Hello all again I have a new problem I have identified while having my truck getting repaired. I am doing a clutch job in my driveway due to my whole back side of my disc being blown up and while doing an inspection for a mysterious oil leak I believe I have found it. Where it is is on the passenger side of the block noticable as sticky dirt on the starter and the plate that's between the tranny and the motor and then up the backside of the block. It goes behind the valve cover gasket( no leak noted there, then follows up to the pedestal. I took a can of trusty brake cleaner and sprayed away and it started to clean the oil off. The pedestal looks fairly filthy with lots of oil crust except where I hit it with the brake cleaner. I believe this is my problem and have ordered a rebuild kit from ford which will be here today 3/2/07. Is there a way to remove the turbo without having to remove the cast iron parts also. Ie can you seperate the turbo from the cast side to the trubo where the 12 point bolts are? Is there a gasket between there or is it metal to metal? If so then all that has to be done is remove the 4 bolts holding the pedestal down right? I have time to do this anyway and help is appreciated as i am waiting for some other parts also (TYMAR EXHAUST AND INTAKE !!! FUN FUN). Thanks for all the help.
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97 F250 PSD Birthdate is very importnant for parts yuck 9/96 4x4 HD Super Cab ZF 5-speed,4:10 gears limited slip both fron and back. Tymar Intake, Coolant filter kit installed. Tymar downpipe, also Tymar 4 inch exhaust. Western Unimount snowplow
turbo is fun, do it first with the tranny out it will so much easier, I'm jealous, need up pipe donuts too, reomve the upipe clamps at the top, then teh 4 pedistal bolts adn remove turbo, its probably the rod for the EBPV leaking.
__________________ Sold to JCart , 1997 F250 FireTruck Red,CC SB,auto( Presicion TC, HD-2Tugger),5" exhaust, Swamp 140cc injectors, TWildman 4-pos chip,open air cleaner, I/C w Banks intake, ,AIC,dual electric fans,Sky mfg RSK w/ D60w/ARB locker,she's well taken care of now pictures
2004 Dodge 3500 twin turbo 525hp rocket
As Nit mentioned do works prior to install of tranny MUCH easier.....also replace your up pipe donuts and have a good look at the upper end of the up pipes. When you observe the up pipe where the donuts fit the up pipe may be warn. I "reshaped" my pipes so the stock (original) donuts where a snug fit and re-installed. To "reshape" put a piece of large round stock in a vise and slide the up pipe over the round stock and message with a hammer. Be gentle, and go slow when you pound. If done correctly you will remove the small abrasions and ware points on the pipes as it expands through tapping (not huge pounding!) on it. I kept sliding the donuts on to "test fit" and when the fit was snug stopped shaping.....they have not leaked in two years, 80,000 Kms.
If your EBPV "rod" is leaking and you need a fix W/O plugging let me know as I have a fix for that too.
jrc
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97 XLT F250 CC ZF-5 (now ) DIY short shifter 355's D60 air locked T Wildman files, 'jectors, SD Hpop, DIY E-fans, IC, DP 4" exhaust, SS resonator, RSK, SD springs all corners, Velvet rides, Custom Aluminum Drybox/fuel tank, air bags, E-air compressor, VisionX HID/LED's, E fuel, F26D rear tank, E-fan Tranny oil cooler. http://community.webshots.com/user/jcart44
JRC, do you think a pipe expander would work to reshape an otherwise unperfect cylinderical pipe?
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Randy
Midnight black '94 * F-250 * 4x4 * ZF-5 * 3:55 * cc/lwb * RDS Single Shot Stage I's* TDP 6pos chip * BDP electric fuel * BDP D-66 Turbo * IDM Mod * Hypermax 3x4" dp * Authentic Tymar intake* 7.3 Intercooler * gutted ebpv * 4" exhaust & 5" tip * LUK clutch * A-pillar pod w/ Auto Meter NV boost, pyro and water temp gauges * reverse dash lighting and hvac controls * Optima yellow top batts D75/25, both on the right side * HPO X-over mod * manually controlled gp's * cruise control mod * add-a-leaf (front) * AC mod
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