Brand new to this diesel thing.
Can anyone tell me the about the challenges involved with dropping an 1996 E350 7.3 PDS into an 1997 f350 with a cracked 7.3 block? A local salvage yard has the e350 "complete" 150,000 mi for $850.0. I'm sure this has been answered on this forum many time but I can't find it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
You have switch / change the Exhaust manifolds, oil dipstick, Valve covers and intake from Turbo out along with all brackets to fit the Econoline Engine in an F Series...Motor mounts are different too...At least I think they are.....All accessory brackets from F-series have to go on the E series motor as well....
95 E350 PSD HD Cargo , BB shim , E4OD , B&M aluminium Trans pan , Twin HD coolers , Cat sleeps with the fishes , 3:55 D60FF, EBPV Delete , DP flashed 60 Tow , 140 V idm , Autometer Triple pod , Bridgestone /Hankook
1977 F350 Dually Dump , 460 , 429 POLICE heads , 4:56 D70FF, Edelbrock Intake , Holley 850 , MSD IGN , Custom C-6 Trans , Dual Exhausts , Bridgestone
If you are just going to swap over everything from your current engine to the long block van engine, I'd imagine you'd be good to go. Of course doing the dipstick and intake plumbing is necessary. The fuel bowl, or bowl drain, I believe is different as well, but I believe it may not be an issue for this application. Use all the current accessories on the front of the truck engine to the van engine. Do the best you can to verify it is a 1996 engine and not a 1997 van engine. I thought the van engines in 1997 went to different injectors and PCM. Split shot injectors I think is what I remember on the vans along with specific destination trucks too in '97. Hopefully someone else who may have done this chimes in. Seems to me though if you are using the short block, you'd be good.
97 F250, 4x4, ext. cab., auto, 4:10LS, Turbo back 4" Stainless Diamons Eye exhaust, Autometer Ultra-Lite gauges, TYMAR intake (the real deal), TS Chip, Dual Tensioner mod, Amsoil Dual Remote By-pass with AMS-Oiler (pre-oiler), Amsoil throughout, D60 swap, and 246K miles (still ticking)
Stong supporter of all US Troops, their families, and all waiting for a safe return. Thank you, from a former soldier and his family
Thank you to the guys that have responded. Your help is really appreciated.
After reading your replies I think that I will look a little harder for a truck engine. One point that interests me about a van engine is it's much more likely that it had an easier life no beating on it off road etc.
the good new is that I didn't have to change the engine, it turned out not to be the head was rusted through from the outside right above the exhaust manifold causing the water leak. I first thought it to be a cracked block. The new problem is that after changing the head used from a salvage yard, (because the truck isn't worth a new one) it won't start. We think that it because of air in the fuel lines. Any suggestions? Burning it isn't an option because it doesn't have the right insurance.