Cold start, engine dies then won't start

[bobsim]

Hi Folks,

Thanks for the all the info here. I have a '96 F250 Supercab with the 7.3 Powerstroke, just under 300,000 miles on her. Everthing is stock except the manual locking hubs. She's been gold and this is the first time she won't get up and go.

This morning it's about 28° out when I tried to leave, started as normal but died suddenly after running for a few seconds. She cranks well but won't fire also the 'wait to start engine' light doesn't come on. I replaced the 30 amp #22 fuse (it was blown) tried again and same thing - cranks well but no fire and the wait to start light is still out. Changed the fuse thinking I may have had a bad one but same results.

Any thoughts out there?

I'm away from home and don't know any mechanics in the Richmond Va area either so if anyone has a suggestion, I'm like Ross Perot......I'm all ears!

[DaveH.]

If the #22 fuse was blown and blew after you replaced it, I would bet the fuel heater element is bad inside fuel housing.
There is a connector on the side of the fuel housing that is the fuel heater lead, disconnect that and leave loose, you dont really need it and then make sure the #22 fuse is replaced and try to start it.

[Churcz]

Is your tach moving at all, and also did you try it off of a cold start or did you have it plugged up...

[bobsim]

Thanks for helping guys. The fuse did not blow after I replaced it. There is no movement on the tach while cranking either. I will unplug the fuel heater but am curious if that has something to do with the 'Wait to start engine' light? that light is still not coming on and I've checked all the fuses and they look good.

[bobsim]

By the way - I have had the engine heater plugged in for over 7 hours now and just tried to start her again with no luck.

[Churcz]

It may be your Crank Position Sensor.....If the tach isn't moving that may be your problem

[bobsim]

Churchz, I have replaced that sensor a few times in the past. I don't think the sensor ever kept the engine from starting but I do remember it sure ran rough while the sensor was bad. Is there a connection between the CPS and the pre heat system? I don't remember the 'wait to start' light not coming on when the CPS was bad before.

This is the first time the engine just stopped running. Stopped quick too seemed more like spark than fuel.

Appreciate the help, Bob.

[dirtyb15]

Must be the time for it, i just had the same thing happen to me yesterday. It was indeed the fuel bowl heater, i unplugged the lead, replaced the fuse, the wait to start light started working again and i was back in business.

[DaveH.]

If the cps is bad, it will cause the tack not to move, so it still could be bad, but not having the "wait to start" light coming on is ussually the #22 fuse hich also powers the ecm/pcm, and others have said that they replaced the fuse and it looked good only to find out that it was still bad, I would atleast try replacing the fuse again and making sure the fuel heater is unplugged and try it again.

[bobsim]

Thanks Guys,

Tomorrow I'll replace the sensor and check the fuses again. I'll post results.

[madpogue]

[QUOTE=bobsim;2246614I will unplug the fuel heater but am curious if that has something to do with the 'Wait to start engine' light? that light is still not coming on and I've checked all the fuses and they look good.[/QUOTE] It has everything to do with it. The fuel heater shorts out and blows fuse #22. This means no power to the PCM, no WTS light, no start. Blown fuses frequently "look" good. TEST it, and DO NOT replace it (unless you want to waste another one) until AFTER you've disconnected the fuel heater.

[bobsim]

You guys are good! The #22 fuse was blown, as well as the #21. I have the bowl heater disconnected and new fuses in. She cranks well, wts light is back on and tach has movement but she won't fire. Any more suggestions? Thanks!

[bobsim]

OK, I'm thinking I unplugged the wrong connection. It was a five prong on the passenger side of the bowl and just too easy to unplug. I've done more searching and found a red and yellow wire with a dime sized plug on the drivers side of the bowl does this sound right? There is another sender looking connection below it. I guess what I'm asking here is what exactly does the heater wire connection look like? Thanks.

[madpogue]

Heater wire should be red/green (green might look yellow?), and it's a single-wire connector.

[bobsim]

That was it, she's running like a scalded dog! Great forum, thanks again!