Join Date: Jan 2009
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You need to order the seal first, assuming you have an early 7.3 IDI there is no wear ring so you may also have to replace the damper. Look for a groove in the seal damper mating surfaces. 7.3lL DI Turbo has a wear ring that can can be pulled and replaced off the damper. In either case If the seal amting surface is bad it will look like a ditch or as groove. The seal has a tension spring on the rubber that makes the rubber wear out the seal surface on the damper.
DISCONNECT GROUND SO TRUCK WONT START AND LOCK THE BRAKES.
I had 237,000 miles and added just the seal, I will rebuild some time later in year. Leak was so bad when it idled I need a urinal underneath it! Jack the truck front end up on two standing jacks to work freely.
This a four hour job in December outside, as I found out. You need a seal puller and fan(LEFTHAND THREAD HERE) clutch tools. Seal pullers are about $4 at harbor freight tools and if you dont bend it and straighten it out to many times you can pull the seal. Fan clutch tool you will need to rent from autozone or other. Deep sockets, a torque wrench and chain wrench are required to remove the crankshaft nut. Use the old serpentine belt so you dont damage the pulley grooves- so remember to buy a new serpentine belt or borrow a piece of your neighbors belt.
You will start be removing the top rad hose from(tie it up) the rad and save the fluid, rags and a large windshield washer fluid bottle with out top, like scoop are really useful here. Buy some antifreeze, you will loose some. You need to loosen the belt on the tensioner mechanism. Balancing the fan back on the clutch before the rad shroud(has 4 small rusty bolts) is removed is really learning what it would be like to have 3 hands.
Once that is off it goes pretty quick. If you have to do it get a friend, it is much easier, a homeless person or a maroon works just as well, as you always need somebody to pass a wrench or blame when something goes wrong.
Try to put some cardboard on the rad face so you dont chew up the fins. Put oil on the rubber part of the seal before installing. Be very careful pulling old seal, cheap seal pullers bend and break fast. You will also need a pulley puller and a big one at that to pull the damper off. Use a big socket to drive in the damper when you put it back, aligning the keyway! I did not have a big socket, so an 8 year old showed me how to make a wooden block with a 3inch bore countersunk into a couple of pieces of hardwood-use a 1.5inch drill and make several passes for a 3 inch diameter, nobody has a 3inch keyhole drill or maybe they do. I then pounded the wooden block and the damper was in place. Buy nitrile latex gloves, use 2 pair at atime changing about six times when you do this or you will loose skin, break nails and you just wont be able to get the right manicure in time for you celebration of this feat!
I bought a book, Haynes Techbook #10330, Diesel Repair Manual, GM and Ford Diesels, ISBN 156392188X- THIS IS THE BEST BOOK IF YOU WANT TO REPAIR EARLY IDI POWERSTROKE- worth every penny at $40 or may be in public library. Great pictures and diagnostics.
YOU CAN DO IT! GO FOR IT!
Last edited by abogacz; 01-20-2009 at 09:23 PM.
Reason: additions, spelling