I thought I've always heard that although ULSD has lower sulfur and hence some lubricating properties have been removed, sufficient lubrication has been added back in. (I know sulfur doesn't lubricate, the process of removing it removes lubrication.)
Just the other day, a popular radio personality on the AM station in San Antonio who owns a good size mechanic shop said that some diesels older than 2002 or so would require the addition of a fuel lubricant (added by the owner). This guy is a straight shooter and I don't think he'd be saying that just to sell product.
Is there any difinitive answer on if we really do or not? I know it may be good, but I don't want to if I don't need to spend the money. Any hard data showing one way or the other?
Thanks,
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Travis
1997 F-250 HD 4x4/OR SC LB XLT PSD E4OD 3.55LS, TDE1, Baby Swamps (150/146/A), BTS Trans, BTS programming, Front and Rear Replacements, Gooseneck, Autometer Pyro, Trans Temp and Boost in Rockin' S Pod, Cab/Clearance Lights installed, Tymar style intake, 6.0 Intercooler, Tru-Cool Max tranny cooler, Warn Premium Hubs, Shimmed FPR, Gutted EBPV, Super Duty 3" DP, 4" Exhaust, 175,000 mi., 7400 lbs., 310 HP 559 TQ
My stepfather, who is a diesel mechanic told me we do. I used Amsoil's additive until a gas station near me started selling B20 biodiesel. A study I read stated B5 lubricated better than regular diesel. So I figured B20 will do the trick.
They say we don't need any additives but I using 2 stroke oil from Wall-Mart. About $7.50 a gal at the rate of 1 oz per gal. Been using it for about 9 months now and feel it is good insurance for the parts.
Jim
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2001, F250 4x4, CC, Auto; Mobil 1 in transfer case&Trans.; Frantz Bypass Filter; "Hutch" fuel mods; Sonnax/Tricum mod; 4" Exhaust, 30" MagnaFlow; Attitude in A-Pillar and tranny gauge in Dash; AIS; EASE Diagnostics; Reese Slider Hitch; Fr Rotors, Cryo Treated&Slotted by ART.
Scan the recent archives and count how many fuel pump failure threads since the introduction of ULSD. I think you'll be shocked. I always add some biodiesel for lubricity these days.
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1997 F-350 PSD XLT RC 4x4 E4OD
303K miles and still running very strong
Using WVO and biodiesel since May 2006
A lot of folks on here are like I am. It is 100 miles to the nearest bio-diesel station and I don't have the time to make it myself.
So I have been trying the Wal-Mart 2 stroke oil. It quites the engine along with lubicating. A year ago I sent in a oil sample and it came back with a 5% fuel dilution in the oil and suggested that I needed new injector O rings. Just after that I started to run the 2 stroke in my fuel and the last two oil samples came back with no problems. I don't know if it was a coinidence or not but I think that I'll run it until I see a problem with it.
Jim
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96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages,Dark Toumaline, add a leaf,Dale's TYMAR,and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter with coolant eye
I would love to run biodiesel but there are no stations around here, and I'm not driving 100 miles to get it.
I've heard we need it too. Hearing is not good enough for me, I want data.
What type of fuel pump failures are being seen lately? External leaks due to the diaphragm rupturing? I don't think ULSD would cause that, but I really don't know.
That test was downright assinine. Who of us can to go a station and buy untreated ULSD? Yeah it was a great study for comparing the additives, but I want to know how ULSD scores on its own, as I would get it at the pump.
Still no data to justify that I should be spending $1 to $2 per tank on an extra additive...
Thanks,
__________________
Travis
1997 F-250 HD 4x4/OR SC LB XLT PSD E4OD 3.55LS, TDE1, Baby Swamps (150/146/A), BTS Trans, BTS programming, Front and Rear Replacements, Gooseneck, Autometer Pyro, Trans Temp and Boost in Rockin' S Pod, Cab/Clearance Lights installed, Tymar style intake, 6.0 Intercooler, Tru-Cool Max tranny cooler, Warn Premium Hubs, Shimmed FPR, Gutted EBPV, Super Duty 3" DP, 4" Exhaust, 175,000 mi., 7400 lbs., 310 HP 559 TQ
After reading the study on lubricity I use 8oz of Redline two stroke oil per tank. That works out to 200:1 ratio. This oil can be run at 100:1 providing all the lubrication for a two stroke engine so I figure half that much oil should help enough.
Vince
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1997 California F250 XLT HD Ext Cab LB 4X4
3.55LS & Tow Package
Banks Techni-cooler intercooler
Luk Heavy Duty clutch and single mass flywheel
Tymar 3 to 4 inch down pipe
Tymar Intake
4 position TW chip
4 inch exhaust
Pyrometer guage installed in a-piller
Bilstein shocks
A lot of folks on here are like I am. It is 100 miles to the nearest bio-diesel station and I don't have the time to make it myself.
So I have been trying the Wal-Mart 2 stroke oil. It quites the engine along with lubicating. A year ago I sent in a oil sample and it came back with a 5% fuel dilution in the oil and suggested that I needed new injector O rings. Just after that I started to run the 2 stroke in my fuel and the last two oil samples came back with no problems. I don't know if it was a coinidence or not but I think that I'll run it until I see a problem with it.
Jim
Hi Jim,
Since we are both in Colorado (you most likely have colder temps to worry about), I was wondering: Have you had any cold issues using the 2 stroke oil? I'm thinking about running that as well and would like to hear from you. The fact that the oil analysis have come back fine is very encouraging.
Thanks!
JB
__________________ 1997 (Built 2/97 Ours since 2/02) F-250 HD Ext Cab XLT
PSD, TDE1, LWB, Auto, 4.10, 4x4, Manual Hubs, Overloads, White Century Topper Mods:GP and Door Chime Bypasses , DPPI Downpipe, Bilsteins, Autometer Z-Series (Pyro, Tranny Temp, Boost) in Rockin S Pod, Tymar Intake and Coolant Filter, Tru-Cool Trans Cooler, Magnefine Trans Filter TDS Mods: Gutterguarded Grill, <$10 Cold Air Intake, FPR Shimmed @ 70psi
First off let me say I'm no expert. This is just my opinion through personal research. In my experience with off road equipment and the recent changes in fuel and emmissions regulations, there are many reasons for concern about ULSD. The removal of sulfur does affect the lubrication qualities of diesel. These properties are supposed to be added back to the fuel via additives by diesel suppliers, but I dont think they are regulated by the government. So this could vary from supplier to supplier. All the more reason to purchase fuel from a reliable source, but still no gaurantee. Also sufur causes rubber to expand, i.e injector orings, and removing it causes these to return to normal state. This can lead to leaks in engines that have previously run on LSD. Now if you have a new truck and it has only seen ULSD, than this will likely not be an issue. But on our 94-97's this could be troublesome. I've also heard that ULSD will gel at warmer temperatures, again this depends on where you buy your "winter blend" and if they are using the proper additives. All this leads me to believe that spending a couple bucks extra per fillup for a good additive is well worth it. Unless you can know for sure what is done to the fuel where you buy it and thats the only place you ever fill up, its good insurance. As far as additives go I've heard about 2-stroke, 30SAE, trannyfluid, etc. but Ive never seen one piece of data to back this up other than "my gramps has done it for 30 years...". I would put my money on companies like Powerservice and the likes who specialize in this very thing.
Better safe than sorry.
Just my big 2 cents.
Jason
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'96 F-350XLT 4x4, 7.3L, 175K, 3.55, E4OD, Western Pro Plow, AutoMeter Phantom II's, Tymar intake, 3" DPPI D.P. and 3.5" cat delete, 4" single stack kit from Black Cloud, 5"x36" mitre cut S.S. stack from MBRP, Gutted EBPV, Cali FPR, Stancor GPR, 215 Amp Alternator,Custom Battery Cables, SD starter, TS 6 Pos Chip Truck Pics
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