I just bought sensor 1809435C1 earlier this week from an International dealer (Brattain in Portland, OR). My factory sensor was installed dry (no sealer). It did not appear to be leaking from the pipe thread (it was leaking through the body of the sensor). Be VERY careful threading the new one in. Mine goes into the fuel bowl itself (yours should go into the FPR), but both are known for being weak aluminum castings. My fuel bowl split with VERY little torque on the sensor.
ISSPRO Engineering Manager
1995 F350 PSD Crew Cab Dually, 288k miles (Ford rebuilt E4OD at 226k)
10 ISSPRO Performax gauges, Tymar Intake, Gutted EBPV, Tymar 3x4" downpipe, Tymar 5" exhaust, Cat's hiding in the shed, Baby Swamps & Tunes, Tricumulator springs and Accumulator Valve, Tru-Cool 4590 Trans Cooler, Lock-Right Locker
2000 Jetta TDI - Kerma reflash, Der Chimera Stage II Clutch
1998 S&S 9.5' slide-in camper
33' enclosed tag trailer with 2 doorslammer drag cars (73 Vega Super-Gas & 74 Vega ET Super-Pro)
1992 GMC Typhoon, 1973 Chevy Blazer with Pontiac 400, 1973 Trans-Am 455
NRA member and certified firearms instructor
Try powerstrokeshop.com for E8TZ-9S283-A. Many use the plug but I like to know while driving that there is a restriction. Don't use teflon tape in your fuel system. The smallest piece of tape can come loose and cause a clog. Use teflon paste or Permatex.
'97 F-350 7.3L PSD RC LB 4WD E4OD - Plant Drive VO kit
'84 Mercedes Euro 300D NA - Custom two-tank VO
Running on Veg Oil and Biodiesel since May 2006
I have found that McCandless isn't very helpful over the phone. I needed quite a few parts awhile back and kept being told it didn't exist or discontinued. I went down with my list talked a bit with the Parts guy gave him my list and he pulled everything and gave a decent discount for my troubles... Since - I haven't called them, if I need something I simply go down there. But with the discount I can get from Ford, I don't hardly make the trip out there...
__________________ The Trash Truck
96 CC F350 SRW - Built for SVO and mileage
Go Green - HotFox, Dual Heated Dahl 100s, Fuel Filter Coolant Wrap, ArcticFox
Go Fast - Hybrids, H2E, 6.0 IC, Fuelab, BTS
thanx go to
Rockin-S-Performance - Install, tech support, and advice Diesel Innovations - Killer Deal on Parts Tony Wildman - Tuning
Well, it's nice to know (I guess ) that my experience is not the only one with the dealer.
Regarding the paste/tape - thanks for the info. I won't use any on the sensor, but I'm still unsure of (if I wind up getting a plug instead) which to use. I understand not wanting to get the tape in the system, but I had read some other negative stuff about the paste, so I don't know. I think a discussion of why one is better than the other would be beneficial for someone like me, who doesn't know.
I've PM'd Tom S and hopefully I'll have a sensor to replace.
__________________ 1997 (Built 2/97 Ours since 2/02) F-250 HD Ext Cab XLT
PSD, TDE1, LWB, Auto, 4.10, 4x4, Manual Hubs, Overloads, White Century Topper Mods:GP and Door Chime Bypasses , DPPI Downpipe, Bilsteins, Autometer Z-Series (Pyro, Tranny Temp, Boost) in Rockin S Pod, Tymar Intake and Coolant Filter, Tru-Cool Trans Cooler, Magnefine Trans Filter TDS Mods: Gutterguarded Grill, <$10 Cold Air Intake, FPR Shimmed @ 70psi
I used yellow tape and a brass plug, and haven't had a problem since. To my thinking, tape is much more predictable in its final location than dope. If you go this route, use the smallest wrench you can, and your weak hand; try finger tight plus 1/4 turn, then start and check for leaks with a flashlight and your fingers. If you tighten too much you WILL crack the FPR and then either spend way too much at Ford or the next two evenings with spray solvent and JB Weld (don't ask.) I figure if you buy good fuel and check your filter from time to time, I don't need the FRS to tell me anything.
'96 F350 XLT CC 4x4 PSD auto LWB 4.10 open, white, open intake, Tymar HX, 3"DPP downpipe, 315 General A/T on factory Alcoas, F add-a-leaf, new alt x3, fuel pump x3, water pump x2, vac pump x 3, PS pump x3, SD starter x3, rebuilt seats, total poly bushing kit, serious noise reduction, new tan interior and vinyl floor, Bilsteins, Bean's Stage 1s, Tony Wildman 4-pos chip (wow), etc ad infinitum, newer black Lab in backseat, locally rebuilt tranny & new TC @ 211k, complete body 'makeover' and repaint @ 213k, new fast-spool turbo 7/11, 317k miles on 18 Oct '14; probably won't run forever but neither will I
fatboy, it will depend on your truck. If you have an earlier 95 it could be on the backside of the fuel bowl, waaaay down towards the bottom (a real pain to change it even with a plug). If it is a later one, it should be on the regulator body on the driver's side (like in the picture posted by arob 47 ... much easier to get to). Cheers!
97 F250 SC 4x4 (CA model), E4OD, 4.10 LS, Relocated Block Heater Plug, Ext Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed