Help!!
My truck is at the dealership with what I thought was tranny issues. It is acting the same way it did a couple of years ago before tranny failed. Dealer has run $255.00 worth of diagnostics and has determined that the tranny is o.k. but the turbo and pedestal and some type of valve is bad.Some $2700.00 dollars worth. This is not something a few o-rings and a couple of hours work would cure is it? What can cause low turbo boost? Dealer says it is only putting out 3 lbs. Will this damage anything if I keep driving it like it is? I can not really afford to spend $2700.00 dollars right now. Any info would be greatly appreciated. e-mail me at jalgarn@comcast.net
I know oil has a lot to do with turbo is there any way the 80 20 bio that I am running could effect the turbo? I am going to the dealership today to pick up my truck. I am going to do more research. Any info or links would be appreciated.
Thanks,
vwsrule
I would check your catalitic converter. Could be plugged causing low exhaust flow and low boost. I am by no means an expert here but sounds reasonable to me. And I would imagine you could check it by unbolting temporarily to see if it fixes the problem. I like to do the free tests first. May want to ask some others first though to make sure this wont cause an issue. Good luck.
Check Fuel Pressure ,exhaust restrictions like EBPV to see if it remains open , soot around up-pipes , and all Intake (post Turbo) connections are tight. Map sensor is like 130 bucks. New Turbo should be less than 1000 for stock and up to 3000 plus for a BB Turbo like H2E or the like. I would check that first . Do you have a boost guage ? The truck has to be under load for it to show true numbers. It should be around 14-17 psi for a stock unit at WOT . Maybe your Impeller wheel is a little dusted. they are only like 100 bucks . . .The dealer is attempting sodomy.
__________________
95 E350 PSD HD Cargo , BB shim , E4OD , B&M aluminium Trans pan , HD cooler , 3:55 D70FF, Michelin LTX " E "
Not installed yet DP flashed PCM (60 Tow )Autometer Triple Pillar Guage pod ,New Injector O-rings /IPR /lift pump /filterbowl @ 235K
1977 F350 Dually Dump , 460 , 429 POLICE heads , 4:56 D70FF, Edelbrock Intake , Holley 850 dbl pmper ,MSD IGN , Custom HiPo C-6 Trans , Dual Exhausts , Bridgestone "E" Tires
1983 KZ1000R , Yoshimura Stage I
1982 KZ1000 , 1045 Wiseco , Turbo ready
1990 KX500
VWS, take off the clamp that holds the downpipe to the turbo, look inside and see if the Exhaust Backpressure Valve(EBPV) is fully open, it should be. It could have malfunctioned and become stuck closed. Also check the orange intake boots that go from the turbo into the intake plenums, Inspect them very closely and feel around them rips or tears. Make sure there are no restrictions in the intake and exhaust.
If you still haven't found the problem, pull off the intake tube and spin the impeller wheel inside the turbo. Move it in and out and up and down, it should have VERY LITTLE play in it. It should not touch the turbo housing when you move it up and down or side to side. If that's not it, unbolt the two bolts that hold the exhaust pipe to the catalytic converter and seperate the two pipes. Just let them hang there and take it for a drive, this will tell you if the converter is plugged. Check these things and keep us updated, there are more things to check if one of these is not your problem.
Dave
__________________
1997 F250 HD 4x4 5speed Reg Cab, 4" MBRP exhaust, 1.0 turbo housing, Tymar Intake , 17* HPOP,Swamps 150cc, TW 4 position chip, Dana 60 w/RSK, Crossover steering, sittin on 35's
Thanks to all who have replied. Thanks to those of you that have called. I really appreciate your efforts and advise. The problem was The ebpv was stuck closed. I opened it up manually, tied it off, and have been running it since. The truck performed better immediately. 60% but the more I run it the better it is getting. I guess I am close to 90% now . I am still going to repair it properly, but at least it is nice to know that baling wire will still get one going in a pinch!
Again, Many thanks. I will be lurking,learning and maybe someday helping.
vwsrule
Kevin
Thanks for the update! Good deal man. Can't beat a free fix, sure sounds better than the dealership's price.
You can take that valve completely out. Mine is removed. Just do a search on here and I am sure you can find a how to post on it. That is what I did but it has been a couple years so I can't remember the details. Basically you knock out the pin holding in the butterfly then tap the hole and plug it.
Good luck!
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.