Well, while i was under the truck today taking out the starter i decided i would replace the transmission and transfer case fluid. As soon as i saw the fill bolt, i changed my mind. Stripped pretty bad. Should i just fill though the shifter? If so how much fluid should i put in?
Any other tips?
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96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hub: 314,000 miles
Compared to the hex plug on the left side of the transmission it's a lot of messing around to remove the shifter boot and take the top plate off the transmission, but YES, you can add fluid that way, in fact many people recommend it because you can slightly over-fill your transmission.
My Factory HELM service manual says the ZF-5 takes 3.4 quarts of synthetic ATF, Mercron E6AZ-19582-B or equivalent meeting spec #ESR-M2C 163-A2. But I know some guys have put a full four quarts in them
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Denny
'96 F-250 Reg. Cab 4X4 5-sp POWERSTROKE
298,500 mi & NO Problems, LUK Clutch
well, if i could get the hex plug out i would love to fill it there . Just went and got a 22mm 6 point, but i am gonna bet it is too stripped to remove with it.
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96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hub: 314,000 miles
You may need a pipe wrench that will lock onto the bolt head or you may try some heat. Then once you get it out you can always weld a large nut onto the bolt head to help you in the future.
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96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
the other option (if it is pipe thread) is to go to the hardware store and get a new plug. i had to do this on my NISSAN. cheaper than buying a new plug.
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1999 f350 7.3 6spd; 243k miles no mods
new timing cover
K&N air filter
replaced injectors
new HPOP
new ecm & idm
Last edited by tickedoff36; 01-06-2013 at 06:10 PM.
Well, could not get the plug out with heat and pipe wrench (hard to get a good grab on it.) Ended up draining and filling through the shifter which was pretty easy and not near as messy as what i did filling up the transfer case . The house smells like ATF and my wife is not so happy with me
How many miles do you usually go before replacing tranny fluid again?
Ran out of time to do the differentials. I assume i have to pull the plate on the rear in order to drain? What about the front? How the heck to you guys fill these through the fill holes without making a horrible mess????
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96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hub: 314,000 miles
How the heck to you guys fill these through the fill holes without making a horrible mess????
I use a transfer pump. Cheesy plastic affair that I got for about $10 at the parts store. Has a suction hose and a discharge hose. It will suck out of the jug, but with quart bottles, I usually wind up knocking the bottle over and make a mess anyway, because it takes 2 hands to pump it. Last time I filled my tranny, I used gallon jugs which stayed upright better. As soon as it started running out of the fill hole, I removed the hose, stuck it in the jug and slapped the plug in place. Only got a couple of drips on the ground.
A plunger type pump that attaches to the bottle would be better, but lots of the bottles have different threads, so unless they come with bottle thread adapters, they aren't going to work with every brand of lube.
As far as the stripped plug, I took a bolt and welded the threaded end to the stripped plug then used a wrench on it...worked perfectly. For filling t-case and trans I used the lid of a diff oil can, the pointed ones that you cut the tip off, they fit the trans oil cans. In some cases, I'll put a piece of hose of that lid (gotta do that while lid is dry not oily), that way the bottle can be placed in such a way, it can be squeezed easier.
For the diff's, the covers will have to be taken off. No drain plugs. Good time to do an inspection on gears and stuff while the cover is off. Also you can use a rag to clean out the bottom of diff...any metal will/can settle there.
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2005 F-350 CC, LB, 4x4, Dually, 6.0 Powerstroke, Torqueshift, 4:10 Gears. Gooseneck and rear pull hitches. "Truck Covers USA" roll up aluminum tonneau cover. Putco Boss Running Boards. Aluminum finned diff covers. Bilstein HD shocks. ProComp steering stabilizer. XRF ball joints. NC Hornet CCV mod. RCD egr delete kit. AirDog fuel system. Strictly Diesel's regulated fuel and coolant return lines kits. Amsoil oil bypass (by NUC Motorsports) and homebuilt coolant bypass kits. CFM intake elbow. ARP head studs with factory gaskets and all upgrades. MBRP 304SS "Cool Dual" exhaust system. SCT Livewire tuner with pyrometer. Autometer 'A' pillar gauges (Boost/Trans temp/Pyrometer/Fuel Pressure). 850 CCA Motorcraft Batteries. Using Rotella T-6 synthetic oil. Upgraded degas tank and cap. Hayes deep aluminum trans pan. GoGo Diesel modified direct clutch solenoid. Retro Solutions HID head and fog lights. High idle mod. Jimmi-Jammers. Many other custom features.
the other option (if it is pipe thread) is to go to the hardware store and get a new plug. i had to do this on my NISSAN. cheaper than buying a new plug.
Definitely NOT an NPT thread, it's a straight metric machine screw thread that seals with a soft aluminum or copper washer on the hex plug.
DIRTYB15 - changing the oil in the frt diff will be a challange, no drain plug and the diff case bolts to the one twin traction beam stamping. Most here have drilled a hole on a cast-in flat surface on the bottom of the diff housing, then tapped 1/4" or 3/8" NPT threads and installed their own plug. Rinse the housing out good before installing the plug in the new threads and adding the new oil.
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Denny
'96 F-250 Reg. Cab 4X4 5-sp POWERSTROKE
298,500 mi & NO Problems, LUK Clutch
Thanks guys, i may try using the pump and see how much i can get out that way. If you dont mind bugman, any chance you could email me that write up? (Or at least a picture showing where they put the drain hole in case i decide to go that route?)
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96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hub: 314,000 miles
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