Thats what i would do instead of throwing a lpop at it, they arent cheap..
We need to verify your lpop is good before we go any further.
we verified that the lpop is bad over the weekend. but i bought my buddies truck for parts so i should just be able to swap them out... or am i oversimplifying it?
Even though its a pain one good thing about the HEUI system is that the engine wont run if the low pressure oil pump goes out. At least there's no chance of running the motor with no lube. I know that doesn't help but maybe it will cheer you up a little. :-) Good Luck.
It does cheer me up considering I did have an oil leak and constantly worried about burning something up.
we verified that the lpop is bad over the weekend. but i bought my buddies truck for parts so i should just be able to swap them out... or am i oversimplifying it?
Sure, not a whole lot of work.
There are some air gap measurements you can take of the lpop. Lay the housing, with the gears inside, facing up. Place a straight edge, bridging from side to side, across the housing. If a .003 feeler gauge fits under the straight edge and the gears, its worn out.
This is good news actually.
__________________
Randy
Midnight black '94 * F-250 * 4x4 * ZF-5 * 3:55 * cc/lwb * RDS Single Shot Stage I's* TDP 6pos chip * BDP electric fuel * BDP D-66 Turbo * IDM Mod * Hypermax 3x4" dp * Authentic Tymar intake* 7.3 Intercooler * gutted ebpv * 4" exhaust & 5" tip * LUK clutch * A-pillar pod w/ Auto Meter NV boost, pyro and water temp gauges * reverse dash lighting and hvac controls * Optima yellow top batts D75/25, both on the right side * HPO X-over mod * manually controlled gp's * cruise control mod * add-a-leaf (front) * AC mod
LPOP is behind the harmonic balancer. If it truly is worn out it doesn't speak well for how well your engine was maintained.
95's had a problem where the pick-up tube would crack up high and suck air instead of oil. That is why a previous poster suggested over-filling and jacking up the rear of the truck. This submerges the cracked part of the tube and will tell you is that is the problem.
Someone on here had a similar problem to yours and it was just loose bolts that hold the LPOP to the engine. Again, sucking air.
__________________
97 F350 SW CC 4X4 Auto, IDM mod, TW six position, DIY Stage I's, Beans D66 Turbo & 3" DP, 4" straight exhaust, Mobil 1 ATF, Tru-Cool 28k, Fuel filler mod, 99 Intercooler, Open Air Filter, SmittyBuilt stainless nerf bars, Trans-go tugger kit and Billet TC
04.5 Dodge 2500 QC 4X4 600 Cummins auto (work truck), 72 Mach I 552 stroker
i pulled the lpop last night. (did not remove the whole tube just the gears themselves but will remove the tube also) I should be able to just remove the motor mounts, loosen the transmission bolts, and jack the motor up high enough to pull the oil pan off (thats how we swaped the oil pan off of another powerstroke)
i pulled the lpop last night. (did not remove the whole tube just the gears themselves but will remove the tube also) I should be able to just remove the motor mounts, loosen the transmission bolts, and jack the motor up high enough to pull the oil pan off (thats how we swaped the oil pan off of another powerstroke)
Really did you pull the oil pan off just doing that? I think thats a VERY good info because most people (or better said, all people ) said that you have to pull out the engine or cut the crossmember to change the oil pan .
when you start to jack up the motor it will want to lean to one side more than the other (i cant remember which side). use 2x4 blocks between the motor mount brackets and the frame to hold up the engine once you have it jacked up. slide a 2x4 in sideways in whichever side has the bigger gap. a 2x4 should be slid in flat-ways in the side with the smaller gap. This will allow just barely enough room to remove the pan. (i mean you will have to jiggle and wiggle the pan). It worked for me (removing and replacing the pan)
when you start to jack up the motor it will want to lean to one side more than the other (i cant remember which side). use 2x4 blocks between the motor mount brackets and the frame to hold up the engine once you have it jacked up. slide a 2x4 in sideways in whichever side has the bigger gap. a 2x4 should be slid in flat-ways in the side with the smaller gap. This will allow just barely enough room to remove the pan. (i mean you will have to jiggle and wiggle the pan). It worked for me (removing and replacing the pan)
Ok, thank for your response. When you jack up the motor, doesnt the turbo difficult that?
yes it does. thats what makes it still difficult to remove. be sure you have plenty of play in your hoses before you start jacking it up though (i lost my powersteering fluid on the first go around)
The low pressure oil relief valve is in the oil filter mount facing the block. This could be your problem too.
I got my truck cheap (for the time) because it had no oil pressure at idle. It was the relief valve stuck open. Fixed it for $0. The truck started and ran fine though even with the valve stuck.
__________________
97 F350 SW CC 4X4 Auto, IDM mod, TW six position, DIY Stage I's, Beans D66 Turbo & 3" DP, 4" straight exhaust, Mobil 1 ATF, Tru-Cool 28k, Fuel filler mod, 99 Intercooler, Open Air Filter, SmittyBuilt stainless nerf bars, Trans-go tugger kit and Billet TC
04.5 Dodge 2500 QC 4X4 600 Cummins auto (work truck), 72 Mach I 552 stroker
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
because most people (or better said, all people 
) said that you have to pull out the engine or cut the crossmember to change the oil pan .
Linear Mode
