I had the local Les Schwab do my front brakes about 10K ago, they have since changed the pads twice trying to get rid of the brake squeel, its really loud, and I am now running with the stock Ford pads with no change in the sound, i am pretty sure its the pads, what is the solution, different pad compound?
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97 F250 CC SB, Dana 60 conversion, warn hubs, Tymar intake, 3"DP with 4" black cat back to 5" tip, no kitty,Mag-high tech diff covers, Amsoil throughout, Auto meter triple a-post guages, Energy suspension bushings, Rancho 9000x shocks, 35x12.5 17 BFGs on American eagle, Tru-cool 4590 trans cooler with rebuild E40D, Warn winch and bumper
I feel your pain... Did mine recently with parts from auto zone because they were cheaper and I have little funds at the current time. I Think the rotors are chineese. The pads where the best they had. ceramic I think. Boy were they noisey sods. I looked at them after three months and found the pads burnt cracked and waring much quicker than they should. I got some new pads from the dealer. Not oem but motorcraft. The counterman suggested some stuff for the squeeking that the machanic sware by. It's black liquid in a smallish bottle bundled with a small container of brake cleaner. So far it has been much better then the last pads. Time will tell if it will improve. Was about 80 bucks for the pads and de squeeker stuff.
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Jim
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97F250 7.3 PSD 4x4 Ext Cab E4OD, 4:10LS, about 110k on the clock, Guages: Pyro,Boost,Trans. 4" intake, 3" Dp, 4" msrp exhuast, Cat MIA, Adj 10k, AMI Wheel chair lift.
I would say swap the rotors for some new ones, get the best new semi metallic pads (ceramics are the hardest compound and will squeal like hell). Buy 2 of the 1.00 packets of brake lube that the parts guy tries to up sell you on, and apply it how he tells you. thats how i do mine every time and ive never had a problem. I always REPLACE the rotors and pads, never one or the other, and dont waste my time turning the rotors
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EARLY 99 F350, CREW CAB, LONG BED. 4X4 7.3L AUTOMATIC. EDGE JUICE W/ ATTITUDE. 4" EXHAUST, NO MUFFLER, 6" TIP, COLD AIR INTAKE, BD: CCV KIT (WON ONLINE, THANK YOU BD). DVD PLAYER, PS2, IN DASH TV, POWER INVERTER, 2-10" INFINITY SUBS IN PORTED BOX. CLASS 5 REESE TOW PACKAGE, FLIP UP GOSENECK HITCH. CB/PA, WITH DUAL TRUCKER WHIPS. TOW MIRRORS, AND CAB LIGHTS, RECON LED TAILGATEBAR W/ REVERSE LIGHT, BUG GUARD AND WINDOW VISORS. 05 GRILL AND HEADLIGHT SWAP, 08 TAILGATE, 285/75 BFG ALL-TERRAINS, SHACKLE LEVELING KIT, AND BILSTIEN SHOCKS. 5% TINT ALL THE WAY AROUND, AND 50% ON THE WINDSHEILD.
SOON TO COME: 08 TAIL LIGHTS, CLEAR CABLIGHTS, RECON ESCALADE STYLE 3RD BRAKE LIGHT, STROBE LIGHTS, PROJECTOR BACKUP LIGHTS, 33X12.50 BFG ALL TERRAINS ON BLACK DICK CEPEK 17" RIMS, EDGE EVOLUTION PROGRAMMER (STACKED), RAPTOR HIGH PERFORMANCE FUEL PUMP, HIGH PERFORMANCE HPOP, POSSIBLY 10" STACKS!
If you look at the chineese crap rotors, compared to the original USA built units... Nite and Day differents. These start out life as castings. The American made originals were balanced and fit perfectly. The chineese units not.
The lub will definetly help. Put a small amount on all moving parts including the back of the pad where the pistons contact. I put mine on the pistons that way ya can't miss.
Noise is really nothing but vibrations in the audio frequencies. So any thing you change can affect the frequency. There is also a goo for lack of a proper word which can be applied to the back of the pads. It changes the pad to piston interface and dampens the fibrations.
I can confirm it pays to buy the best parts available when It comes to your brakes. I had my brakes for three months. Pads showed wear. I didn't travel that far on these either. They were just junk. And N o i s e y ! ! !
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Jim
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97F250 7.3 PSD 4x4 Ext Cab E4OD, 4:10LS, about 110k on the clock, Guages: Pyro,Boost,Trans. 4" intake, 3" Dp, 4" msrp exhuast, Cat MIA, Adj 10k, AMI Wheel chair lift.
......everybody here is right when it comes to Chinese made parts or products for that matter, my father has an office and curretly lives in Hong Kong, the story he tells about how disonest and crooks they are, it amazes me that USA does so much business with them, even if you try to buy only american made, most likely China will be behind it somehow....off topic but just wanted to throw that in.
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2000 F-350 7.3 PS ,4R100 Lariat Dually http://i829.photobucket.com/albums/z...DSC02732-1.jpg
4x2 LB 3.73 gears, 115k miles(better than new)
6" Fabtech lift w/ duall steering stabilizers
22.5 polished Freightliner wheels
Triple Clutch Triple Bearings Billet Low stall Converter.
Wicked Wheel
Full Turbo back 4'' exhaust,
Triple Autometer Phantom gauges on pillar,
Now using SCT 100hp Performance tune.
Wastegate disconnected for now...
2005 front clip.
Train horns.
Zoodad mod.
CFM-plus
CCV rerouted
S&B CAI
IC pipe ceramic coated w/ foil delete
Inlet heater deleted.
3 tv's + Backup Camera,DVD,Nav.,Satelite Music.
Jason smooth topper.
Here but not installed: 4'' Ported Housing,ATS 1.00 a/r, non-ebv pedestal and outlet,turbo master actuator,203 thermo.,billet thermo. inlet.,TRU Cool tranny cooler (no time )
Still off topic, sort of ... I was desperate when i bought the rotors. Actually my son paid for the parts. My cycle is broke, the wifes car is broke... You get the picture. I hate that in our country, even thoses of us who mean well ( including me ) still buy stuff made else where (that means we are supporting some other country). Mean while we are loosing industry and jobs. Hyundi, Korean right... Are they the ones treatening the world now. And we do business with them. Ok Nuff said... Don't get me going...
Back on topic...
Scotts97cc
Let us know if you fix your issue and what measures you took to get there.
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Jim
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97F250 7.3 PSD 4x4 Ext Cab E4OD, 4:10LS, about 110k on the clock, Guages: Pyro,Boost,Trans. 4" intake, 3" Dp, 4" msrp exhuast, Cat MIA, Adj 10k, AMI Wheel chair lift.
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