, dremel with cutoff wheel. But this is in close proximity to the throttle and other wires. But I already had pulled the brake booster into the engine compartment, as far as I could, as well as the clutch master. This was to allow for the removal of the pedal assembly, to replace all of the bushings on the clutch/brake pedal shaft. So with the clutch master already all the way in the engine compartment, I used an electric 4.5" angle grinder with cutoff wheel installed and then filed the end clean. I double checked the heim fit before reinstalling the clutch master. You will need to clean both the cut end of the pushrod and the threaded end of the heim, after cutting off the extra length there as well. It is a fairly tight fit.

97Mule - I have also read that the steel used for the pushrods in the 1999 and up trucks is much harder than our OBS trucks. So I would suggest that you pull the clutch master into the engine compartment and mod it there. It is much easier than working under the dash too.

Question for the others here! Is there a way to remove the pushrod from the master cylinder, without damage to either parts and the ability to reassemble them? If so I could include a modded pushrod in this possible kit as well. Then it is just a one time R&R job. Let me know.
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94.5 F350 CC DRW 2WD 7.3 Powerstroke, 5spd. 4.10. Purchased 10-01-2010 w/229090 miles, w/worn clutch linkage for $1395, fixed the clutch function for $25 in parts and drove it off the lot!! 11-29-2010 @ 233122 miles=Baldwin P2818/DIY Tymar and BB mod. 12-26-2010 @ 233944 miles=heim joint mod. The rest is stock, for now. Looking to increase power and MPG's!
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Old 01-05-2011, 11:46 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Catch22, thanks for the reply man. Def going to give it a go in a day or two.
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Old 04-04-2011, 02:03 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Any other tricks involved in removing the pedal assembly? I am about to do this due to wear on the clutch master cyl. end. The replacement bushing I got in the kit doesn't fill the egg shaped hole I have. Truck is new to me and PO neglected this for a long time. My interior is gutted as present, including the dashboard, so this is the prime opportunity for a pedal box rebuild. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks
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