Fuel leak, top of motor. - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Ford Diesel Forum / Powerstroke Forum
Ford Diesel Forum / Powerstroke Forum
Go Back   Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com > Ford Diesels > Power Strokes 1994-1997 General

Power Strokes 1994-1997 General Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the Power Stroke engine in 1994 through 1997 models.

TheDieselstop.com is the premier Diesel Truck Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 09-05-2009, 07:49 PM   #1 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 36
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Fuel leak, top of motor.

I have a bad fuel leak that puddles up on top of the motor and eventually runs off the bottom of the clutch cover. I cant see exactly where its coming from. But it looks like from below the fuel selector valve. I dont see any fuel coming from the hoses going from it and forward to the bowl? Looks like under it and to the passenger side of the truck. I looked at some of the other threads but havent seen anything to help me out. I'd appreciate any help. Thanks.

Shannon 95 F-250
shannon80 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 09-05-2009, 10:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 55
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
our 00 f-250 was leaking from a fuel line on the bowl it would run down the vally and drip close to tranny.the lines were bad and needed new fittings
mudgrip12 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-05-2009, 10:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
Lifetime Supporting Member
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
bugman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Gypsum, Co
Posts: 6,171
My Photos: (12)
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Your fuel selector valve is under the truck on the frame rail so it is not that. You have the fuel pump and filter housing on top of the engine in the valley. The fuel pump has a weep hole that will start to leak when it is ready to go out. What you need to do is dry it up as much as possible then stuff a couple of rags between the pump and the filter housing, go for a drive and then check it to see if you can tell where it is coming from.

Jim
__________________
96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
bugman is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-06-2009, 08:29 AM   #4 (permalink)
Lifetime Supporting Member
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
95DRW4x4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Canton, GA
Posts: 209
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I had a leak like that and it was the fuel restriction sensor located at the back lower part of the bowl. Hard to reach but when I dried it off, then ran it a few minutes it became wet. I think this is a common problem with these sensors.
__________________
95 F350, 7.3 PSD, CC, ZF5 speed, 4x4, Dually, Autometer EGT, Boost and Engine Temp Gauges, HPOP and Fuel Pressure Gauges, DP and 4 inch exhaust, Tymar Intake, CPR Fuel System, Adrenaline HPOP, Intercooled, IDM Mod

85 Ranger, 302, ZF5 speed, Klune-V, Dana 20, Explorer front and rear diffs, 35 inch TSLs, ARBs, Superwinch
95DRW4x4 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-06-2009, 01:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 36
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Its not the fuel filter/bowl assembly thats leaking. Its whatever is below and aft of the bowl. Bugman, is this the fuel pump you were refering too? What fuel pump is this? Do I have to pull the fuel bowl? If I pul tall this stuff out, do I need to worry about air getting into the system? Or will it bleed itself out on initial start up? I havent gone into a diesel like this. Thanks.
shannon80 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-06-2009, 01:38 PM   #6 (permalink)
Lifetime Supporting Member
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
bugman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Gypsum, Co
Posts: 6,171
My Photos: (12)
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
That is the fuel pump and is a 2 stage pump, high and low pressure. You don't need to remove anything if you are going to change it out but it is a little tricky getting to the banjo bolt of the back side. If you decide to change it out the biggest worry is the rod that rides on the cam shaft. Once the pump is loose turn the enging over by hand until it lifts itself off of the mounting then you won't loose anything into the engine.
Here is a write up by Sam Miller on how to do it.

FUEL PUMP REPLACEMENT by Sam Miller

I recommend disconnecting batteries. There is no way to work around the glow plug relay without touching it. Then set up a parts tray, run a good light, throw a pad over the radiator and go for it.

Also, if you have a HPX crossover hose installed, it is easier if you disconnect it from the passenger side oil rail and tie it out of the way. Remove "Y" pipe (compressor manifold) from turbo, taking care not to lose the rubber O-ring inside the fitting (Marmon clamp). If you loosen only the lower clamps on the two silicone hoses the whole assembly can be removed easily and set aside. Cover the openings with rags or plastic wrap and secure with rubber bands.

Draining the fuel filter/water separator canister. You will want to either place a container under the vehicle to catch the diesel (a hose pushed on to the drain tube sure prevents a mess), or pump the canister dry once you get the filter out, in which case you wonít slide the yellow lever to "DRAIN." This is a good occasion to inspect and clean the interior of the canister, so removal of the filter and heater is advised. (Remember, the plastic heater standpipe is LEFT HAND THREADS.) A 7/8" crowís foot wrench works best, but I have loosened it with a regular open-end wrench. Pull off the heater wire connector with needle-nose pliers. Now you can clean the canister and check for cracks or leaks. Youíll be amazed at the crud in there.

Disconnecting hoses. There are two hoses connected to the top of the pump and one at the bottom. The two top hoses are protected by a removable clip-on heat shield (just yank it off). You can only get to the clamp on the pump side of that bottom hose. And finally, the water drain hose at the front passenger side of the filter housing.

Remove the two bolts attaching the fuel pressure regulator with 10mm and carefully pry it back from the filter housing, taking care not to lose the O-ring. Good time to clean the screen and examine condition of O-ring. There is also a short section of 5/16" hose that may need to be replaced.

Separate the wire harness connector on the passenger side of canister and remove positioning clamp with 8mm. It will NOT slide off the tongue of the clamp as you think it might, since the tongue is barbed. (Remind you of anyone?)

Disconnect wires connected to the canister, two on drivers side, one at bottom rear. (So now you want to know what they are? Aw geez, youíre one of THOSE GUYS: Oh, all right: on the driverís side, the top connector on the side of the Water Filter/Water Separator Assembly is the fuel heater connection; the connector directly beneath it links to the Water Sensor; and the connector on the bottom rear of the Assembly is for the filter restriction sensor. I believe it is a vacuum switch. Note: In 1996 the fuel filter restriction sensor was moved to the fuel pressure regulator, driverís side of filter housing. Happy now?)

To continue: Two bolts holding down the filter canister are 13mm. You can lift the whole filter assembly up and forward out of the way with the long blue hose still connected at the bottom.

Getting the pump out is not difficult, using a 1 1/4 inch box end wrench, heated and bent to clear the turbo pedestal, while removing the large banjo bolt. You just have to be patient and content with getting only small incremental turns on it. It takes a while. The two metal ring-gaskets will sometimes remain stuck to the banjo fitting. You can remove them once the pump is out of the way. You do not have to remove or loosen the fuel supply tubes connected to the banjo fitting.

Remove the two 10 mm bolts holding down the pump and carefully remove the pump from the crankcase bore. It will take some twisting and pulling. Be careful here so as not to lose the tappet into the cam crankcase. That would not be good. Examine your new pump to see how the tappet connects. Eventually you'll be able to lift the pump straight up and out of the engine.

Cover or stuff a rag into the pump hole and it's a good time to clean the entire valley. Kind of like being on a treasure hunt, you'll be amazed at what you find down there; valve caps, wire ends, wedding rings, cat hair, baseball gloves, wrenches... It's a lot of fun getting back all your tools.

Check out the exterior of the fuel filter canister. Clean the three wire terminals, check for leaks or cracks and clean everything so if a leak shows up later you'll know exactly where it originates.

Time to put things back together. Remove the two metal banjo gaskets if you haven't already. You might need a knife blade to get them loose. Be sure the interior of the banjo fitting is clean and free of debris.

Hoses: I got 3/8 inch 400 psi fuel hose from NAPA by the foot (by the inch, actually) and simply cut new hoses to match the old ones, three altogether on the pump and a 5/16 inch hose on the regulator. I installed them at this point, along with the clamps. I recommend tightening the clamps just enough so they are "pre-positioned." When the time comes to give them a final set it makes it easier not to have to chase them around with two hands. (One exception: the hose clamp on the bottom of the filter assembly must be tightened completely. You just canít get to it once everything else is in place.)

If nothing fell into the hole or onto the cam then lower the new pump. I use a little anti-seize on the housing, thinking it might make removal next time a little easier. Grease should already be on the O ring, but if not, I'd grease it. Tighten the bolts carefully and evenly to secure the pump. Make sure the pump does not get in a bind. Just tighten evenly and it should go into the bore ok, regardless of how the cam eccentric is positioned.

The hardest part of the whole operation, for me at least, was getting the banjo bolt restarted. You will quickly come to understand why the shop manual calls for removal of the turbo pedestal for this operation. (Plus, more shop time equals more money. duh!) You will wish you had a Dremel tool and could cut away some of the "webbing" between the legs of the pedestal. Itís a bit of a struggle, figuring out how to position your hands and fingers for the most efficient way to start that large bolt.

Slide one new metal gasket onto the bolt, insert it into the banjo housing and have the second gasket ready to slide into the slot on the interior side of the fitting as you push the bolt in. It may take a couple of attempts to get that second gasket onto the bolt. Just be sure it doesnít slide on through the fitting and disappear on top of the manifold. Now you just have to carefully turn the bolt with some pressure behind it to "catch" the threads. Once it's started, then it is just a matter of wrenching it in, one tooth at a time. Here's where patience comes in again. Eventually you'll get it in. Then snug it down, recheck the pump hold down bolts for tightness and you're through the worst of it. Time for a congratulatory coffee break. Sometimes even an adult beverage is deservedly appropriate hereÖ

Adjust all the hoses and be sure the clamps are on and positioned for easy access. (Once again, the lower hose will have to be clamped securely to the filter canister at this point since you wonít be able to reach it once the assembly is bolted down.) Lower the filter assembly back onto its pedestal, connecting the lower hose to the fuel pump as you go. Check that the wiring looms and connectors on both sides are positioned correctly. Adjust all three short hoses correctly and tighten the clamps. Remember to "aim" the clamps for easy access later, just in case there is a leak and you need to get to them with a screwdriver or ľ inch socket. Donít forget to reconnect the drain hose also. And CLOSE THE YELLOW WATER DRAIN LEVER.

Install the two 13mm bolts securing the filter housing (I use just a touch of anti-seize) and tighten. Plug in the three wire connectors to the canister and join the loom connectors on the passenger side. Reinstall the 8mm hold-down bracket. (or probably like most of us do, just wire-tie the connector to the GP loom).

Re-attach the FPR, being careful to install the O-ring. Tighten the two 10mm bolts evenly so the O-ring sets properly.

Reconnect HPX hose, the "Y" pipe (donít forget the O-ring) and whatever else you might have removed or disconnected. It is a good time to also re-dry the manifold. Looking for leaks will be a lot easier if everything underneath starts out dry. A long screwdriver and some paper towels work great. Just be sure to get them all back out before you finish.

Check everything twice. Pry back up whatever wires and brackets and connectors and hoses you mashed by laying on them. If it all looks good, reconnect the batteries and you are ready to start.

I leave the heat shield covering the two tops hoses off at this point, just so I can look for leaks once things are up and running. Donít forget to eventually snap it back on, cause there is a lot of heat back there and the hoses will definitely last longer.



A couple of notes here: If you shimmed the FPR, I would remove the shim at this point and start over with a stock set-up. Once you are up and running again, you can work the pressure back up towards the 70ís, using whatever shims work best.

A NOTE OF CAUTION: The FPR housing is very fragile. It is extremely easy to crack the housing by over tightening the Schrader valve or any fittings you might insert to accommodate a PSI gauge. BE VERY LIGHT ON THE TOUCH WHEN TIGHTENING ANYTHING INTO THE SCHRADER VALVE OPENING.

If everything is working ok, it should fire up within a few cranks. Thereafter, it takes a while to purge the air, usually a couple dozen miles of driving before things begin to settle back in to near normal.

WARNING: You will want to take a good light and look for leaks after the engine is running. BE CAREFUL. The fan and belt can change your nickname to Three-Fingered Jack in a heartbeat.

With any luck at all, you are dry as a bone and ready to roll. Check it again after your test-run.

Good luck,
__________________
96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
bugman is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-06-2009, 04:06 PM   #7 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 36
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Thanks Bugman. In the middle of taking it all out right now, came in for a drink. Having trouble getting the pump up out of the motor. The Banjo bolt was a snap, kinda worries me? I found two pumps out there, a Bosch and a AirTex. Which one is better? I know Bosch makes good stuff, never heard of AirTex? Thanks.
shannon80 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-06-2009, 08:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 361
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
i used something to pry under the pump after i got its holddown bolts out. but becare i wasnt being very nice with it and broke the lower half the the pump off that enters the motor but was lucky enough a magnet brought the stem up and i latched on witha vise grips and got it out. oh but as for pumps idk pulled mine to do an e-fuel setup ;>
__________________
2005 KR CC SB Auto 6.0L - "Sold"
1996 F250 Crew Cab LBox 5sp "Sold"
1972 Ford Gran Torino Fastback 351 Cobra Sold

Toy 1- 1996 - CCRB Auto - Intercooled, 10k Mod, E-Fuel

Toy 2- 1967 Ford Fairlane 2Dr Post factory non radio, non ac, manual brakes, manual steering. 80% restored working on interior Body and Paint done- 390FE stock oil eater, C6, Starshifter, Micky T Indy Style 60 Series on back. Originaly Black repainted Black

Work - 2012 F-150 XLT CCSB 5.0L -
96strokerlb is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-08-2009, 06:21 PM   #9 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 36
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Just to let y'all know, still havent gotten the new pump in yet. Been trying to find the right fuel hose to replace all those little hoses connecting betweeen the bowl, pump, etc. Got some fuel line, hope it's the right stuff. Let y'all know how it goes.
shannon80 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-08-2009, 09:14 PM   #10 (permalink)
Lifetime Supporting Member
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
pjwoolw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: San Ramon Ca.
Posts: 768
My Photos: (5)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
The hose should be rated SAE 30R9 or an equivalent. Otherwise you'll be doing it again sooner than later. Most Napa stores carry it.
__________________
Pete in San Ramon

2005 F250 6.0 Lariat 4X4 CC short bed (Stock)

1997 F250 7.3 XLT 4X4 Reg. cab (Stock)

1986 F250 6.9 XLT 4X4 Gone but not forgotten


Last edited by pjwoolw; 09-08-2009 at 09:56 PM.
pjwoolw is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-08-2009, 09:39 PM   #11 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 57
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by shannon80 View Post
Just to let y'all know, still havent gotten the new pump in yet. Been trying to find the right fuel hose to replace all those little hoses connecting betweeen the bowl, pump, etc. Got some fuel line, hope it's the right stuff. Let y'all know how it goes.
Ford sells those sections already precut
waverous is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-08-2009, 10:21 PM   #12 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 36
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Got it all back in and running smoother than before. I used some line called GripLoc, by Flextral. Has a part number J3-06 on it. They supposedly make them for trucks in the local area. If I have any problems with the lines I'll let y'all know. Yeah I bet Ford makes them pre cut, probably charge $50 for the three of them. NAPA tried to sell me 3/8" air hose!! Thanks everyone.
shannon80 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-08-2009, 10:43 PM   #13 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: SoCal
Posts: 74
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
What pjwoolw and waverous said, turbo heat will crisp them in a hurry. If I remember correctly Ford prices wheren't to bad.
Mike
__________________
2013 F350 6.7 4X4 LB CC,3.55 EL

1997 F250 7.3 LB SC,auto,3.55 LS, B&W in the bed,125,000 miles,deep trans pan, 03 SD trans cooler, 4" to the back, Tymar intake, Optix gauges(pyro,trans temp,boost,coolant temp), SD intercooler W/Banks pipes, TW custom tunes
70jeeper is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-12-2009, 11:43 PM   #14 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 36
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Well guys so far, so good. Driven it a few days, went to top the fuel tank off and check mileage. Got 21.3 mpg!! Usually get 18-19, sometimes 20. And I did some city driving. Reckon getting good fuel pressure helps. Hope the hoses hold up, we'll see. If not, I'll repost and say so. But thanks y'all, good sight.
shannon80 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com > Ford Diesels > Power Strokes 1994-1997 General

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



Ľ Wheel & Tire Center

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:26 PM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0

vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.