Gravity bleeding brakes - Anybody use this method?
Howdy fellas. It's been awhile since my last post, but the o'l 97 is chuggin along strong on $4.50 ULSD (yuck).
Anyways, just a quick question. I'm getting ready to tow the 21' Travel Trailer next weekend, and before we go, I wanted to flush my brakes. (they've gotten a bit spongy and the fluid is pretty nasty). I know the standard method of brake bleeding, like I used to do with my dad on my o'l 86 F150 with the garbage 5.0l in it. But these days, my only helper is my wife, whom i love dearly, but wouldnt trust with my 3" brake pedal travel rule to save my life. I've read a lot about gravity bleeding, and it sounds like it could be the ticket. Low cost, and all it requires is time, which I just happen to have some of (well, more than money anyways). Please let me know you're experiences with the gravity bleeding technique, as I may end up giving it a shot tonight. Thanks a million guys.
Joe
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1997 F250 HD 7.3L PSD E40D 4X4 ; 4" Superlift Suspension, ProComp ES9000 Shocks, Skyjacker Steering Stab.,Energy Suspension Poly Shackle Bushings, DIY Baldwin open element intake, 285/75 R16 AT Liberators,15w40 Rotella T, Valvoline Maxlife Mercron ATF, Power Services Diesel Kleen (cetane +6), Midland 77-120 CB w/ Firestik FL2 4' Antenna. 1900RPM @ 70MPH. 145,000 miles on stock powertrain.
Truck Birth-Month : October, 1997
New Additions: INFANT CAR SEAT....OH NOT AGAIN!
FUTURE ADD-ONS: Chrome wheels, Trans Temp Gauge (someday)
CPO, USN TRUCK PICS
start at the pass rear open it and keep topping the resivor up till clean fluid comes out then close and go to the drivers side and do the same for the rest
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1991 YJ
Dad has a 2004 6.0L all stock.
1960 CJ5 all stock
1987 F-250 XLT lariet 6.9L [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img] 3.55 limited slip, 4 speed, auto meter pyro, Napa water temp and oil pressure, 344,460KM on her. Injector pump rebiult at 255,000 KM Here are some pics of her
Spongy brakes can be a number of things including the brake fluid. As far as towing with bad brakes I would not do it. You never know when you are going to need them. Your best bet is to take it to a shop and have them check it if you don't have the time or even just look at your fluid. If it is getting dark it is time for a full flush.
Spongy brakes can be a number of things including the brake fluid. As far as towing with bad brakes I would not do it. You never know when you are going to need them. Your best bet is to take it to a shop and have them check it if you don't have the time or even just look at your fluid. If it is getting dark it is time for a full flush.
Jim
Just to clarify so nobody's afraid to drive down the highway with me, my brakes don't feel that bad, they just don't feel like "spring chickens" anymore. After all, it's an 11 year old truck. There's plenty of pad left all around, no leaky wheel cylinders or calipers, but the fluid is plenty nasty. I just figured i'd ask around as to whether the gravity deal was a legit option, and if anybody had any pros / cons to the procedure. Regardless, i'll have new fluid in my system by friday, I just am trying to figure if it's something i'll do myself, or employ an alternate method (and no, I'm not buying speed bleeders) Cheers
Joe
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1997 F250 HD 7.3L PSD E40D 4X4 ; 4" Superlift Suspension, ProComp ES9000 Shocks, Skyjacker Steering Stab.,Energy Suspension Poly Shackle Bushings, DIY Baldwin open element intake, 285/75 R16 AT Liberators,15w40 Rotella T, Valvoline Maxlife Mercron ATF, Power Services Diesel Kleen (cetane +6), Midland 77-120 CB w/ Firestik FL2 4' Antenna. 1900RPM @ 70MPH. 145,000 miles on stock powertrain.
Truck Birth-Month : October, 1997
New Additions: INFANT CAR SEAT....OH NOT AGAIN!
FUTURE ADD-ONS: Chrome wheels, Trans Temp Gauge (someday)
CPO, USN TRUCK PICS
Make a homestyle self bleeder with a glass Jar and a peace of old brake -line and rubber hose like vacuum line. Or spend the 5 bucks and buy one of those one man self bleeder deals.
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95 E350 PSD HD Cargo , BB shim , E4OD , B&M aluminium Trans pan , Twin HD coolers , Cat sleeps with the fishes , 3:55 D70FF, Michelin LTX " E " , DP flashed PCM (60 Tow )Autometer Triple Pillar Guage pod , New Injector O-rings /IPR /lift pump / filterbowl @ 235K , Timbrens SES kit
1977 F350 Dually Dump , 460 , 429 POLICE heads , 4:56 D70FF, Edelbrock Intake , Holley 850 dbl pmper ,MSD IGN , Custom HiPo C-6 Trans , Dual Exhausts , Bridgestone "E" Tires
1983 KZ1000R , Yoshimura Stage I
1982 KZ1000 , 1045 Wiseco , Turbo ready
1990 KX500
Just to clarify so nobody's afraid to drive down the highway with me, my brakes don't feel that bad, they just don't feel like "spring chickens" anymore. After all, it's an 11 year old truck. There's plenty of pad left all around, no leaky wheel cylinders or calipers, but the fluid is plenty nasty. I just figured i'd ask around as to whether the gravity deal was a legit option, and if anybody had any pros / cons to the procedure. Regardless, i'll have new fluid in my system by friday, I just am trying to figure if it's something i'll do myself, or employ an alternate method (and no, I'm not buying speed bleeders) Cheers
Joe
Does the emergency brake pedal engage near the bottom of the pedal travel, or is it pretty near the high end of the pedal?
I bet your back brakes are out of adjustment.
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2006 GMC K3500 CC DRW 4x4
1994 F-350 DRW PS w/ zf5
1996 Town Car
I cut a piece of 2X2 lumber to fit between the brake pedal and the bottom of the steering wheel for this purpose. It's also handy when your checking the brake lights.
WORKED GREAT!
Here goes. $.55 cents for a 3' piece of 3/16 clear tubing, turkey baster, mason jar, a 32oz container of DOT3, and a 3/8 box end wrench = Piece of cake.
Removed about 50% of the nasty old brake fluid from the master cylinder with a cheapo turkey baster and disposed into the mason jar. Attached the tubing to the rear passenger bleed screw and cracked her open about 1/4 turn. Sure enough, I got a slow, but constant trickle. I kept filling the master cylinder as it kept trickling out the rear passenger side bleed screw, and was amazed at how many bubbles were coming out. About a half hour elapsed, the bubbles ceased to appear, and clean, clear new DOT 3 began to flow out the tube. Rear Right was done. Repeated the same process with the rear drivers side with the same success, but in about 5 minutes this time as opposed to 30 (figure because they share the same brake line until the R-ABS). Proceeded to the front right and that took a whole whopping 3 minutes or so. Also, I tapped out quite a bit of bubbles just by tapping the caliper with a 3/4" wrench while pinching the fluid tube shut. Then when I would un-pinch the tubing, a healthy bubble would come out instead of a ton of little tiny bubbles. About three tries at this and there were no more bubbles. Front drivers side was a carbon copy of the last, but in about 1.5 minutes flat.
So my end result? My brakes havent felt this good in years. My brake system is entirely flushed, my master cylinder has only clean clear fluid in the reservoir, I did it myself without the possibility of my wife screwing up my master cylinder by pumping too far, I got to drink about 4 beers in the process, I didnt hardly spill a drop of fluid, and lastly, it cost me all of about 6 bucks to do the whole dang thing! What a great deal. Thanks for all the insight guys, and I hope this helps motivate some of you guys to give it a shot. At the worst, you get to spend about an hour drinking a few beers under your truck.
all in all....
A perfect day!
Cheers,
Joe
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1997 F250 HD 7.3L PSD E40D 4X4 ; 4" Superlift Suspension, ProComp ES9000 Shocks, Skyjacker Steering Stab.,Energy Suspension Poly Shackle Bushings, DIY Baldwin open element intake, 285/75 R16 AT Liberators,15w40 Rotella T, Valvoline Maxlife Mercron ATF, Power Services Diesel Kleen (cetane +6), Midland 77-120 CB w/ Firestik FL2 4' Antenna. 1900RPM @ 70MPH. 145,000 miles on stock powertrain.
Truck Birth-Month : October, 1997
New Additions: INFANT CAR SEAT....OH NOT AGAIN!
FUTURE ADD-ONS: Chrome wheels, Trans Temp Gauge (someday)
CPO, USN TRUCK PICS
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