I recently replaced the front rotors on my '96 F350 dually (4WD). I had to basically had to destroy two of the dually studs to get them out, the ones that hold the wheel adapter onto the brake disc, not the studs that go through the brake disc.
I tried to get some new ones at a local Westwood parts store, but they couldn't find anything available. I imagine they will have to come from Ford. Before I paid their price for them (I haven't called them yet), I would like to know what they are going for online. I wouldn't be surprised if they were expensive. The problem is, I can't even find a picture of them online. I may not be searching for the right thing. "Ford dually wheel stud" doesn't bring back anything relevant.
To clarify, these studs are female on one end and male on the other end. They screw onto the "normal" studs and extend the wheel mounting studs out past the dually hub spacer.
Are these things known by a different name other than "dually wheel stud"?
It may be dual wheel adapter stud. Do you know how your truck became a dually 4x4? Ford never sold them this way. You could get a 4x4 chassis cab and add a bed to it or buy a converted SRW 4x4 that used the 3" rear SRW brakes with adapters. This is how my 96 is done. I don't recall ever having the front wheels off of my 1996 so I'm not sure how it is done on that end. On your drivers door jamb, is there an added sticker from a converter such as CNS Vehicles Inc, Roll-A-Long or Centurion? All of these did conversions to new vehicles and added a certification sticker on. Many did the conversion themselves. Arrowcraft is one maker of kits and there is another is Southern California but I don't recall their name. You could also source salvage parts by getting a DRW rear end with wheels and then pulling 4x4 chassis cab adapters for the front.
Mine is converted by CNS Vehicles Inc. and uses 5/8" studs instead of the factory dually 9/16" studs. It also uses a lug with a permanently attached washer that rotates free of the nut. Took me forever to find these. Southwest Wheel in Dallas sells them if this is your set up. Their part number for the lug is AA 39946 and they were $3.95 each in 2007.
On the studs, I would suspect many auto parts stores can match one up if you drive it out. NAPA often will have a better assortment of the larger studs. I've bought them there on my SRW trucks. If your truck is converted aftermarket adapters instead of Ford adapters up front I doubt Ford will be of any help. Arrowcraft may be able to help you out. Come to think of it, Southwest Wheel sell DRW conversion kits as well. Dorman supplies most of the auto parts stores with lug studs. They may also be able to help if your local parts guys are unfamiliar/unwilling. Dorman Products
Wow, thanks for the detailed information. It is very much appreciated.
I have emailed both Arrowcraft and Southwest wheel. I'll keep you in the loop on what they say.
I'm also interested in a 10 lug conversion for this truck. This may be a good time to go straight to 10 lug directly from the axle, bypassing the dually adapters. It all depends on the price.
I'll snap a picture of any stickers on the driver's door jam. I'm not sure this conversion was done professionally. The bed was originally maroon and has been painted black, as where the cab looks to have always been black. I would suspect if it was professionally done that both cab and bed would have been born black.
If you strike out, maybe a machine shop can make you one.
Another question, who makes your wheels? On my truck they are aftermarket steel wheels made by Rockwell International.
I'm not sure if anyone makes an 8 to 10 lug adapter. What bolt pattern are you after? The OBS F-Superduty rear ends are true dually rears and use 10 lugs. I believe you also gain rear disc brakes and need the master cylinder and goofy parking brake set up to go with it. Plenty of posts about this you can search.
If you have stock DRW wheels then getting a true 2WD DRW rear out of a 95-97 (other posts claim an improved yolk/pinion in 95) truck, it should pretty much be a bolt in. Maybe parking brake cables are different due to 3.5" wide drums vs. 3". Then use salvage front adapters off off an OBS 4x4 chassis cab. You are then all factory parts and have less headaches on weird conversion parts. You just have to remember which year/model to tell the parts guy what to look at for your Johnny Cash inspired 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59 year model truckomobile. And hope you never find a dealer parts guy who is paralyzed without a VIN number.
In reading your other links I thought I'd give some more info. On Centurian, Roll-A-Long and CNS Vehicles Inc., Ford sent the truck directly the converter who then shipped it to the ordering dealer. It's called "ship-thru" and is the same thing that is done on custom vans and all means of body upfitters. Ford has a huge list of approved upfitters and you can read more here: https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/index.htm In many cases the Ford warranty covers everything. You buy it as you want it from the dealer and their service department fixes it but it may be made with aftermarket parts.
How do you spot one of these DRW conversions? There are several dead giveaways. One is the upfitter label on the drivers door jamb. Another is the factory vehicle data label. Every professional conversion I've seen started with an F-350 SRW crew cab 4x4. A crew cab 4x4 SRW has a GVWR of 9200 pounds. A factory 2X4 crew cab dually has a GVWR of 10,000 pounds or so. So if factory data label shows 9200# it started life as a SRW. The pic of the white XL truck in one of your links shows non DRW wheels on the front. This is the cheap way to convert a truck....just bolt on fenders and rear wheel adapters. Only individuals did it this way. The other thing is to lay on the ground underneath the bed and look at the fenders and how they attach. A factory DRW bed has a huge amount of metal cut out around the wheel opening. A converted truck will just have holes drilled thru the regular bed. This causes another headache if you ever need to replace a fender. Factory DRW fenders will not bolt up as the attachment is completely different. I found this out the hard way. Further complicating matters is there are at least 2 styles of aftermarket fenders. Mine, CNS Vehicles Inc., have about a 1" lip on them that allows installing the rear wheelwell moulding off the SRW trucks. I have seen one Roll-A-Long conversion with a lip. Centurian and Arrowcraft fenders do not have this. I have found no source for the fenders with lip. The factory fenders also do not have a lip.
As you can see from the other threads, there is a big discussion as to the existence of these trucks. It's worse than Santa Claus.
I don't have a door sticker that looks to be from an aftermarket upfitter, but here is my Ford sticker:
9200#, so I'm assuming SRW originally
Here are a couple of shots of the wheels:
Unfortunately, there isn't anything more descriptive on the wheels.
Here's a shot of the rear fender mount:
I'm very impressed with your knowledge of these trucks. This thing has been a quest of mine for quite a while. I'm really not sure why, but I just really like the looks of these trucks. My plan is to basically make it into the ultimate towing machine, so I'm very interested in the 10 lug rear axle you mentioned. I may see if I can dig one of those up. Four-wheel disc would also be great. I may also do a four-link/air bag swap if I can find a good axle at a reasonable price. That would be a little while down the road, though.
Carol from Arrowcraft replied with some good info on the availability of parts. She said getting anything from the original Centurion parts is probably a lost cause. Not surprisingly, they sell just what I need, though. A pair of their front adapters is $305. That may be my best intermediate option until I go 10 lug. That would get me back on the road safely.
You absolutely have Rockwell International wheels. The little rocketship looking logo is theirs. I have yet to find a source for these. These came from a converter, not Ford based on my research. I'm fairly certain you will also use the 5/8" lug nuts. The picture only shows 1/2 the lug to it is hard to say. My 5/8" lugs are stamped something like "150ft-lb". Stock 9/16" lugs have a 140ft-lb torque. My 96 is not conveniently located to me right now so I can't compare the part numbers stamped on the wheel between the lugs. If you do have the 5/8" lugs, you should see if your lug wrench fits it. Mine was modified either by the converter or the previous owner with a craftsman deep socket welded on. Make sure the Arrowcraft adapters will work with your wheels. If they do then that's a great solution. If they use 9/16" studs then factory DRW or aftermarket wheels would have to be sourced.
Your rear fenders are not the lip style. Without crawling under the truck and looking up the fender I can't say if someone stuck a factory dually bed on the truck or if you have Arrowcraft fenders. Either way, replacements are available for you. You mentioned the bed being painted so maybe the truck originally had the lip style and they were damaged. Since they appear to have no new source it is probably cheaper to take a whole salvage bed off a factory dually. I'm looking at $12-1500 to have mine reconstructed. I prefer that route even though it's more expensive because it's one more thing that makes the truck unique.
I'm like you. I think these trucks are just really cool because of their rarity and their stance. My 2002 will run circles around it, out tow it and is stronger in most every way and gets 10% better fuel mileage. It just doesn't have the look and the stance of the OBS though.
Your truck was definitely a single rear wheel. If my shop manual was handy we could decode the VIN further. The "W36" is what denotes body style and it is the same on my 1996. Normally a converter would place an additional sticker above/below/over this sticker. Maybe it never had one, maybe it got removed, maybe the door was replaced. Last one is easy to confirm. Does the door VIN match the dash VIN and the title?
One other tidbit I just recalled is that factory 2WD duallys would have 215 section width tires, not the 235/85-16's that a SRW does.
I was told the truck was originally a service truck. I would assume it was an aftermarket build and whoever installed the service bed also did the dually conversion. That's just a guess, though.
The VIN does match throughout.
I'm leaning toward the Arrowcraft adapters, just as the link you posted suggested. That seems like the safe bet. I'll check to see what stud size they support and check my wheels. Thanks for the heads up on that. I wouldn't have thought to check that.
I eventually changed out my front adapters to the adapters sold by Arrowcraft. I like their design much better. It's quite a bit safer, in my opinion.
I did remove the original adapters and I kept them for quite a few months thinking someone might need them. I even posted them on a few forums, but no one took me up on the offer. They were trashed over a year ago.