Alright.... My truck has been starting hard for the last year or so (excluding a couple HOT summer months) I know the glow plugs work. I just replaced the glow plug relay. Just replaced a valve cover gasket and UVCH. AND I just put all new o-rings on my injectors. The o-rings that I replaced were original and they looked fine (at least they weren't cracked or falling apart). In about 2500 miles I haven't lost any oil at all. Im not loosing coolant, and the coolant doesn't look dirty. Is the next step injectors? They are original and now the truck has 194000mi on it. The hard starting consists of taking at least 10 secs. to finally start coupled with heavy white smoke fading into black smoke then once its running there will be a white haze out of the tailpipe until it warms up. When it is really hard to start ill also get black puffs of smoke when i rev the engine (again only until it warms up)...
P.S. What should the voltage drop at the GP relay be when the GP's are under a load
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Brad
96 F-250 extended cab long bed, 5-speed, Luk clutch, 4x4, 4.10, 3" lift, 35x12.5 BF All-terrains, 3" down pipe, straight pipe, shimmed FPR with gauge, stage 1 injectors, Dp-Tuner F-5 80 econ. 1100 HI-Idle 100HP Performance, Gauge style switch, ISSPRO pyro and boost, water temp, oil pressure, SuperDuty starter. 193,000 and counting
Last edited by blaster1288 : 10-15-2008 at 10:55 AM.
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Rick.....
97 F 350 ...Lucky 13 "Most stuff's just stuck & needs hittin with a hammer"....
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I have a 94psd that did the same thing. I replaced everything I could think of. If you listen when cranking, how long does it take til you hear the injectors start clicking? If it is a bit, look at your battery cables and connections (also the batteries as mentioned above). My injectors would not start clicking til after around 5 seconds, then it would start. I replaced the positive cable and now it starts wonderfully.
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2005 F250 LARIAT CC 4X4 6.0L PARROT CK3200 bluetooth car kit, Shaker 500 system, nice set of train horns, twin viair compressors and 5gal tank, 5" MBRP turbo back, AFE stage II intake, SCT tuner.
1996 F350 AT, IDM and switched ICP mod
1995 F250 SC AT, IDM and switched ICP mod, 6" susp 2" body lifts.
1994.5 F250 SC 5spd 4x4 IDM and ICP mod
Just because you hear the click of the GPR doesn't mean it is working. I just replaced one on my son's 95. It was getting hard to start in the mornings. I found a test procedure on here using the search. But basically, you measure the voltage from each of the large posts (one multimeter lead to ground and test each large contact) when you first turn it on and you hear the click. It should be relatively the same voltage (I think it was a .03v difference or something like that).
I hope this helps you out. I have learned alot of stuff about my 4 PSDs on this forum.
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2005 F250 LARIAT CC 4X4 6.0L PARROT CK3200 bluetooth car kit, Shaker 500 system, nice set of train horns, twin viair compressors and 5gal tank, 5" MBRP turbo back, AFE stage II intake, SCT tuner.
1996 F350 AT, IDM and switched ICP mod
1995 F250 SC AT, IDM and switched ICP mod, 6" susp 2" body lifts.
1994.5 F250 SC 5spd 4x4 IDM and ICP mod
Double check that glow plugs are with in spec and working and if all are good then you MAY have injector poppet valve ware and the cold oil will not let the poppet seats seal untill after a few minutes of warm up time.
This can be checked by using a feeler gauge to measure armature plate clearance on cold injector. If you want to further look at this let me know and I will give you more details on how to measure armature plate spec. The injectors can stay in engine but it involves pulling off valve covers and the removing the solenoids on top of each injector and using a feeler gauge to measure the gap between armature plate and injector base. I had the same problem on my black F250 and the engine would not start. I bought this truck as NON RUNNING from Ford lot and then I did all the basics such as glow plugs, relay,UVC gaskets and harness's and still had NO START. Dave over at SWAMP DIESEL PERFORMANCE educated me on the poppet seat problem on high milage injectors and showed me how to check the clearance on the armature plate. I had 5 injectors fail the spec and I elected to go with Swamps Performance BABY SWAMPS Injectors. Never looked back You should plug in the block heater one night and if it starts right up then you should look at the problem being the poppet seats only after you are 100% sure glow plugs and relay are good
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Jim Sult / Excavator (we dig it) Trying to fix it? KISS IT"KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID" Avatar- purchased off Ford lot as NON RUNNING ENGINE - I drove it off lot in 1 hour/ my everyday 1996 F250 XLT Ext Cab, Powerstroke, 4x4 Dana 60 , Bilsteins shocks, Greggs MB AutoTrans, BabySwamps,Tony Wildman Chip, AutoMeter Pyro/Trans/Boost, Tymar intake, MBRP 4 in turbo back exhaust, 183000 miles,D&B HT Starter
1996 F350 XL PowerStroke 4X4 DRW, Auto Trans, Stock Work Dump truck, DDP down pipe,Tymar intake, 113000 miles
1997 F350 XL 2x4 DRW Powerstroke , DP Tuner PCM, 5 speed,Luk Clutch Tymar intake. DPP downpipe, 185,000 miles
That would be great if I could get some more information on clearances and stuff for the poppet valve. I think I have narrowed it down to injectors by replacing everything else. Like i said I have tested and replaced glow plugs and realy. Tested continuity and replaced VC gasket and UVCH. Another reason I don't think its the glow plugs is because it is starting hard and smokin' like a som'bi%$# at about 70 degrees. I'm willing to check anything before spending the money on new injectors. By the way does anyone know where to get a replacement block heater? My plug disappeared (hit the tire when driving down the road) and my heating element might be bad.
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Brad
96 F-250 extended cab long bed, 5-speed, Luk clutch, 4x4, 4.10, 3" lift, 35x12.5 BF All-terrains, 3" down pipe, straight pipe, shimmed FPR with gauge, stage 1 injectors, Dp-Tuner F-5 80 econ. 1100 HI-Idle 100HP Performance, Gauge style switch, ISSPRO pyro and boost, water temp, oil pressure, SuperDuty starter. 193,000 and counting
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96 F-250 extended cab long bed, 5-speed, Luk clutch, 4x4, 4.10, 3" lift, 35x12.5 BF All-terrains, 3" down pipe, straight pipe, shimmed FPR with gauge, stage 1 injectors, Dp-Tuner F-5 80 econ. 1100 HI-Idle 100HP Performance, Gauge style switch, ISSPRO pyro and boost, water temp, oil pressure, SuperDuty starter. 193,000 and counting
You should plug in the block heater one night and if it starts right up then you should look at the problem being the poppet seats only after you are 100% sure glow plugs and relay are good
, Bilsteins shocks, Greggs MB AutoTrans, Baby 
Swamps,Tony Wildman 
Chip, AutoMeter Pyro/Trans/Boost, Tymar intake, MBRP 4 in turbo back exhaust, 183000 miles,D&B HT Starter
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