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Power Strokes 1994-1997 General Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the Power Stroke engine in 1994 through 1997 models.

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Old 01-20-2009, 06:54 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Front Crank Seal

My front crank seal is leaking and I was wondering how hard it is to replace? Looks to me like you pull the crank dampener pulley and seal. Is that all there is to it? Any input would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 01-20-2009, 08:12 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You need to order the seal first, assuming you have an early 7.3 IDI there is no wear ring so you may also have to replace the damper. Look for a groove in the seal damper mating surfaces. 7.3lL DI Turbo has a wear ring that can can be pulled and replaced off the damper. In either case If the seal amting surface is bad it will look like a ditch or as groove. The seal has a tension spring on the rubber that makes the rubber wear out the seal surface on the damper.
DISCONNECT GROUND SO TRUCK WONT START AND LOCK THE BRAKES.
I had 237,000 miles and added just the seal, I will rebuild some time later in year. Leak was so bad when it idled I need a urinal underneath it! Jack the truck front end up on two standing jacks to work freely.
This a four hour job in December outside, as I found out. You need a seal puller and fan(LEFTHAND THREAD HERE) clutch tools. Seal pullers are about $4 at harbor freight tools and if you dont bend it and straighten it out to many times you can pull the seal. Fan clutch tool you will need to rent from autozone or other. Deep sockets, a torque wrench and chain wrench are required to remove the crankshaft nut. Use the old serpentine belt so you dont damage the pulley grooves- so remember to buy a new serpentine belt or borrow a piece of your neighbors belt.
You will start be removing the top rad hose from(tie it up) the rad and save the fluid, rags and a large windshield washer fluid bottle with out top, like scoop are really useful here. Buy some antifreeze, you will loose some. You need to loosen the belt on the tensioner mechanism. Balancing the fan back on the clutch before the rad shroud(has 4 small rusty bolts) is removed is really learning what it would be like to have 3 hands.
Once that is off it goes pretty quick. If you have to do it get a friend, it is much easier, a homeless person or a maroon works just as well, as you always need somebody to pass a wrench or blame when something goes wrong.
Try to put some cardboard on the rad face so you dont chew up the fins. Put oil on the rubber part of the seal before installing. Be very careful pulling old seal, cheap seal pullers bend and break fast. You will also need a pulley puller and a big one at that to pull the damper off. Use a big socket to drive in the damper when you put it back, aligning the keyway! I did not have a big socket, so an 8 year old showed me how to make a wooden block with a 3inch bore countersunk into a couple of pieces of hardwood-use a 1.5inch drill and make several passes for a 3 inch diameter, nobody has a 3inch keyhole drill or maybe they do. I then pounded the wooden block and the damper was in place. Buy nitrile latex gloves, use 2 pair at atime changing about six times when you do this or you will loose skin, break nails and you just wont be able to get the right manicure in time for you celebration of this feat!
I bought a book, Haynes Techbook #10330, Diesel Repair Manual, GM and Ford Diesels, ISBN 156392188X- THIS IS THE BEST BOOK IF YOU WANT TO REPAIR EARLY IDI POWERSTROKE- worth every penny at $40 or may be in public library. Great pictures and diagnostics.
YOU CAN DO IT! GO FOR IT!

Last edited by abogacz; 01-20-2009 at 08:23 PM. Reason: additions, spelling
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Old 01-20-2009, 08:42 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abogacz View Post
Deep sockets, a torque wrench and chain wrench are required to remove the crankshaft nut. Use the old serpentine belt so you dont damage the pulley grooves- so remember to buy a new serpentine belt or borrow a piece of your neighbors belt.
When I did mine I removed the flywheel inspection cover and placed the jack carefully under one of the flywheel teeth. This way the crank didn't spin and I was able to use two hands to loosen the damper bolt.

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You will also need a pulley puller and a big one at that to pull the damper off. Use a big socket to drive in the damper when you put it back, aligning the keyway!
The risk in using a pulley puller is that you may separate the inner and outer halves of the damper. It's probably better to use an honest-to-goodness harmonic balancer puller. It will bolt on to the inner half of the damper, preventing damage. While you're renting tools, you might as well get the harmonic balancer installer and do it up right.

Oh, and you'll need red loctite for the new wear ring and RTV sealant for the key-way and behind the pulley bolt/washer. Finally, the torque spec for the bolt is 212 ft-lbs, so you'll need a big torque wrench.

-RD
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Old 01-22-2009, 07:27 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Here ya go....

Check out pdf for removal and install instructions
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 1995 Front Crank Seal Instructions.pdf (32.1 KB, 384 views)
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Old 01-23-2009, 09:07 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Front Crank Seal

Thanks for the info.
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95 F-250 LWB PSD 4X4 extended cab auto trans, 6-inch superlift with super runner steering, 37X13.5-17 Toyo - Open Country M/T tires and American Racing - Clash (Black)rims, TYMAR 3x4" DP, TYMAR 4" straight exhaust(lost the cat during install), coolant filter, 10K Mod, FPR shimmed, Gutted EBPV, Autometer Ultra Lite boost, pyro, & trans gauges in the A-pillar, 26K GVW transmission cooler, K&N FIPK, Warn manual hubs, Viper Alarm with remote start.
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