Front Disks are cracked - Diesel Forum

thedroid1420 · 02-28-2005, 01:02 AM

Put on new brake pads this afternoon and I noticed that my disks are cracked. They are full of small hairline cracks and the outer disk layer is cracked all the way through on both disks. I don't know how long they have been like this. How much will it cost to replace, and how complicated is it. I'm a pretty decent wrench, just never been into a 4x4's hubs before.

buellpjw · 02-28-2005, 01:24 AM

go to one of the local parts stores and borow (I prefer to buy as cheep as they are) the tool "like a big socket" get new rotors again they are not that much but varies with what you want the cheep rotors are about 40$ per and you can go up to about 160 per again these are big trucks so I like the better ones but I do not tow much so I do not go all the way. you can re use the bearings but I allways get new ones any time I am in there just so I do not have to go in there for that later. easy job

thedroid1420 · 02-28-2005, 04:31 PM

is the disk a part of the hub or does it separate from it once you pull off the hub? Those prices are reasonable, but I can't imagine them being for the whole hub assembly.

SomeCarGuy · 03-01-2005, 05:16 AM

On a F250 it is a one piece deal. On the F350 i'm not sure as I haven't got to do mine yet. On a old school 72-93 Dodge 1 ton they are 2 piece.

Don;t waste time and money on the cheap China rotors. Get the Canada made ones and be done with it.

I will join you in line, this week I glanced at mine and see the same hairline cracks in the rotors of the 97 F350.

AlH · 03-01-2005, 02:57 PM

350 are 2 piece..the hub has to come off the spindle, the disk is behind it! The studs have to be pressed out and back in with the new rotor.
BTW mine are chinese rotors, holding up fine now. Original Ford ones and one set of chinese ones cracked. I haven't cracked any rotors since I figured out what did it and quit doing it [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]

rsouther · 03-01-2005, 02:59 PM

Do a search for "cracked rotor" and you will find it is a pretty common problem.

Mine did the same and I ended up replacing both rotors and bearings. I went with the NAPA rotors as it seemed like most of the searches recommended these as being non crack prone. NAPA also sells a drilled and slotted rotor that looks real nice but they had to order these and I thought they were a little over kill. I think the whole job was $450 and I did the work myself!! I think the rotors were $100 or so ea. Go to napaonline.com and you can check prices.

I decided not to scimp on this since I tow a 10Klb TT in the mountains. Scary as hell thinking about a rotor letting go with 10K lb trailer pushing from behind!!! The problem I had is if you go with OEM ford rotors it will most likely happen again - not good.

Yes the F350 rotor does separate from the hub. You have to use a BFH.

Make sure you check your bearings. Mine were not too bad at ~107K miles but they had some blueing discoloration and I decided to replace them for good measure.

BTW it has been 2 years and so far the NAPA rotors are holding up well.

dtenorio · 03-01-2005, 03:02 PM

I replaced my cracked rotors with a new set of slotted and drilled ones from NAPA. The stopping power is great and they look real good behind the wheels! Check them out at your local shop, I've been real pleased with mine.

Dan T.

colobronco · 03-01-2005, 03:32 PM

i had one cracked on mine and its only got 80K miles (about 8k mine) Also you will be close to the inner spindle bearing and inner spindle seal, would be good to check those too. i had one of the inner spindle seal out and water was starting to get in. One of my spindles was hard to get off and the other just came right off. Also found a upper ball joint out [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img] got 25+ year old trucks that i haven't had ball joints go out in yet.

Put the wheel studs in the freezer, over night would be good, it will shrink them and they usualy go back in with a hammer and punch. put the hub out in the sun so its warm.

thedroid1420 · 03-01-2005, 06:44 PM

Thanks for all the infor guy's. I have access to a press so it sounds like an easy job. I'll do it next weekend.

Big Fig · 03-01-2005, 10:02 PM

For what it's worth, a member here ("Wis_PSD") gave me some really good advice on rotors a long while back.

I got some cryo treated rotors from a place called "300 Below". Those guys will sell you a set of good quality American rotors (not any made in China; supposedly, their quality ain't that great...), then freeze them for you. It sure eliminated the "brake shake" I had on my old truck from warped rotors. Unfortunately, I can't speak for longevity of the frozen rotors; that truck got wrecked just a short time afterwards. They're supposed to last much longer.... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]

I've got a set for my "new" Figmobile. I'm saving for some of the better pads from NAPA, along with wheel bearings. I got my wrench for my hub/wheel bearing retainer from CarQuest auto parts, for around $20 or so. I had one from Harbor Freight I mail ordered, and gave to Central Texan, that was only $8 or so.... May pay to check with them, if you have one of them handy. If I recall correctly, I had to drive out my wheel studs with a big hammer, to get the rotor to separate from the hub. Stuck a lug nut on with several turns, and pounded on that with a big hammer. If your truck has that goofy 2 & 3/4" rounded corner wheel bearing lock nut, there's probably also a weird, "C" shaped retainer clip that fits in the groove on the spindle, and then wraps half-way around the spindle, to hold that goofy nut on. Remove this first!!! I couldn't see mine, and nearly burst a vein in my forehead trying to get that rounded nut off. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img] Also boogered up a few spindle threads in the process.... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img] After you get the hub/rotor assembly off, and the rotor separated from the hub, it's pretty much "cake".... Do one side at a time, so you can go look at the other side for a "refernce", if ya have a short memory like I do... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img] Hope this helps some...

Big K · 03-02-2005, 12:12 AM

The 4x4 F250 and F350 Interchange. the rotors and hubs are the same.

mike100 · 03-02-2005, 12:30 AM

I can't even get my brakes to wear out... I guess having a reg cab f-250 has some benefit.

A quick glance at the complainers sigs showed CC's and extended f-350's probably most with bigger than stock tires. Keep buying them brakes I guess.

GOPDiesel · 03-02-2005, 07:27 PM

I ditto the suggestion going with NAPA Performance Rotors. They are slotted and drilled. They've been great so far. Suppose to increase efficiency by expelling the gases and cooling quicker. I've had mine for 20k miles. You can check them online and napa.com If I recall they were about $100 each.

Pat