Major Oil Leak? Main-iac?

[snow shredder]

Have '97 F250.. 200,000 miles. Engine runs great. I have only had for 300miles now. So Driving on the highway the other day, stop for fuel. Spot a ton of oil pouring out aroung the bellhousing... picture a coffee pot brewing coffee... just puring out with the truck off. So I fill it up a gallon worth of oil. Drive home, at about 55 60... almost 20 miles.. get home same thing. Oil just pouring out around the behousing. Let it drain till it stops... about 15mins after I parked it. Turns out it was almost 2 gallons low this time.

Fast forward to the next nite... pulled off all the hpop lines. Found one bad o-ring... And a rag stuffed in the intake under the fuel filter! Clearly this has been a problem for the last guy. Though there was a small amount of oil leaking in the front of the engine from this. Anyway, I removed the turbo thinking maybe that was cracked... as the pedestal is washed with oil in one spot and looks very clean. But the o-rings where in good shape, and do not appear to have been leaking. I didn't see any cracks in either the turbo or the pedestal.
So Here's the 5 hour headache question... I have heard so much about how the rear mains never, never leak... Then why would it continue to leak after it has been parked for almost 20mins?

Somebody every had their rear main go? I am 24 hours from pulling this engine... and just resealing everything I can. Please I would love some imput!

[Patrick Feeley]

Welcome to the forum! Are you sure it's the rear main? If you had a bad HPOP hose connection o-ring, oil will puddle in the valley and run down the backside of the motor (in great volume ... there's a nice "drain path" on the passenger side of the valley). Mine left a nice 5-mile trail when one of my HPOP o-rings blew. There's also the big High Pressure Oil Rail End Pligs on the ends of each head (forward and rear ends). They are the one that have a 1/2" square-drive recess in them and are known to leak. Cheers!

[snow shredder]

Hey thanx... Yes I checked the oil galley plugs in the ends of the heads. They where dry. The actuator for the waste gate might have been leaking. But the turbo housing looks so clean I wonder if it's due for a rebuild. It was a total nitemare to remove the turbo.. as It is my first time working on this. I am unsure I will be able to get it back on. And If I get it all back together, and the rear main or the turbo is leaking... I will be hell bent....
The thing that worries me... is how much oil was pouring out, with the truck not running...

[RD97]

Did you try starting it again after you replaced the damaged o-ring on the HPOP line? The oil in there can run upwards of 3000psi, so depending on the location and severity of the leak, it could spray a good distance and a good volume. Either way, it would probably be a good idea to spray the whole thing down with simple green, let it soak, then gently hose it off. Hopefully that will make the leak will stand out more clearly.

On edit: when you pour rinse water into the valley, watch how it drips out of the flywheel inspection housing. It just might show the same prolonged dripping pattern that you're seeing right now with the oil.

[snow shredder]

See that's my biggest concern... oil is not just dripping off the bottom of the belhousing... It is pouring out, like a coffee maker percolating into the pot. THis is why I wonder... if when the rear main is super hot, it just let's it pour right out, till it cools off a little.
I have lost many of hairs working on all my old Fords, however this one just might me my doom, chrome!

Thanx for the replys... always looking to hear what anyone has to offer.

[NORTHRIVER1]

sometimes the flywheel or torq.conv cover rubs through the oil pan below rear main and will continue to leak after engine off...lots of oil....if thats the case engine has to come out

[snow shredder]

Thanx NorthRiver.... I really wished I lived up your way! I love riding in BC!

So took the turbo to the guys at the diesel shop today... everyone seems to think the bearing case is leaking.. and there is alot of play in the turbo shaft, two bent fins on banks wheel. I seen Ron's turbo on Ebay... talked with him on the phone. He stated these bearing cases are known for cracking on the older turbos. He sells a newer thicker one for $88. Asked him about rebuild kit... MMmm I think I would much rather pay for a new one or rebuilt. Called the dealer with My dealer discount... they want $720 or $740... marked down form $1200 retail! Ron wants $550 for a stock rebuild. I am pondering the idea of a rebuild from a guy 1200 miles away from me. Found a local shop online tonight, calling them tomorrow.
Got my list made... valley pan gasket, front seal, rear main, new galley plugs with o-rings, International caulk, actuator rebuild kit. Calling International tomorrow... Just need a Book already for this engine.... Don't want to get one from them, Ford says 2 weeks back order. Pulling Engine tomorrow... I need this rig running strong all winter long and I am tired of wrenching on it!
Let's see how this all goes....

[NORTHRIVER1]

get her fixed thers a lot of good powder already to burn up here ,yama dealer said good 5 feet up leachin mountain....sorry off topic just excited

[speeddemon31176]

If your gonna yank the motor you might as well do a compression check and see if it needs a re-ring. Might as well do it now while it is out rather than yank it again.