A few months ago my keyless entry got to the point that I would need to push the button more than once to get the doors unlocked. I figured that it was probably the battery. It would sometimes just off while I was in the house and when it did it was hell getting it to stop. I decided to just take the fuse out that and said the heck with it. Now I dont have a door key so I would like to get it going again. Now even with new batteries nothing happens when I press the buttons. How can I tell if the remote is the problem or where do I begin trouble shooting?
not trying to be a smartass (in the donkey term), but did you put the fuse back in that you took out?
I am sure your more truck smart than I am, but I find myself in those situations more often than not. Most be old age creepin up on me [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]
Sonny
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2006 4 door swb dodge cummins all stock
* SOLD * 1997 F-250 PSD Ex-Cab 4x4
280,000 miles
4" lift - 35" BFG AT , Vault keyless entry,
3" Performance Parts DP w/CAT & muff delete,
FPR shim
You have a seperate key for your door? I thought they had done away with that by '95. On my '80, I had the key ground on one side for the door and the other side for the ignition. (to make the best of a bad situation).
But I would guess the fob is your culprit. Or, if you hit the unlock button twice, do any other doors unlock? In that case it would be your actuator on the drivers door.
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Had the exact same problem on a friends 95'. On his it was the keyless entry's control module, located under the dash right in the middle. Might be your problem?????
LOL! No the fuse is in and the anti theft light on the dash works so I am pretty sure that its armed. The power door locks work if that means anything.
Same key does the door and the ignition, problem is that the key is broke off in the ignition. Whats a fob? Im thinking its probably the remote but I have no way of knowing if its emiting a signal or not.
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I have to be real close to the truck to lock/unlock...
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Sounds like your battery (in the fob)is weak. Signal strength goes down as battery gets weak, which cuts down on the distance it'll work.
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2000 Jeep Wrangler Sahara Edition, white w/tan top & interier, 119,000 miles, 4.0L, auto, loaded.....no mods, yet!
A long time. It worked back a few months ago but it got weaker and weaker along with that the damn thing would just go off sometimes so I pulled the fuse. Now I would like for it to work again but it doesnt. The power doors work and the theft light come on. Can you program a fob from another keyless product to work with mine? My grandfather has two new fobs that he doesnt use.
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Can you program a fob from another keyless product to work with mine? My grandfather has two new fobs that he doesnt use.
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Mozz ... here is a question. How many fobs do you have? If it's only one are you sure it's the original.
to answer you question above the answer is yes. A good rule of thumb is to look at the fob at the FCC # if it matches your good. Some will work even though the FCC # doesn't match.
You can always put your keyless in program mode and try to add the fob or fobs you have back to it.
If you need to know how : ( do this with the doors shut and all locks up.
1. cycle the key from off to on 7 times leaving it in the on position on the 7th.
2. If your keyless module is working right it should cycle the door locks down then up.
3. this lets you know the module is ready to receive a new fob signal. Press the lock button on your fob. If the module is receiving a signal it'll cycle the locks again.
4. press the lock button on all additional fobs you have. I'm not sure on the limit on the old ones. It's either 4 or 7 can't remember.
5. when you're done. Turn off the ignition.
If the locks don't cycle when you press your fob button something is not working right. Hope this helps.
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XL SuperCab, LWB, 4X4, 204,000 miles, E4OD, 4.10 LS(when it wants to be!), body lift, 305-70-16 Cooper STT's on 10" Eagle Alloy wheels, "Brand X"-inspired home-made open-element air filter, 3" downpipe & 4" straight pipe with 5" stainless tip exiting in front of the rear wheel, 6 pos. TS Performance chip (going to visit T. Wildman soon, I hope), FPR mod, A/C mod, MileMarker manuals, onboard air (York running off the alternator...1 five gallon tank) with dual Grover air horns
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