I'm wanting to buy a 1995 F250 7.3PS with 5sp manual tranny.
The only problem with the truck is that it's hard to get into reverse: you set it into place, but it grinds when you let off the clutch. The seller said that pushing very hard on the pedal helps, and it did help when I tried, though not enough to be reliable. I came back here yesterday and read a bunch of posts about the pushrod bushing, went back to the truck this morning, and sure enough, the bushing is broken. The joint was slid over a little, toward coming off the ball. However, I could push the joint all the way onto the ball into what looks like it's intended position, which hence pushed in the rod a tiny bit more (less than 1/16")and this would hold for 5-10 pushes on the pedal, but this didn't seem to make much or any difference in getting it into reverse. Pushing the pedal really hard made the biggest difference.
It goes into all the other gears easily, and does NOT come out of any gear including reverse.
I am hoping y'all will agree that the little bit of play created by the broken bushing is the most likely culprit, and not something in the tranny, like synchronizer, etc. Is there a way to adjust the throw of that pushrod?, because it seems just like it's not getting pushed in enough.
First thing would be to replace the bushing. Ford part number E69Z*7526*A
List July 21, 2005 (last I bought one) was 11.31.
Many have done mods to the area including me. If you get a drill stop that fits over the stub the rod fits onto, trim off the 4 tabs on the end of the bushing and it on with the drill stop it will hold for a long time. Mine has been in place two years so far with no problems.
CLICK HERE to see a pic. If you have looked at yours you can tell what I did in mine.
I did put in a LUK clutch to get rid of the dual mass flywheel and the engagement point is a coupe inches off the floor instead of right at the floor so that helps as well.
Dave / Believer45
__________________ THANK YOU to all the heroes in our military and all the heroes at home who wait for their safe return. I am humbled by and grateful for your service and sacrifice.
'95 F250 ext cab long bed, PSD, 5 speed, 2 wheel drive, 3.55 gears, 286,000 miles, Edge Evolution CTS (LINK TO MY REVIEW), LUK clutch, homemade REAR BUMPER, open element AIR FILTER, 36" ARE contractor cap. With tools, full of fuel and me on board (300 lbs) steer 3620, drive 3860 total 7480.
Last edited by Believer45; 11-26-2008 at 01:43 PM.
Reason: Add pic link
That sounds familiar. My father-in-law has the same problem. If the original clutch went too long, it might have created a flex in the firewall or pedal bracket from pushing so hard. I understand Ford has a kit to repair this. This could be part of, and hopefully for you the whole problem. In his case, the clutch change and other work came too late. The synchronizer and reverse gear are permanently damaged and the local transmission shop won't touch it because the ZF tranny's parts are very expensive and difficult to replace because the tolerances are tight. He's having to put the truck in reverse before he starts it now. If your tranny is damaged and too much to fix, there is a website on ebay that I found a reman unit for about $1000 plus a $500 core.
Ask the guy about the history on the clutch. I have a 97 with same tranny, and my pedal was also stiff. I changed over from the stock dual mass flywheel to a Luk single mass flywheel and clutch kit, and I believe it saved my tranny and firewall, plus I gained a little torque, acceleration, about 1 mpg, and a noiseless flywheel.
Bottom line, check that firewall and replace the clutch with a Luk kit if it hasn't been already and that should be the end of your problems, that is, if you decide to buy the truck.
__________________ 97 F250HD SC SB PSD ZF 5SPD 4X4 OFF ROAD 230K CHROME GRILLE GUARD GOOSENECK WARN MANUAL HUBS LUK SMFW KIT FIRESTONE AIRSTROKE AIRBAGS OTHERWISE STOCK FOR NOW SOLD FOR PAYOFF
NEW OLD TRUCK: 94 F250 SC LB POWERSTROKE ZF 5SPD 2WD HERCULES REAR BUMPER NOTHING FANCY
Just keep in mind that if the truck has a dual mass flywheel still that you will need to replace the flywheel and the clutch. If a shop is going to do it for you then you could be looking at $1500-$2000 for the switchover.
__________________
1996 F250 4x4 ext. cab, long bed 5 spd. 3.55ls, Tymar Intake, Tymar 4" downpipe and 4" exhaust. AIC, B&W turnoverball, EBPV brake, tranny temp gauge, boost gauge, and egt gauge. 2.5" axle drop bracket, F350 springs up front, and F350 rear axle blocks. 260k miles. RETIRED.
NEW (to me) 2005 F350 FX4 Crewcab shortbed, SRW, Lariat, auto, V10. 5600 lbs front end.
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