Engine oil pump change

[bondsman]

First off, I will be changing the engine oil pump NOT the HPOP. Could someone that has a manual, look that up for me. I know it is behind the harmonic balancer. I bought the pump and it seems pretty straight forward. Does the pickup tube connect to the timing cover? There is no place for it to connect to this pump. What do I need to look for once I pull it? I am guessing that all I should have to remove is the lower shroud, then the HB, then the pump.

Anybody have any insight to this project????

Thanks
Kevin

[timberjack]

This is straight from the 1994.5 Ford manual, there may be some steps unneccesary, i've not done the job, so can't offer real world experience, just some theory.

I'll skip some of the obvious, and blend some steps together.

1. Drain coolant, remove rad hoses, fan and clutch assembly, and shroud.
2. Remove radiator
3. Remove flywheel inspection cover, and install flywheel holding tool
4. Remove crankshaft nut, (appears to be torqued to 212 ft-lbs at least)
5. Remove crankshaft damper
6. Remove the 4 oil pump housing bolts
7. Remove the oil pump assembly and square cut o-ring.
8. Remove the inner and outer gerotors, clean oil pump, and inspect clearances.

Installation:
1. Install inner gerotor on crankshaft, install oil pump housing, outer gerotor and o-ring. Text does not mention it, but diagram shows some oil being squirted onto the outer gerotor before mounting the pump housing in place.
2. Install the 4 oil pump housing bolts, tighten to standard torque limits. ie: 1/4" diameter bolts are 7 ft-lb, 5/16 is 14 ft-lb, 3/8" is 24 ft-lb, 7/16" is 38 ft-lbs, etc
3. Install crankshaft damper, torque damper bolt to 212 ft-lbs.
4. Remove flywheel holding tool, re install flywheel inspection plate
5. Install radiator, shroud, fan clutch assembly, connect hoses, etc
6. Refill coolant
7. Check and refill engine oil to proper level as needed.

That should be it. Crank away, the engine won't be able start until it gets oil pressure up to the hpop anyway.

The pick up tube isn't mentioned at all. So you shouldn't have to worry about that. There's nothing you can do about it anyway, the only o-ring i can see looks to be accessible only when the pan is off the engine.

Tried to get everything from the manual in here, hope it gives you some help. How did you figure out you needed a new low pressure pump?

[bondsman]

Thanks timberjack.... That is exactly what I needed...
You asked how I could tell I needed to replace it. Well, I have the "no start issue". Filled the hpop, fixed some wiring and injectors will fire. Once hpop res runs out of oil, injectors quit (which is pretty quick). Put a guage in place of the oil pressure sending unit, had the wife crank it over and the needle never moved. No low pressure at all. I am getting no codes as well. So, the oil pump is supposed to feed oil to the hpop reservoir (still don't know how it gets there but is supposed to). My reservoir is not refilling at all.
There is some suspect as to the mechanic that originally worked on it. I bought it from a kid who drove to a shop to install a reading utility bed and when the bed was finished that mechanic called him up and said his truck is not running and that he would take it off his hands. He took it to a performance diesel shop and the owner said there were lots of ppl coming to his shop trying to buy that truck but the kid was slowly paying him to tinker with it. Apparently, the radiator was removed (to install a bed???) and almost all of the wires were disconnected in the engine compartment. The mechanic at the performance diesel shop had said that the "original" mechanic probably removed the oil pump to keep it from running. He has a suspected history of sabotaging ppls vehicles then offering to buy them claiming it is going to cost more to fix it than it is worth.
Hopefully it is just the oil pump..... I can't wait to hear it run..

[timberjack]

Glad it helps, thought about your problem, and figured you might use some other info for reference too.

1994.5 Service manual Lubrication System Notes - TheDieselStop.Com Photo Hosting - i scanned the oil flow info from the manual, should give you an idea of how the lubricating system works.

If it turns out the "mechanic", and i use that term loosely, did sabotage the truck just to try to buy it for a song, he deserves to go out of business. Should be no room on this planet for people like that.

Good luck with the truck,
Ken

[bondsman]

That was exactly what I was looking for... Thanks Ken!!!! Where can I get this magic book you have????

As for the suspected mechanic. I can't wiat to see what is behind door number 1..... The performance mechanic said he replaced the oil filter and filled it with fresh oil, went through a few cycles of cranking then decided to check the oil filter and the same oil was in there. He told the kid that at a minimum, the oil pump is not functioning properly, so the kid put it on craigslist...thanks kid...and I bought it the following day.
I am just hoping I don't need to replace the front cover.... Don't know if I am ready for that job. I will get this thing running though. It is to be my 15 y/o sons truck... I have a 2005 F250 Lariat Crew 4x4, my 16y/o has a 95 F250 XL 4x4 PSD, and I couldn't pass up this 94.5 XLT 4x4 PSD ($1800).... Even if I have to put in a reman engine, I'll still have less than 10k in it..

Thanks again
Kevin

[timberjack]

Kevin, that's from the Ford factory manual.

I had ordered it after i bought my 94 F150. It came with the 94.5 "7.3L DI TurboDiesel Service Manual supplement", and i never had the need for it at first, so set it aside in the mass of other books i have. It's come in handy though, since i bought the two PSD's in the last 4-5 years. It's still a book form, which i prefer for shop work. I have a manual on cd for my car, and find it takes too long to find anything, but i still use it. I figure the cost of the proper shop manual has saved me enough over the years, and usually the first time i need it, is the paydown. lol

I believe you can get them through www.helminc.com . eBay would another choice. Here's the part number off the back of the book - FPS-12107-94-3. Yeah, here it is. Looks like it can't be ordered sepearately, and is probably twice the price i paid for mine 13 years ago - Helm Incorporated: Product


$1800 sounds like a great deal. If the Reading body is in good shape, theres a good part of the price right there. If i was closer to you, i would be interested if it was for sale.

Keep at it, you'll get it going. At that price, it's worth trying to find the problem.
Ken

[scott06455]

great advice I have a 85 f250 that keeps blowing oil filters, Im thinking bad relief valve. Is it part of oil pump and how do I change it? Scott

[action4478]

Before you go too far , take the oil filter off & look for ....this.... make sure there is not an empty hole where the small pressure relief valve should be ...

[scott06455]

thanx aqction 4478 however you pic did not come through. could you send it to me and any advice. I dont want to pull this engine. Truck sat for 7 years, but runs good except the filter problem shogan10@comcast.net

[Brian Cloke]

Hi guys.
These oil pumps are very reliable and very seldom give any trouble. Before dismantling anything give this a try. JAck up the rear end of the truck quite high then try giving it a good cranking. The oil pick up in the pan is prone to cracking and if that is the case it will not pump. by jacking it up the oil will be over any crack. If it does now get some pressure the only way to fix it is to remove the engine.
Cheers
Brian.

[action4478]

Sorry .. try this..

[action4478]

If the Pickup tube is cracked ,,,there is now a way to remove the pan ,,,

click ...here...

[Brian Cloke]

That certainly looks like a good answer to the problem.
Cheers.
Brian.

[RD97]

If only I had seen that a couple of years ago...

Originally Posted by action4478

If the Pickup tube is cracked ,,,there is now a way to remove the pan ,,,

click ...here...

[scott06455]

Back to the pump. I cleaned the relief valve as best I could and now I get 100psi oil press at idle cold and 12psi at idle hot. If I drive truck cold the press either ruptures the filter or blows out the gasket. Anyone have any thoughts? Scott