Hey guys, I am going to install my IC next weekend, and remember there being some kinda mod where it would re-direct oil away from the IC, or something like that?? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
Thanks
-Matt
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'97 F-350 CC/LB 7.3L PSD 4x4 4.10's, ~111K miles/ 5" Turnout Stacks, Isspro EV Guages, 7.3 IC, gutted stock fan- w/ single electric fan, Stage 3 DIY Hybrids, Bad Boy RacerX Tranny built by me, headstuds, 910s, pushrods, 17* pump, 3" intakes, H2E, Tunes from Tony
You can try a search on CCV Mod or similar. Some guys just rotate the CCV 180 degrees and route a hose to the rear of the truck (or just down towards the ground). Cheers!
I did this mod a couple year ago. You will need to plug the hole in the aluminum intake housing that hooks up to the orange intake hose. I did this by throwing it away! That old housing necks down the intake to fit the orange hose. Get yourself a black superduty intake hose to replace the orange one. It's tapered down from 4", so you can use a short piece of 4" exhaust tubing to replace the thrown out aluminum housing. The black tube doesn't rip apart like the orange ones do, either.
I found it easier to route the line from the ccv by leaving the ccv nozzle pointing forward, hooking up fuel-rated line (I forget if it's 1" or 3/4") and running it up and over the top of your new intake setup, then down to the frame under the driver. This big loop in the line keeps you from needing to kink it, plus I think it allows some of the oil vapors to collect in the loop and run back down into the ccv unit. I originally ran it back to a position under the rear seat to move the nasty smell away from me and had it drip in a soup can. I started getting some small oil leaks, though, and was worried about a possible low spot in the line that could collect oil and create a restriction to the air flow, so I cut the hose off in front of the driver's seat, as soon as it hits its lowest point. There's no room to mount a drain can there, so I just let it drip. It makes some of the underside oily, but I've never seen a drip actually collect on the shop floor. I'd like a better way to get rid of the stink, but don't know how to do it without risking restrictions and excessive crankcase pressure.
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Joe
97 F350 4x4 CC 3.55, BTS Tranny, Banks Intercooler, Hypermax Stage I injectors, DieselPower Custom chip, late model HPOP, JoeServo IDM, Hx hose, TYMAR Intake, gutted EBPV, homemade TC Lockup and AIC, CCV mod, Truecool MAX cooler, Air Bags and Horns, Edlebrock IAS shocks, TYMAR 3"-4" downpipe, 4" exhaust, AMSOIL dual bypass filters.
362 HP
__________________ The Trash Truck
96 CC F350 SRW - Built for SVO and mileage
Go Green - HotFox, Dual Heated Dahl 100s, Fuel Filter Coolant Wrap, ArcticFox
Go Fast - Hybrids, H2E, 6.0 IC, Fuelab, BTS
thanx go to
Rockin-S-Performance - Install, tech support, and advice Diesel Innovations - Killer Deal on Parts Tony Wildman - Tuning
When I did mine I turned the Crank Case Ventilation breather 180 degrees so the outlet faces the firewall. Using the existing elbow I connected (think 3/4") heater hose and ran it up over the brake booster housing (so any oil would drain back to head) then down to the inside frame rail and it exits just infront of the front tank. I cut the end of the hose (exit end) at a 45 degree. Heater hose may not be your best bet as it breaks down over time, but it is inexpensive and easy to replace. If you run the stock aluminum intake housing you will have to plug it. I removed the inlet and fashioned an aluminum plug (from sheet aluminum) and replaced the intake (CCV) tube using the for mentioned plug held in with the stock metal screw and some RTV to seal. Later when my Orange intake boot was finished, I deleted the formentional altogether and just run 4" exhaust to the new black turbo boot.
sorry not pix....
jrc
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97 XLT F250 CC ZF-5 (now ) DIY short shifter 355's D60 air locked T Wildman files, 'jectors, SD Hpop, DIY E-fans, IC, DP 4" exhaust, SS resonator, RSK, SD springs all corners, Velvet rides, Custom Aluminum Drybox/fuel tank, air bags, E-air compressor, VisionX HID/LED's, E fuel, F26D rear tank, E-fan Tranny oil cooler. http://community.webshots.com/user/jcart44
As you see, many of us have done this mod. The important thing to remember is to never allow the line to dip below the ccv and then climb back up taller than the ccv, like a "P-trap" for example. This is because the crankcase is positive ventilation, furthermore, the turbo's oil supply is pressurized but the oil drains out of the turbo by gravity. If the ccv is plugged or restricted (by a dip in the line) this will negativly effect the turbo's ability to cycle lube oil.
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Randy
Midnight black '94 * F-250 * 4x4 * ZF-5 * 3:55 * cc/lwb * RDS Single Shot Stage I's* TDP 6pos chip * BDP electric fuel * BDP D-66 Turbo * IDM Mod * Hypermax 3x4" dp * Authentic Tymar intake* 7.3 Intercooler * gutted ebpv * 4" exhaust & 5" tip * LUK clutch * A-pillar pod w/ Auto Meter NV boost, pyro and water temp gauges * reverse dash lighting and hvac controls * Optima yellow top batts D75/25, both on the right side * HPO X-over mod * manually controlled gp's * cruise control mod * add-a-leaf (front) * AC mod
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) DIY short shifter 355's D60 air locked T Wildman files, 'jectors, SD Hpop, DIY E-fans, IC, DP 4" exhaust, SS resonator, RSK, SD springs all corners, Velvet rides, Custom Aluminum Drybox/fuel tank, air bags, E-air compressor, VisionX HID/LED's, E fuel, F26D rear tank, E-fan Tranny oil cooler. 
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