Okay, I don't drive my truck much these days as I bought a car to drive every day when diesel was $4.79 a gallon, so I've put maybe 2000 miles on my truck in the last 18 months. I just use it now for "Truck" things. But here's the deal. This past summer I noticed my tranny was getting hotter than normal. (Normal ~145/Now ~180) My tranny used to NEVER get to 180 unless I was pulling my camper in extremely hot weather, and then it wouldn't go OVER 180. So, I couldn't find anything else wrong with the transmission, so I went ahead and pulled my camper to the beach and back. No problems. That was in August. Now, when I drive my truck, I'm getting some slipping, and what seems like a reluctance to shift out of first gear some times. But get this... It only seems to do it right after I've mad a sharp right hand turn, and it doesn't do it every time. If I let off the gas and et the RPM's fall back down, it seems to grab and be fine. I haven't gotten any flashing O/D light, and the tranny is full. Is this my torque converter going, or is there something inside the tranny that can do this? Is it possible the filter has fallen out of the tranny? Any ideas? Thanks for your help.
Chris
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1996 F250 XL 4X4 Automatic, 3:55 gears, Regular cab. Cruise control mod. Big tranny cooler. Autometer Phantom boost, pyro and tranny temp guages. Hypermax downpipe. Homemade open air intake. TS 6 position chip. Sonnax valve and tricumulator springs. Billit torque converter. 182,000 miles so far.
I would change the fluid and filter an see what happens . You could have some crap stuck in the valve body or other spots from it sitting all this time. These trucks have to be driven . . .
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95 E350 PSD HD Cargo , BB shim , E4OD , B&M aluminium Trans pan , Twin HD coolers , Cat sleeps with the fishes , 3:55 D70FF, Michelin LTX " E " , DP flashed 60 Tow , 140 V idm , Autometer Triple Pillar Guage pod , New Injector O-rings /IPR /lift pump / filterbowl @ 235K , Timbrens SES kit , replaced lift pump /ICP/ IDM @ 256 K
1977 F350 Dually Dump , 460 , 429 POLICE heads , 4:56 D70FF, Edelbrock Intake , Holley 850 dbl pmper ,MSD IGN , Custom HiPo C-6 Trans , Dual Exhausts , Bridgestone "E" Tires
1983 KZ1000R , Yoshimura Stage I
1982 KZ1000 , 1045 Wiseco , Turbo ready
1990 KX500
Okay, I don't drive my truck much these days as I bought a car to drive every day when diesel was $4.79 a gallon, so I've put maybe 2000 miles on my truck in the last 18 months. I just use it now for "Truck" things. But here's the deal. This past summer I noticed my tranny was getting hotter than normal. (Normal ~145/Now ~180) My tranny used to NEVER get to 180 unless I was pulling my camper in extremely hot weather, and then it wouldn't go OVER 180. So, I couldn't find anything else wrong with the transmission, so I went ahead and pulled my camper to the beach and back. No problems. That was in August. Now, when I drive my truck, I'm getting some slipping, and what seems like a reluctance to shift out of first gear some times. But get this... It only seems to do it right after I've mad a sharp right hand turn, and it doesn't do it every time. If I let off the gas and et the RPM's fall back down, it seems to grab and be fine. I haven't gotten any flashing O/D light, and the tranny is full. Is this my torque converter going, or is there something inside the tranny that can do this? Is it possible the filter has fallen out of the tranny? Any ideas? Thanks for your help.
Chris
I doubt it's a torque converter as much as a failing transmission. It could be a low line pressure issue - but it would appear that you're at the mileage about due for a transmission anyway.
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2006 GMC K3500 CC DRW 4x4
1994 F-350 DRW PS w/ zf5
1996 Town Car
Drain the trans and the torque convertor and blow out the cooler lines. Change the filter and refill to proper level and check it out then.
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97 F-350 XLT CCLB 4X4,PSD
Gauges(boost/pyro) on triple pillar pod
CAI
IDM mod
4" DE turbo back catless exhaust
TS 6 pos. Chip
3" PA Body lift
ES body and suspension bushings/mounts
Extreme duty trans w/billet triple disc converter
B&M deep pan
Hayden "DAWG" trans cooler
Adrenaline HPOP
stage II's, D66, then custom tunes.
Thanks for the replies. Any advice on who to go for for a new tranny? I remember there was a guy on here that everybody used a while back. Is he still around? How about Jon? I hate to put 3 grand in a 6 grand truck, but I also hate to buy a new one. Especially when I don't use it that often. I may just service the tranny this weekend and blow out the lines, but I'm afraid I need a rebuild.
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1996 F250 XL 4X4 Automatic, 3:55 gears, Regular cab. Cruise control mod. Big tranny cooler. Autometer Phantom boost, pyro and tranny temp guages. Hypermax downpipe. Homemade open air intake. TS 6 position chip. Sonnax valve and tricumulator springs. Billit torque converter. 182,000 miles so far.
My understanding is that the Torque Convertor is the weak link in the E40d. That being said , I would spend the money on a quality convertor and rebuild it ike you said with quality internals. Your other parts should be OK .
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95 E350 PSD HD Cargo , BB shim , E4OD , B&M aluminium Trans pan , Twin HD coolers , Cat sleeps with the fishes , 3:55 D70FF, Michelin LTX " E " , DP flashed 60 Tow , 140 V idm , Autometer Triple Pillar Guage pod , New Injector O-rings /IPR /lift pump / filterbowl @ 235K , Timbrens SES kit , replaced lift pump /ICP/ IDM @ 256 K
1977 F350 Dually Dump , 460 , 429 POLICE heads , 4:56 D70FF, Edelbrock Intake , Holley 850 dbl pmper ,MSD IGN , Custom HiPo C-6 Trans , Dual Exhausts , Bridgestone "E" Tires
1983 KZ1000R , Yoshimura Stage I
1982 KZ1000 , 1045 Wiseco , Turbo ready
1990 KX500
You got to get a a scan before you do anything, that's for sure.
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Bumper to bumper, Full Synthetic!!! Rotella T 5-40(7.3L) -- Mobil 1 Mercon V(E40D) -- Amsoil Extreme 75-90(Danas 60) -- Detroit Lakes, Minnesota -- "Boating has always been a rich mans hobby". -- 1996 E350 XLT Club Wagon 15 Passenger Van. -- Purchased 10-21-2009 for $700 cash with 620,000 miles on it! -- It's mint and beautiful! -- I love it! -- I am 64 years old and a professional mechanic and truck driver for over 45 years. --I am now a rich man driving a $50,000 prime time Ford that gets 21 MPG(HWY) & 16 MPG(Town).
Thanks for the replies. Any advice on who to go for for a new tranny? I remember there was a guy on here that everybody used a while back. Is he still around? How about Jon? I hate to put 3 grand in a 6 grand truck, but I also hate to buy a new one. Especially when I don't use it that often. I may just service the tranny this weekend and blow out the lines, but I'm afraid I need a rebuild.
I would take it to a local transmission shop that is highly recommended by local folks. You might even talk to a few mechanics you deal with and see who they send their stuff out to. Out here everyone uses Cottman transmission in Kansas City - but I would use a local shop that people speak highly of. I would be surprised if this is one of the big name ones like AAMCO.
Anyway - take it to them and let them diagnose it themselves. Be prepared to spend the full price on a transmission. They can probably put heavy duty clutch packs or an aftermarket valve body on it like one of the expensive rebuilt transmissions if that's what you want - but the original one got 170k miles out of it. You can't ask for much more than that!
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2006 GMC K3500 CC DRW 4x4
1994 F-350 DRW PS w/ zf5
1996 Town Car
You got to get a a scan before you do anything, that's for sure.
I don't think a scan is going to show anything if there is no O/D light flashing or a check engine light on. It has to set a code for me to read one. I guess I could just keep driving it until it did throw a code, but I kind of hate to mess up more than I have to.
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1996 F250 XL 4X4 Automatic, 3:55 gears, Regular cab. Cruise control mod. Big tranny cooler. Autometer Phantom boost, pyro and tranny temp guages. Hypermax downpipe. Homemade open air intake. TS 6 position chip. Sonnax valve and tricumulator springs. Billit torque converter. 182,000 miles so far.
I would take it to a local transmission shop that is highly recommended by local folks. You might even talk to a few mechanics you deal with and see who they send their stuff out to. Out here everyone uses Cottman transmission in Kansas City - but I would use a local shop that people speak highly of. I would be surprised if this is one of the big name ones like AAMCO.
Anyway - take it to them and let them diagnose it themselves. Be prepared to spend the full price on a transmission. They can probably put heavy duty clutch packs or an aftermarket valve body on it like one of the expensive rebuilt transmissions if that's what you want - but the original one got 170k miles out of it. You can't ask for much more than that!
Therein lies my biggest problem. There isn't a transmission place within a few hundred miles from here I would trust. Aamco rebuilt my brothers transmission years ago, and it was WORSE when he got it back. So they rebuilt it twice more trying to fix the problems but never could get it right. He ended up broken down in Orlando and the Aamco place there fixed it properly. When I spend the money to rebuild it, I want it BETTER than stock. But I just don't have anybody I trust. Maybe I'll post this over on the performence side and see who they are using these days.
Thanks for your help.
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1996 F250 XL 4X4 Automatic, 3:55 gears, Regular cab. Cruise control mod. Big tranny cooler. Autometer Phantom boost, pyro and tranny temp guages. Hypermax downpipe. Homemade open air intake. TS 6 position chip. Sonnax valve and tricumulator springs. Billit torque converter. 182,000 miles so far.
Therein lies my biggest problem. There isn't a transmission place within a few hundred miles from here I would trust. Aamco rebuilt my brothers transmission years ago, and it was WORSE when he got it back. So they rebuilt it twice more trying to fix the problems but never could get it right. He ended up broken down in Orlando and the Aamco place there fixed it properly. When I spend the money to rebuild it, I want it BETTER than stock. But I just don't have anybody I trust. Maybe I'll post this over on the performence side and see who they are using these days.
Thanks for your help.
There's got to be somebody. That's why I recommended checking with mechanics. They don't want cars coming back and are not going to send work to a shoddy mechanic.
Part of my comment is that it's hard to fully diagnose the problem on a board. I would hate to see you flush the lines and fluid, take it in for a scan, and do whatever other advice you got only to find out that you spent $300 on a transmission that's still bad and be in the same place you are.
I would also hate to give you advice that caused you to replace an otherwise good transmission.
Slipping can only be caused from low line pressure or bad clutches. IMHO either of those is a death sentence for a tranny with 170k miles on it. I am a big believer in using a local shop in case there is a problem with it. There are some good rebuilders out there but you want the warranty with it and installation labor isn't bad on a transmission (at least compared to the cost of the unit itself).
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2006 GMC K3500 CC DRW 4x4
1994 F-350 DRW PS w/ zf5
1996 Town Car
Workinman,
I was in the same spot as you and looked into swapping to a manual transmission but the lack of used parts in my area made that difficult. I ended up getting a Ford Reman Kit for $1980 which included the TC and oil, OK it’s not a bullet proof BTS or Woods Trans, but it did not cost $4000. The original trans lasted 150,000 and the Reman has a three year, 100,000 mile warrantee. If the stock trans gave you good service on a stock truck, why not get a reman with the latest upgrades? My total cost for the whole deal was $2380 and it has a Warrantee good at any Ford dealer. Just my .02
GregJ
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95 F350,PSD,CC,DRW,AT,4.10,Exaust Brake,77 Gal Transfer Flo Tank,Tiara Conversion
170,000 miles doesn't mean it is toast. Is the fluid dark or smell like it's burned.If the truck doesn't shudder at 1800 rpm's or under, then its probably not the torque converter. Your slipping in a curve sounds like filter issues. Did you say you use synthetic fluid? For how long ? You have some power adders and a stock trans. 1996 and older doesnt have the 1997 upgrades. DO NOT go with a Ford reman. The warranty is only good at the installing dealer and only with all your paperwork. You can get work done at other dealers if you have problems, BUT what they don't tell you is that ANY work,warranty or not comes out of the installing dealers pocket. They all watch each others back. I've been there. You need to start talking to private shops and take your time. Never AAmco or other "nationwide warranty shops. You need to find out what the upgrades are when talking and you will figure out who knows what. Dont use a stock TC and use a real shift kit not a plug and play deal. If you arent prepared to pay at least $3000 then you need to forget the trans. Any less and you will be back into it before long. I have experience in this or else I wouldn't waste your time. A code scan can't help here. Find a trans shop that has a tech with a real tool that can trouble shoot .
170,000 miles doesn't mean it is toast. Is the fluid dark or smell like it's burned.If the truck doesn't shudder at 1800 rpm's or under, then its probably not the torque converter. Your slipping in a curve sounds like filter issues. Did you say you use synthetic fluid? For how long ? You have some power adders and a stock trans. 1996 and older doesnt have the 1997 upgrades. DO NOT go with a Ford reman. The warranty is only good at the installing dealer and only with all your paperwork. You can get work done at other dealers if you have problems, BUT what they don't tell you is that ANY work,warranty or not comes out of the installing dealers pocket. They all watch each others back. I've been there. You need to start talking to private shops and take your time. Never AAmco or other "nationwide warranty shops. You need to find out what the upgrades are when talking and you will figure out who knows what. Dont use a stock TC and use a real shift kit not a plug and play deal. If you arent prepared to pay at least $3000 then you need to forget the trans. Any less and you will be back into it before long. I have experience in this or else I wouldn't waste your time. A code scan can't help here. Find a trans shop that has a tech with a real tool that can trouble shoot .
You bring up some interesting points here. My fluid (Mobil 1) has indeed been in there for awhile, but it still looks nice on the dip stick and it doesn't smell bad. And now that you mention it, the truck has been "shuddering" for awhile. Mostly when I'm pulling my camper and I'm trying to speed up. I get this shuddering feeling every time. Is that the TC?
My wife tells me last night that the transmission has been slipping on her at times other than making a right turn, so maybe it's just doing that when I drive it. She says it slips on her just pulling away from stop lights.
I'm still shopping for someone locally that knows a thing or two. I really don't want a Ford reman because I've heard so many bad things about them. I got a price on a BTS unit, and I would love to have one, but I'm reluctant to spend $4500 when the truck is worth about $6000 regardless of whose tranny is in it. I would not have a problem dropping 3 grand for a decent rebuild, but I hate to spend too much more than that on it.
So maybe I just need a new TC? What are your thoughts?
Thanks again,
Chris
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1996 F250 XL 4X4 Automatic, 3:55 gears, Regular cab. Cruise control mod. Big tranny cooler. Autometer Phantom boost, pyro and tranny temp guages. Hypermax downpipe. Homemade open air intake. TS 6 position chip. Sonnax valve and tricumulator springs. Billit torque converter. 182,000 miles so far.
Talk to the diesel mechanic at your local Ford dealer. Around here they use a local shop for their transmission work. Like said above they do not want repairs coming back. Just do some research and good luck.
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