International Water Pump...revisited

[spaceballs]

I didn't get a chance to start yet. I am still waiting on that last fitting. I should have ordered it earlier in the week. This gave me a chance to think about a couple of other things before I start.

I am not sure that my thermostat is the right size. Again, it is a Napa part for a 95 7.3, which is a short stem. On my truck right now, I have a long stem 203. I see where the plunger should sit on the waterpump, but my thermostat doesn't quite reach. Should it reach the hole while it is cold?

The other question is much simpler. What are the sizes of the three bolts that hold the housing down? I would like to replace those.

Does anyone know the torque specs for all of the bolts on the pump?

[talford]

I don't know if the napa stat for a '95 will fit, I used the one from IH (195 degree) since it is their pump . I've got the old IH 192 degree stat (ran in the pump for 35,000 mi.) here on my desk and it sure looks short stem to me.From bot of top flange (where it seats in pump body) to bot of the smaller 1 1/4 " plunger on bottom is exactly 1 1/16 inch - I guess that would be 'closed' position. has a 1/16" hole for air bleed in main flange.surprised me that IH is asking $24.44 before tax for this 195 degree stat.IH #1845804C1.

I could never find if anyone on this board is running a 203 degree in the IH pump.

Can't find the water inlet pipe bolt size in the manual.

Torque specs: per Ford shop manual

outlet pipe (3) bolts 15 lb./ft (EASY to overtighten and bend base) section 03-03-14
water pump bolts (bolt pump to engine) 15 lb./ft. section 03-01D-22
water pump pulley bolts (fan pully)12-18 lb./ft. 03-01D-22


Fan clutch assembly installs clockwise (right hand thread) torque is 84-112 lb./ft., but no way to use torque wrench on it.

Wish you had an IH dealer near, then you could take your stat down there and have them pull #1845804C1 and you could hold them up against each other and see if same length.

Tom in Pearland.

[spaceballs]

This job is nearly done. However, I may have made a mistake. I cannot get the temperature probe out of the old pump. Is it OK to run without one for a while until I can get a new one?

My next question: what is the PN on that thing?

EDIT: Two more things. The 203 stat from dieselsite is too long for this pump! The belt I used [Napa NBH25081213] works! It isn't quite as tight as the other one was, but there is tension on it. These are some good things to hang on to!

[BlueMule]

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My next question: what is the PN on that thing?


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F1SZ-10884-A

[spaceballs]

The guy that I talked to at Ford quoted me $140 for that part. I got one at O'Reilly for $6.

I think that it is all together now, and I think that I am just about ready to call this one done. I just have one more question...

My temperature gauge doesn't budge. I did change out that temperature sensor, but I tightened it on really well and made sure the wire connector was snug on it. I don't think that is it.

I think that this is proof that my thermostat is the wrong size. I used Napa's stat for a 95 PSD. I think that I need to make the trip to International and get the right part. I did turn the heat on and it was warm.

Does this sound like a bad stat or a bad temperature sensor?

[spaceballs]

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The only problem I have had is teh upper hose neck. i have had to replace it twice due to warpage and leaks. I wish soemone would make a billet aluminum neck for these trucks.

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Try O'Reilly Auto Parts [PN # MRY 85001]. It ran me about $22.99, which was $15 less than what Ford wanted. It is shiny, and definitely stronger than the Ford one. No warranty.

...by the way, I bent mine, too, while ruining two of the three bolts. It took something else to get my drill down there to extract them. It has been a long couple of days...

[See post above]
Do you think that it is the stat or the temp probe?

[BlueMule]

Did you use teflon tape on the new temp sensor? If so, that could be the problem. It depends on a ground from the block to complete the circuit.

[spaceballs]

Good to know...Can I just pull it out? Or will I dump a bunch of coolant if I do?

[BigRed CC Dually]

You will lose coolant. Drain a 'lil bit from the radiator to lower the level some. Look at the degas bottle and visualize that any coolant above where the temp sensor is located will escape if an imaginary line were drawn between the temp sensor and the degas bottle. You can check the functioning of the gage by shorting the sensor wire to the pump with the key in the run position. Shorted it should go full scale.

[spaceballs]

I got it pulled out. I then pulled all of the teflon tape off of it. I am still getting no reading on the temp gauge. Should I replace the thermostat? Like I said, the heat still works...I just don't want to burn out this truck.

Is there a fuse associated with this that I might check? I did have to drive around with this thing unhooked for a while yesterday. Thanks!

[spaceballs]

OK...I replaced the thermostat with the International part today. It was roughly the same size as the one that I pulled off [95 7.3 PSD 205-Deg]. Then, I grounded the wire out and switched it to run - the needle goes all the way over. I hook it back up and nothing.

The needle seems to move back and forth a little bit but doesn't really go anywhere. I did replace the coolant sensor with a Borg Warner part from O-Reilly. I figured that they were probably the OEM. My next guess is to switch coolant sensor with the part from Ford.

[spaceballs]

I just drove around for a while this morning with the degas bottle cap off to try and bleed any air out of the system. Nothing happened. I also pulled the probe out and cleaned the threads with a wire brush and did the same thing to the hole in the pump. Some junk came off, but not much. Should I just replace the sensor with a Ford part?

Help!?!

[BigRed CC Dually]

Sorry to get back with you so late, been preoccupied around here with some medical problems.

Do you have heat? By that I mean good hot heat from the heater and defrost? Also does the top radiator hose get hot? If the top of the radiator is not hot then the thermostat is not opening. If the thermostat is opening then the top hose should be hot to the touch and the lower return hose should be warm to cool which would indicate good flow and cooling. If this is not the case then I suspect that there is still air in the system and a good hard drive will help. I noticed that I had a hard time getting a good consistent reading on the gage the first time I changed out the coolant when I first got the truck. I simply removed the degas cap and ran it pretty good down the highway for a while with the heater full hot and the fan on high. I noticed the gage bouncing a little at first when I got good heat in the cab and then checked under the hood to be sure things were not too hot (boil-over) and continued to run it. When I finally got a good reading on the gage I replaced the degas cap. I have had no problems since. Removing the degas cap will give the built up pressure a place to escape easily and allow a gas pocket to be pushed out of the system.

The grounding showed that the gage still works. If it was working before, clean and re-install the old sensor unless you think you broke it trying to remove it but that would be hard to do.

[spaceballs]

I replaced the sender from O-Reilly with a Ford part. Problem solved. Man...this water pump looks cool. Who would not do this mod?

[BlueMule]

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Man...this water pump looks cool.

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So where's the pictures?..................