Well, no, but thanks. I just wonder what the test would reveal using the synthetic additive that is recommended for our motors. Not that I'm anxious to spend another $20 per oil change... unless its worth it. I'm not an oil expert but I sure wouldn't run the standard stabilizer when the bottle calls for the synthetic, so why bother testing the standard? And what about Prolong? have you had good luck with that? If there is an additive worthwhile I would spend the money on it for my truck.
__________________
1996 PSD supercab longbed 4x4 XLT white/grey int. TS 6 position chip, New turbo w/1.00 Turbine housing 3" dp 5" exh. no cat, no muff 6" stainless slash tip. DIY Napa intake Sony Xplod stereo, door speaks, amps and subs. Autometer gauges and pod E4OD 150k miles. GEAR VENDORS! One piece rear drive shaft, two piece front shaft 4" Superlift on Weld wheels wrapped with Pro-Comp Xtremes. Clean. All rebuilt fuel system/new pump, new SD Intercooler, Modified Banks Pipe kit. **********SOLD**********
2002 Silverado 5.3 1500 2wd stock Pioneer Navi 1 daily driver 110k miles
1996 Kawasaki SXI750 twin big Mikunis factory pipe R&D head/rideplate kustom kut solas impeller ported/polished big power, little ski 58mph w/235lb rider on VP-C14
1988 Suzuki LT500 Quadzilla
1978 Suzuki FZ50
1977 Suzuki FZ50
1978 Motobecane 50V
well, like i said in an earlier post, with the synthetic lucas, my truck does seem to run a little smoother especially on long oil changes. i intend to send in an oil sample when i drain my oil ( probably next week ) and i'll post the results. i intend to use auto-rx on my next oil change and go through the cleaning process it recommends and possibly continue to use if afterwards for the friction modifiers it offers.
It has been recommended to add Prolong when you change the oil in the top end, that is what I did and it seems to work really good. My motor runs much smoother now and doesn't make nearly as much rattling noise.
Worst mistake I ever made was putting in the Lucas non-synthetic stabilizer, (at 60 it bucked liked the wheels were coming off) since it didnt help much on the first oil change I tried it again (what a dummy). Then on the next one I tried some of the synthetic additive, it ran just as bad as before.
The reason I tried it in the first place was; after I used some of their Diesel fuel additive it seemed to make it run much better, hey, if a little is good allot must be better, right?
Finally after 3 oil changes with no additives, then recently changing the oil in the top end it is finally starting to run like it use to.
Last edited by riceburner; 06-20-2009 at 10:58 PM.
Not theory but fact. The oil goes from the low pressure oil pump to the high pressure oil pump then it is delivered to the injectors through the high pressure oil lines and cylinder heads. The injector uses the oil pressure to inject the fuel into the cylinder and then out of the injector to the valve train area. From there is flows back down to the oil pan. If is was a closed system when you pulled your valve covers off and ran the engine you would not see any oil coming from the injector but have a return line connected to it to recycle it to the hpop.
Your sir are correct, and you know I have found over the years that every time a designing engineer has designed something for use they always have taken everything into consideration and the end results are always as they expected.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.