GP Replacement - Diesel Forum

kraypilot · 08-24-2007, 01:14 PM

Hey all, I am getting ready to replace my glow plugs. Just a few questions. Will I need to replace the valve cover gaskets? Also, anyone know where to get motorcraft glow plugs for a good price? I have checked ebay, but they dont have motorcraft. Ill keep checking. And, if I need to get new valve cover gaskets, where should I get those?

Thanks!!

Believer45 · 08-24-2007, 01:22 PM

Glow plugs from AutoZone, should still be under $10 each I think. ZD-11 is their part number, they come in Ford part bags with Ford part number on them.

Valve cover gaskets are re-usable unless you have a leak or a problem with a plug for the injector/glow plug wiring.

<font color="red">CLICK HERE</font> to go to an excellent article on the glow plugs.

<font color="red">THIS LINK</font> will take you to the archived thread I started when I did mine. The link in the archived thread does not work any more and the part number for the glow plugs from AutoZone has changed to ZD-11. They are still the Ford parts in Motorcraft part bags.

The hardest thing was the back bolt on the passenger side valve cover. I used a 6" long 3/4 drive extension and a swivel socket after removing the vacuum plenum chamber mentioned in my post. A regular socket and u-joint are just too tall to fit. The extension rides in the "V" formed between the heater housing and the firewall, the socket fits right on the bolt head once the plastic box is taken out.

Hope these help out.

Dave / Believer45

kraypilot · 08-24-2007, 01:36 PM

That article mentions having trouble starting under 35 degrees. My truck starts now, but is taking a lot longer than it used to. Last winter I had the hard start problem. Do you think that the glow plug system is causing my lengthy starts? This happens even after the truck has been running.

WormDrowner · 08-24-2007, 02:33 PM

Two questions:

Have you checked the GP relay?

While cranking & after the engine starts, is it putting out clouds of white smoke?

If the engine is up to operating temperature and it's still hard to start, it's highly unlikely that it's the GP system.

kraypilot · 08-24-2007, 03:22 PM

I have checked the GP relay and it is fine. I know that my winter starting problems are due to the fact that that i need new gp's. Any idea what would cause a long start while its warm? Its not like it doesnt start, it will. It just takes longer than usual.

popsmick12 · 08-24-2007, 04:26 PM

I had that problem a couple of years ago. Batteries checked out OK but after replacement problem went away. Just a thought.

BlindViper · 08-24-2007, 04:48 PM

The first link in believer post will tell you how to check the glow plugs . Even if you test the pins and they could test bad it would be the harness under the valve cover not the glow plug. I replaced mind at 115k when the covers where off for injectors. They ohm'd out perfect and are in a box on the shelf.

**bugman** · 08-24-2007, 07:02 PM

[ QUOTE ]
Hey all, I am getting ready to replace my glow plugs. Just a few questions. Will I need to replace the valve cover gaskets? Also, anyone know where to get motorcraft glow plugs for a good price? I have checked ebay, but they dont have motorcraft. Ill keep checking. And, if I need to get new valve cover gaskets, where should I get those?

Thanks!!

[/ QUOTE ]Check Ebay again. I bought a set of Motorcraft ZD-11's for $30.00. I just checked and on the first page of the Powerstroke stuff there are 2 sets up for bid.

Jim

JoshR · 08-25-2007, 10:41 AM

Re valve cover removal: a 3/8" ratchet with an assortment of extensions, a 13mm std socket, a 13mm deep socket, and a 13mm flex socket (for the rear bolts on each side), will all be needed. A bench to stand on is helpful; I have a pair of 18" h little sawhorses, atop which I screw a 4' piece of 2x12. A stable place to stand really helps. A magnetic tray for all the bolts, etc is a wise idea, as is putting some duct tape across the big leads at the GP relay, so as to avoid those huge sparks when you short them with a tool. Use air to blow off the edges of the VCs and the general area prior to removal, to keep dirt out of the innards. When you've removed the VCGs, clean the connector sockets with brake or carb cleaner (watch out for backspray - you don't want that stuff in your eyes), then inspect the sockets for signs of melting or burning, or discoloration at the outer pins (#1 and 5); I've also found the tiniest cracks between pins 1 and 2, which allows the injector signal to short via the GP wiring, causing a (nearly impossible to find but very audible) miss.

As for your "hard hot start", that is almost always a sign of worn IPR o-rings. The replacement kit is under $20; google "IPR o-ring kit" and you'll find both parts and instructions.

Josh

Believer45 · 08-25-2007, 05:33 PM

Long start warm could be a couple of things. Batteries getting weak, starter wearing (engine cranks but a bit slower and not fast enough for engine computer to allow it to start), even bad connections at the battery cables (battery end AND starter end as well), loose bolts/bad ground between the starter case and the mount. Starter motor gets its ground through the case. Even something as simple as needing an oil change can have an effect.

I recently installed a gear reduction starter from an automotive electrical house near me and am VERY pleased with the results.

Just a few things to check.

Dave / Believer45

kraypilot · 08-26-2007, 04:22 PM

Oil should be good. It has just over 2K miles on it. Batteries are new as of December. It sounds like it is cranking over a the same speed. I will clean the starter contacts and the battery cable connections. After that I will probably replace the IPR o-rings. Oh, I recently came back to college and its in a pretty small town. Everytime I need to go somewhere it is usually a pretty short trip. Most times the engine doesn't reach full operating temperature. Would this have anything to do with it?