How often/miles shoudl you replace your glow plugs to make sure that you dont get one stuck? Should you run any kind of additive in the fuel/oil before the procedure?
There are too many variables to say at a certain amount of miles you should change them just to prevent them from sticking. The best you can do is use only Motorcraft/Beru brand GP's and put a dab of antisieze on the threads before installing them. A engine that runs rich and does not come up to normal operating temps (short trips) will be more likely to have carbon buildup on the tip of the GP's.
I just changed mine for the first time at 56,500 miles. They all came out just fine and had no build-up on them. I am sure I could have gone to 80,000 or 100,000 with no problems but I had one bad plug on each side so I just changed them all. I don't think there is a set time to change them but I personally would not go over 100,000 miles on a set just because of the horror story's I have heard about getting them out. I think the biggest removal problems comes from plugs other than the Motorcraft Beru's.
I agree with the above post. You have to figure that if you have 100,000 miles on your truck and you drive it only on long hauls of a couple thousand miles each way they might last longer than others that use their truck for a daily driver with a lot of starts and stops. I am planning on doing mine this summer at around 90,000. Most of my driving with the truck is long distance 300+ miles one way but I consider that it will just be a preventive maintence measure, like changing the antifreeze every 30,000-40,000 miles. <ul type="square"> Jim[/list]
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96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages,Dark Toumaline, add a leaf,Dale's TYMAR,and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter with coolant eye
When you changed your plugs, did the two that were burned out have any more carbon on them than the others that were still operating?
Thanks,
Bill Miller
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1995 F250 XLT Powerstroke, Supercab, E40D tranny, 3.55 limited slip diff. (with all the bells and whistles) bucket seats and console, electric windows and door locks,intermitnent wipers, tilt wheel, cruse control, overdrive and turbo my IDI has none of these.
1985 Ford F-250 6.9L Std.cab,C-6 tranny, 3.55 Diff. DEEZEE Running boards, added factory Tach with existing circuit board, heater water bypass valve.
I changed Mine out for the first time at around 271,000 miles. I had four dead plugs, two on each side. You could tell which ones were bad when they came out but they didn't have a lot of carbon buildup on them, just a different color. But all My miles are long highway miles, 60 mile commute to work daily. My advice if You think Your going to have problems is to run some injector cleaner like Power Service, Stanadyne, etc. and take a L-O-N-G highway trip before You replace them.
I was also told by a PSD Tech when I first got My truck in '96 to never increase engine speed when the GP's are on, the alternator charges more and increases voltage and that shortens the life of the GP's.
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Denny
'96 F-250 Reg. Cab 4X4 5-sp POWERSTROKE
294,000 mi & NO Problems, LUK Clutch, and the Cat is buried in the back yard!
[ QUOTE ]
Hey Kevin,
When you changed your plugs, did the two that were burned out have any more carbon on them than the others that were still operating?
[/ QUOTE ]
Nope, the only way I could tell which ones were bad was with a meter. They all looked the same with no carbon at all.
255,000 all original plugs one dead been that way for a couple of years. If it was on the drivers side I would have replaced it by now but been waiting to do it with new injectors.
I think the horror stories are mostly from inexperience but you will have some odd ball issues once in awhile.
If you have a bad one (easy to check without a wrench) just run something through the engine that reduces carbon deposits before hand and have something to bust up carbon handy when you remove it so you can spray or pour it in around it once the treads are clear. If you spray or pour anything in there roll it over or bump crnak it over a few times with the glow plug out to blow out excess so you don't bend a rod.
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99 Superduty F-350 XLT 7.3 Auto, Dually, reg cab, 8' walk in utility bed 290,000 miles
<font color="red"> 97 crew cab F-350 SRW 4x4, long bed, 255,000+ miles, 3:55 gears, 255-85-16 tires (33 tall x 10 wide), running Rotela synthetic oil, ford filters, 3" DP, Heavy built E4OD with TUGGER, 7.5' Western Pro plow w/wings </font>
98 VW BEETLE TDI 5 speed for the wife
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