Well, I assumed I had a hose that went, so I sprayed "Simple Green" on the engine to give it a cleaning and get some of the coolant off that had sprayed all over. I then poured some coolant into the reservior (it was empty) and as fast as I poured it in, it was coming out from where ever! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img]
I crawled under the truck, and it's running/dripping from below the crank area...right in front of the pan.
So, I will assume that the waterpump is toast, or the gasket for the waterpump? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
I believe the weep hole is at the bottom of the waterpump, of which would be impossible to see, with all the parts in the way...thus assumpuptions are all I have to go on!
I've never changed my waterpump, although a new one was installed not long after I bought the truck new, on warranty. Is it a pretty easy job?
It looks like the serp belt would come off, then the clutch fan...to get at the pump. Then the top hose from rad, as well as I have one coming from the heater core. Then there would be a bottom hose, and that should be it!
Clean old gasket off block, put on new pump (use RTV silicone?) plug any holes that are plugged on old pump, install a new thermostat, and "Bobs's your uncle"! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
Anything I've missed, or tips in general? Then there's a pump with a filter I've heard of...would they fit a '95? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
How many gallons of coolant are needed? How many bottles of SCA additive? Any particular brand of coolant I should use...or stay away from? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
Thanks in advance for any advice!
Dale
__________________
2009 F450 Superduty King Ranch
6.4 Diesel, 4.30's.
[ QUOTE ]
Well, I assumed I had a hose that went, so I sprayed "Simple Green" on the engine to give it a cleaning and get some of the coolant off that had sprayed all over. I then poured some coolant into the reservior (it was empty) and as fast as I poured it in, it was coming out from where ever! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img]
I crawled under the truck, and it's running/dripping from below the crank area...right in front of the pan.
So, I will assume that the waterpump is toast, or the gasket for the waterpump? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
I believe the weep hole is at the bottom of the waterpump, of which would be impossible to see, with all the parts in the way...thus assumpuptions are all I have to go on!
I've never changed my waterpump, although a new one was installed not long after I bought the truck new, on warranty. Is it a pretty easy job?
It looks like the serp belt would come off, then the clutch fan...to get at the pump. Then the top hose from rad, as well as I have one coming from the heater core. Then there would be a bottom hose, and that should be it!
Clean old gasket off block, put on new pump (use RTV silicone?) plug any holes that are plugged on old pump, install a new thermostat, and "Bobs's your uncle"! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
Anything I've missed, or tips in general? Then there's a pump with a filter I've heard of...would they fit a '95? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
How many gallons of coolant are needed? How many bottles of SCA additive? Any particular brand of coolant I should use...or stay away from? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
Thanks in advance for any advice!
Dale
[/ QUOTE ]
The weep hole is only about 1/8" or so and is on the bottom of the waterpump (use a mirror). I wouldn't expect to be getting gallons per minute out of it.
The water pump is not hard and there are several excellent write-ups on links on the forum (do a search on it - that's how I found them back when I did my WP).
You will need a fan wrench -- I copied another member's idea and made one from some flat steel with a sawzall, but I think several autoparts stores will loan them. It's way bigger and narrower than any normal wrench you're likely to have. That's the only real pain.
If I remember right (I did mine a year or so ago) the gasket is actually a seal (like an oring) but the write-ups go into all that.
The fluid with SCA already is added is available to make it easier.
-I always do a system and block drain and flush prior to pulling the pump
-No silicone or any other type of sealant on the o-ring (used in place of a standard type gasket) I use a little dielectric grease to hold the o-ring in place.
-Pay attention to which holes the bolts came out of (there are different lengths of bolts used)
-pay close attention to the thermostat and housing assembly, if they are dirty, bent or installed incorrectly, it will leak. Bending the bolt "ears" up slightly on the thermostat housing will put greater pressure on the thermostat o-ring and prevent leaks.
-after assembly and refill it can take awhile of running/driving to "burp" out all the air from the system.
Good Luck!
__________________ BigBopper 97 F-350 CC XLT 4X4 PSD, E4OD and a few other goodies...
my pump went a couple of years ago so I'm a little rusty on the procedure for changing the pump. What I do rememember is that I was able to see the coolant dripping out of the weep hole at the lowest point on the front of the pump. In other words there was no mystery where it was coming from. Did you have your engine running when you filled the resevoir, if not, I don't see how the coolant could be leaking out of the pump as you poured it into the resevoir, sounds odd. Hey, I just remembered, my winshield washer tank, right beside the resevoir on my truck, at one time sprang a leak because it had a hole worn into the bottom just from rubbing on something under it, just above the inner fender. May want to pull your resevoir first and make sure its not the cause of the leak, thats a whole lot easier to fix than the water pump.
To switch the pump the greatest pain is getting the fan off. As mentioned you need a special wrench to hold the fan, and another one to loosen the bolt. I used a pipe wrench for the latter but had to buy the tool to hold the fan, can't remember what it cost, but if you find it outragesly expensive drop me a pm and I'll throw mine on the bus down to you. Once the fan is off the pump is relatively easy, just keep track of where the bolts came from cause two (I think) of them are a different length from the rest. My pump came with a new gasket and everything that was required. I already had a coolant filter installed so I went with a straight replacement, but if I had to do it again I would put in the International pump with the filter hanging off the bottom, a much better place for heavy crud to settle out, IMHO. One last point, you can get the filters precharged with SCA, way cool. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
__________________
'94 F250 Reg Cab 4x4 PSD 5spd, 3:55 gears, front extra leaf & Rancho shocks, LuK clutch and SMFW, K&N air filter, and a coolant filter.
Are there any changes or expectations that might differ from This Writeup on a water pump install? Any guesses as to what a waterpump is worth these days?
Are there certain years that differ, with regard to waterpumps, as when doing a quick search on Ebay, they put '96 & '97 together...but emit putting years '94 & '95 for some reason??
[ QUOTE ]
Well, I assumed I had a hose that went, so I sprayed "Simple Green" on the engine to give it a cleaning and get some of the coolant off that had sprayed all over. I then poured some coolant into the reservior (it was empty) and as fast as I poured it in, it was coming out from where ever! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img]
I crawled under the truck, and it's running/dripping from below the crank area...right in front of the pan.
So, I will assume that the waterpump is toast, or the gasket for the waterpump? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
I believe the weep hole is at the bottom of the waterpump, of which would be impossible to see, with all the parts in the way...thus assumpuptions are all I have to go on!
I've never changed my waterpump, although a new one was installed not long after I bought the truck new, on warranty. Is it a pretty easy job?
It looks like the serp belt would come off, then the clutch fan...to get at the pump. Then the top hose from rad, as well as I have one coming from the heater core. Then there would be a bottom hose, and that should be it!
Clean old gasket off block, put on new pump (use RTV silicone?) plug any holes that are plugged on old pump, install a new thermostat, and "Bobs's your uncle"! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
Anything I've missed, or tips in general? Then there's a pump with a filter I've heard of...would they fit a '95? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
How many gallons of coolant are needed? How many bottles of SCA additive? Any particular brand of coolant I should use...or stay away from? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
yup, and refill teh top rad hose too then run it and carry a gallon with you, it will heat up til the stat opens then use coolant again. not a hard job at all use the air hammer to knock off the fan.
__________________ Sold to JCart , 1997 F250 FireTruck Red,CC SB,auto( Presicion TC, HD-2Tugger),5" exhaust, Swamp 140cc injectors, TWildman 4-pos chip,open air cleaner, I/C w Banks intake, ,AIC,dual electric fans,Sky mfg RSK w/ D60w/ARB locker,she's well taken care of now pictures
2004 Dodge 3500 twin turbo 525hp rocket
Hmmm....sounds like this "fan" is going to be the tough part. I see what looks like four small bolts holding the fan to the pulley...are these the bolts that you take out? Not quite sure where this special large wrench fits on...will have to get in and look at it again! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
Is there a specific way to fill the system again afterwards, other than just filling the reservior?
I'll try that "system" flush...but wondered if the thermostat would be in the way of water getting right through...there again, it should be "open" correct?
Or is it closed until it heats up?? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif[/img]
It's been alot of years since I tackled a waterpump job, although back in the old days it was a much easier job on the cars for the 60's & '70's! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
I have my shopping list...so I best get out and pick up what's needed in the morning!
[ QUOTE ]
Hmmm....sounds like this "fan" is going to be the tough part. I see what looks like four small bolts holding the fan to the pulley...are these the bolts that you take out? Not quite sure where this special large wrench fits on...will have to get in and look at it again! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
Is there a specific way to fill the system again afterwards, other than just filling the reservior?
I'll try that "system" flush...but wondered if the thermostat would be in the way of water getting right through...there again, it should be "open" correct?
Or is it closed until it heats up?? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif[/img]
It's been alot of years since I tackled a waterpump job, although back in the old days it was a much easier job on the cars for the 60's & '70's! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
I have my shopping list...so I best get out and pick up what's needed in the morning!
Thanks..
Dale
[/ QUOTE ]
No, you take off the large 1 7/8" nut. It is the one between the fan clutch and the waterpump itself. The fan will come off with the clutch as one piece. If you remove the 4 small bolts that will only remove the fan from the clutch.
don't remove teh bolts jsut teh one really big nut, and its reg right hand thread, I sjut use an air hammer on it to get it to move, then unscrew the fan and clutch, tehn you can get teh water pump out, about 10 bolts hold it on, adn the three that hold the neck on are a pain, plus is you snap one off , well don't ask [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img]
Let me know if you want help, I am around most of this week, I can drop by your place, and run teh air gun off my truck
__________________ Sold to JCart , 1997 F250 FireTruck Red,CC SB,auto( Presicion TC, HD-2Tugger),5" exhaust, Swamp 140cc injectors, TWildman 4-pos chip,open air cleaner, I/C w Banks intake, ,AIC,dual electric fans,Sky mfg RSK w/ D60w/ARB locker,she's well taken care of now pictures
2004 Dodge 3500 twin turbo 525hp rocket
As a suggestion, on installing the T-stat bolts (three little ones which hold the neck on) use some copper coat or other quality anti-seize on the bolt threads. I once remember breaking the back bolt off because the T-stat leaked at the neck/housing inter-face and seized the threads......truck was on warrenty then...... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img]....Local dealership fixed for the $100.00 deductable..... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]
I also made a gasket to go between the neck and T-stat housing as well as I never thought of benting the "ears up" on the neck as BigBopper mentioned.
As an alternative to the IH filter/waterpump check out my pictures in link below for my filter install.
T/C,
jrc
__________________
97 XLT F250 CC ZF-5 (now ) DIY short shifter 355's D60 air locked T Wildman files, 'jectors, SD Hpop, DIY E-fans, IC, DP 4" exhaust, SS resonator, RSK, SD springs all corners, Velvet rides, Custom Aluminum Drybox/fuel tank, air bags, E-air compressor, VisionX HID/LED's, E fuel, F26D rear tank, E-fan Tranny oil cooler. http://community.webshots.com/user/jcart44
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) DIY short shifter 355's D60 air locked T Wildman files, 'jectors, SD Hpop, DIY E-fans, IC, DP 4" exhaust, SS resonator, RSK, SD springs all corners, Velvet rides, Custom Aluminum Drybox/fuel tank, air bags, E-air compressor, VisionX HID/LED's, E fuel, F26D rear tank, E-fan Tranny oil cooler. 
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