I want to know how you guys in the north, warm up your trucks before you drive them. What is the correct way to warm them up in cold weather so you don't do any excessive damage on the engine? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]
I gotta agree with Casey. It was 18 degrees here last night and I did not plug the truck in. DUH [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img] Started fine with the GP's and I was on my way as soon as the oil pressure came up. That said, I do live on a nice long lonely country road, so nobody is behind me in a hurry to get to work.
97 F250 CC PS Tymar intake, 3" downpipe, 4" exhaust, turbo muffler installed backwards, 299,000 miles, running B100 when possible. "NEW 90 F450
Because diesels don't warm up very well at idle. They use A LOT of cold air, and not a lot of diesel fuel at idle, so there isn't a lot of heat generated. In some cases the engine will stay cold enough at idle that some fuel won't burn and it will wash the oil off the cylinders.
I turn the ignition to 'run', click on my seat belt, wait for the light to go off, count to 5 (extra time heating the cylinder can't hurt [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] ), then crank her over.
I take a look around the cab to see if anything is amiss, plug in my phone if needbe, change CD if needbe, then once the plugs are off (I have an LED hooked into the glow plug side of the relay or you can tell by the Voltmeter returning back to around the middle) I take off.
I live around 1.1 or so miles from the interstate and between the house and it is just the neighborhood. Once I get out of the neighborhood, I go up to around 45 for about a 1/2 mile, then highway speed.
It seems a little involved typing it out, but this is the routine I use every single time I get into the truck and it's become second nature.
You pretty much need to put a load on the engine to get her warmed up. Even at high idle (1000+ rpms) it gets only so warm.
__________________ 1997 (Built 2/97 Ours since 2/02) F-250 HD Ext Cab XLT
PSD, TDE1, LWB, Auto, 4.10, 4x4, Manual Hubs, Overloads, White Century Topper Mods:GP and Door Chime Bypasses , DPPI Downpipe, Bilsteins, Autometer Z-Series (Pyro, Tranny Temp, Boost) in Rockin S Pod, Tymar Intake and Coolant Filter, Tru-Cool Trans Cooler, Magnefine Trans Filter TDS Mods: Gutterguarded Grill, <$10 Cold Air Intake, FPR Shimmed @ 70psi
I really don't know if you are doing damage per se, but it's not really getting warmed up. Especially if you are just letting it idle at normal idle speed. You are letting the oil circulate, which is good, but the engine is not getting warm.
It's preferred to let it idle at a higher RPM like 1000-1300 to keep the cylinders nice and warm for complete combustion. Otherwise, you will encounter a condition called 'wetstaking' which basically is washing the cylinder (fuel getting past the rings) and can lead to carbon deposits.
That's how I understand it. If I'm wrong, the folks here are good about getting the info straight. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]
I crank her up, let the glow plugs get done cycling, then idle it up to about 1000 rpm for about 10-15 minutes until you generate a little heat. It also depends on how cold it is............Dave
__________________ Dave 11 #3
FOREVER THE MAN
LEGENDS NEVER DIE
1997 F350 CC DRW 4X4, Black. Centaurus2 conversion. Banks IC & powdercoated tubes. Stage 2's by Full Force Performance,BDP Dom 66, BDP Fuel system , TS 6 pos chip with Bills & T Wildmans burns, AFE intake, 4" exhaust. Gear Vendor Overdrive. E4OD with Suncoast Pro-Loc TC, 4.10 gears. Sky's RSK, Kelderman air ride, Bilsteins, 40 gal Transfer Flow. Alcoa's. Pioneer stereo, full floor and overhead console.
When cold mine runs horrible if i don't let it warm up.
That being said no matter how warm it is out I go start my truck go inside and shave/brush hair make lunch real quick and go out to drive.
1996 F-250 extended cab long box five speed. Home made Tymar, 203 Stat, 60 gal in bed fuel cell, 315/75's, no muffler, ebpv welded open 3" to 3" DP, Babies. 290K, still chugging, and still smoking when cold.
UPDATED 1/1/09 Replace so far. 1 LUK flywheel+clutch, 2 thermostats, 2 set of brakes, 1 set of calipers, 5 CPS, 3 sets of tires, 2 Transfer pumps, 1 Injector modual, 1 Computer, 2 Alt, 2 sets of batteries, 1 Water pump, 6 Belts, 1 PS hose, 2 Sets ball joints, 2 set u-joints, 2 carrier bearing, 2 Speed sensors, 1 oil pres sender, 1 temp sender, 4 sets of e-break cables, 1 front fuel tank, 2 rear fuel tanks, 2 set of glow plugs, 7 Glow plug relays, Oil galley o-rings, Turbo pedistal o-rings, EBPV o-rings, 3 sets of Injector O-rings, 1 Vac-pump, 1 new carpet, 1 total paint job.Total $$$ in repairs v/s miles driven = 4.6 cents per mile. Add fuel to that it jumps to 16.5 cents per mile over the life of the truck.
I realized how cold these things idle after I changed out my water pump last week. Let it sit and idle waiting for the t-stat to open and pressurized the top coolant line to check for any leaks. Never happened. Finnaly took off down the road and she open.
I guess I just feel comforatable letting it "warm up" per se on those cold mornings. I bought her new in 1996 and have put 140,000 miles on it, So I guess I havent done any damage since I havent had any engine issues.
Thanks for the input.
96 F-250 PS 4X4 Supercab, Manual Hubs, 3:55 rear-End, Longbed, Green & Green, Rear Air Bags, Goose Neck, Jasper Tranny, Rhino Lined, DP, basically stock, 150,000 miles
I agree with Casey also. Any amount of time an engine, gas or diesel,
operates while not at temperature causes increased wear. The quicker
you can get it there the better, within reason. I follow the start the
vehicle up, put on the seat belt, and drive away slowly. Just don't
drive it hard until it's up to temp. Does it work, the most miles
I've put on a vehicle was 360K on a '71 Olds 350 gasser without any
engine work. It didn't "burn" oil either. So far it's worked for
me. I do work an engine after it's warmed up properly though. I expect
my truck to pull the boat very well and it does. I just don't hammer
it when I first hook up! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
1997 F250 HD PSD 4x4 OR Auto 3.55LS CC SRW SWB 265x75x16 Michelin LTX DP 211K mi.; Ford AIC; Fuel milege; 20.3 mpg @ 70 mph. 12.5 mpg pulling my boat,12.5K, along two lane rural roads. A number of mods ordered from DaleI. Nice round replacement DP. FS2500 by-pass oil filter installed. Fumoto drain valve. Tymar Intake installed! HX mod from Tymar installed. TFI fillneck kits installed. Auto-Rx cleaner in engine & transmission done. Switched from Rotella dino to Rotella synthetic. Amsoil 5W-30 Series 3000 installed!
FS-2500 Bypass filter installed.
Velvet rides installed. Joe Servo IDM mod installed. Rear air lift springs.
I just reread the thread and found what Casey said. I missed it the first time. He got it right. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
I guess this brings up a question "What is considered driving it 'too hard' while cold?
I don't hit it hard out the gate by any means, I get up to speed gently, but I do let it spin as much as it wants too. By the time I need to hit 45, the temp needle has moved a little, then by the interstate, it's between the 'C' mark and the low mark on 'Normal'.
I go out start mine turn on the EBPV then do whatever I need then leave according to my pyro it idles at 400 degs. and everything I have read so far states at least 300 degs. to burn all the fuel [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img] besides it couldn't fight its way out of a wet paper bag when cold [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
Navistar had a problem with bent push tubes on the 444E when the trucks were being idled in cold ambient temps. They state that when idled and being cold it will cause a build up of carbon and varnish on the valve stems which can result in valves sticking. They say to maintain a minimum of 1250rpm and if you do idle it for beyond 10 minutes not to shut engine off but to drive it and burn off any accumulated carbon and varnish.
96' F-250 4x4 SB Crewcab, 3.55 gears, rebuilt E4od, Air bags, 2" leveler kit, 10 disc cd changer, Tymar intake, Tymar 4 pos TS chip, 4590 cooler, boost, pyro(pre-turbo) & tranny temp AutoMeter gauges mounted in pillar, Diamond eye 4" exhaust with lost kitty, Tymar 3x4" downpipe, Warn hubs, Prodigy brake controller, Hypermax intercooler, CCV mod,17* HPOP, stage 1 injectors, fpr. Rebuilt tranny with pump and valve body mods, 3 disc torque convertor. Diesel mechanic 20+ years
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