Re: gear shifter selecter,how to adjust and take the play out?
Transmission Shift Control Cable
1. From inside the vehicle, place the gearshift lever (7210) in the OVERDRIVE position (E4OD). Hang a three-pound weight on the gearshift lever.
2. Raise vehicle on a hoist and position suitable safety stands under vehicle.
3. Remove the shift cable from the transmission lever ball stud.
4. Pull down the lock tab on the shift cable body.
5. Position the gearshift lever in the OVERDRIVE position (E4OD). This is three detents from the front-most lever position with the first position counting as one.
6. Connect the cable end fitting to the transmission lever ball stud.
7. Push up on the lock tab to lock the cable in the correctly adjusted position.
8. Remove safety stands and lower vehicle from hoist. Remove the three-pound weight from the gearshift lever.
9. CAUTION: Under no circumstances should the cable be adjusted in any position other than (D) (OVERDRIVE) for the E4OD automatic transmission.
After making the adjustment, check for park engagement. Check the gearshift lever in all detent positions with the engine (6007) running to make sure of correct detent/transmission actions. Readjust if necessary.
Shift Indicator Cable
1. Remove the four screws from the lower steering column shroud. Remove the lower steering column shroud.
2. Rotate gearshift lever (7210) clockwise until it bottoms out in first gear.
3. Rotate gearshift lever counterclockwise three detents (overdrive position).
4. Hang a three-pound weight on the gearshift lever.
5. Center pointer in the middle of (D) OVERDRIVE position, by rotating the thumbwheel located on right-hand side of steering column actuator housing.
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Rick:Red 97 F350 CC DRW 4.10/LS E4OD, 28,000GVW trans cooler w/170F thermostat, remote ATF filter, Mobil 1 ATF, Sonnax valve & Tricum springs, Tymar Hi Performance Open Air Intake System W/Donaldson B085011 filter, IH water pump w/integrated coolant filter, BD downpipe & BD 4" cat back exhaust, "SWAMPED", Tymar HX mod, Tymar/Bill's 4 posn. "flip-chip" (this bad boy rocks), Isspro EV gages in 3 hole PITA Pod, "Harpooned" Fuel tanks, Bilstein shocks, Gutted EBPV, Alpine CDA-9825 head unit, Pioneer TS-A1671R 6 1/2" 220W Front, Pioneer TS-A6880R 6"X8" 240W rear, FOKISD member, Beavercreek, Ohio (near Dayton)
My Shift lever was real floppy and at times would not start in park, I looked up under the dash and found two screws holding the shift bracket on the bottom end of the shift rod were loose, ( A cable that runs down to the tranny. to shift it was fastened to one end of the shift bracket) tightened them up and now it selects gears like a new truck, if you need any more info. get back to me.
Thanks, Bill Miller.
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1995 F250 XLT Powerstroke, Supercab, E40D tranny, 3.55 limited slip diff. (with all the bells and whistles) bucket seats and console, electric windows and door locks,intermitnent wipers, tilt wheel, cruse control, overdrive and turbo my IDI has none of these.
1985 Ford F-250 6.9L Std.cab,C-6 tranny, 3.55 Diff. DEEZEE Running boards, added factory Tach with existing circuit board, heater water bypass valve.
My Shift lever was real floppy and at times would not start in park, I looked up under the dash and found two screws holding the shift bracket on the bottom end of the shift rod were loose, ( A cable that runs down to the tranny. to shift it was fastened to one end of the shift bracket) tightened them up and now it selects gears like a new truck, if you need any more info. get back to me.
Thanks, Bill Miller.
I found this thread because my shifting was so sloppy I had to count from park to drive. I looked under the steering column and wiggled the shifting lever and discovered two very loose screws. After tightening them, not only did my shifting feel like new, the shift indicator lined up on the letter, imagine that.
My Shift lever was real floppy and at times would not start in park, I looked up under the dash and found two screws holding the shift bracket on the bottom end of the shift rod were loose, ( A cable that runs down to the tranny. to shift it was fastened to one end of the shift bracket) tightened them up and now it selects gears like a new truck, if you need any more info. get back to me.
Thanks, Bill Miller.
+ 1 for another truck fixed (~6 years after this useful info was posted). If you shift lever is sloppy/problematic,, sometimes does not like to start in park, or whatever.... try the above link/fix.
My kids truck would not go into park at all, he called me, and I saw this little bolt with a torx head on the floorboard..... (easy fix). Had I not looked and found this post, i probably would have had the column apart....lol.
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2001 XLT 4WD Crew Cab Long Bed. 170k - Mostly stock except: In-tank and pre-pump (and harpoon),AIS (zoodad and fender sleve to come soon). DP tuner.
Mine was out of whack too. I went under the dash and found that the pointer cable was loose due to a broken white plastic piece that holds the cable and thumbscrew tight.
I fixed it temporarily with an electrical tie because Ford was closed. Someone said you may have to buy the whole cable assembly rather than just the plastic piece. Mine was on a 97
F250. My Brother-in-Law's 2001 Ranger has the same setup and the same piece broke.
Went out and checked those 2 torx head screws after reading this thread. Sure enough, they were very loose. I'm surprised that I didn't have more of an issue.
I'm glad that someone took the time and found & revived this old thread!
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Todd
1997 F Super Duty XL DRW. 7.3 PSD, automatic, DP Tuner F5 4 Position Chip, Diamond Eye 3" down pipe, K&N hardware/Donaldson B085046 filter intake, Riffraff intake boot, Cali Kit, 203º Dieselsite thermostat.
Altec AT 200A boom/bucket, custom built flatbed.
My other diesel: 2008 Bobcat S185.
My Shift lever was real floppy and at times would not start in park, I looked up under the dash and found two screws holding the shift bracket on the bottom end of the shift rod were loose, ( A cable that runs down to the tranny. to shift it was fastened to one end of the shift bracket) tightened them up and now it selects gears like a new truck, if you need any more info. get back to me.
yep on the money here too. but i am missing one of the torx bolts all together does anyone know the size of the torx bolts on the shifter bracket? thanks in advance to any help i can get!!! seems like i remember finding a bolt like that now but its been sooo long dont remember where i put it if i even kept it grrrrr
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'95 F350 CC 4X4 (ex-slope truck) flatbed. Open element intake, 3-4" dp, 4" straight pipe through bumper, shimmed FPR, IDM mod, TW 4 pos. chip, DIY RSK/shackle flip, 315-70-17 BFG AT's, H2 rims, 4.10's, rebuilt E40D, 3 guage a-piller pod w/ Isspro guages, DIY rear disks, SD front bumper, Warn 8000# winch, Explorer power buckets, Dodge center console/seat...
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