New Starter.. started, ran, died...

[Rockdog97]

was having issues that past week with the truck not starting.. did the new fuel filter, tested to see if fuel came out of the valve, etc.

Replaced the starter today with one recommended on this board - one from DB Electric.

Truck had a hard time starting but then fired up.. would lug...then die. Finally got it idling enough and took it on a 2 mile trip.. seemed to be ok.
got home and was letting the truck idle in the street while I cleaned up the drive way... then it died...

Started it back up.. went back to clearing the driveway and it died again.

It would start, then run for about 30 sec, then die. could do this for 3 times, now it wont start AT ALL.. cranks and cranks..

speaking of cranking, it seems the new High Torque starter really spins.. but it wont fire...

Any suggestions?

The only thing I did between the last time it died and this last time (in the span of about 15 minutes) was clean up some battery acid spillage from my batteries using baking soda/water.. this was on the frame rail, etc. hosed the inside off with a light spray...

Then when I went to start it, it would just crank and crank and crank..

I dont have much knowledge about trucks, codes, etc.. just to ya all know...

[Rockdog97]

I was able to pull the following codes:

P0472 - Exhaust back pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0341 - Camshaft Pos. Sensor Circuit Per (bank1/1 Sensor)
P0603 - Internal Ctrl Mod KAM error
P0344 - Camshaft Pos. Sensor Circuit Intermittent (bank1/1 Sensor)
P0340 - Camshaft Pos. Sensor Circuit error (bank1/1 Sensor)

any idea on a solution to/for these codes?

[angst]

If baking soda laden water got inside the cell of the batteries it could ruin them by neutralizing the acid but I don't think that really fits with your symptoms of starting then dying.
The back pressure code can trip from things like disconnecting the electrical plug to it. I can't think of anything related to it that would stop an engine that is already running. This code usually goes away when you clear with a reader or unhook the batteries for a while. (or take the whole backpressure valve out )
Those crank position codes are not any that I have heard about false positives on and youv'e got 3 or 4 of em. Seems like a logical first place to start. CPS's are pretty notorious in these trucks.

[Rockdog97]

Replaced the CPS with a ford factory one ($27 not bad).. still no start.
the HPOP is full of oil, fuel is discharged from the schrader valve when cranking, but no ignition. after a couple battery disconnects,, etc, I keep getting the following codes:

P0472
P0340
P0603

I replaced the new CPS with the old one and no go.

btw, the new CPS was different than the old one. The 'sensor' part of the new one was a smaller diameter. not sure if this matters or not.

Checked the fuses, they all are good...

[speeddemon31176]

Put the new CPS sensor back in and disconnect the batteries for a few minutes and put your key in the ignition and turn the key like you would try to start the truck then hook your batteries back up and try and start it. Disconnecting the batteries and attempting to start it drains all residual power from the capacitors inside the PCM and erases all memory. See if that works.

[SKYGRABBER]

would that be different from clearing the codes?

[speeddemon31176]

Yes it is different as when clearing the codes, all you are doing is clearing saved codes that are stored in memory. When you completely disconnect power from the pcm it clears all previously learned parameters of the various sensor and will relearn everything upon starting the truck and running it. Just try it. What is the harm in a possible free fix?

[SKYGRABBER]

tried it still no start im trying doing the uvch right now